JohnRaven

Alright, so I figured I'd start a new thread after my plugs and wires thread....

NEW: NGK Iridium IX plugs
NEW: NGK Premium Wires

Now, I had trouble getting it started after the new plugs and wires... but I eventually did.

The truck now runs like CRAP... Really rough idle, no power at all... The engine sounds crappy, and its sucking gas like there's no tomorrow!

The only thing I've really messed with is the distributor timing. I've turned it back and fourth a little bit while the engine was running, but all it seemed to do was adjust the idle... The engine didn't really sound different, just idled lower.

someone said I should test it with a timing light? I think my dad has one, but where do I connect it? The ignition coil? the distributor?

Could I not be running on all cylinders or what? I'm really at a loss at what this could be.... All I have done is change the plugs and wires, and mess with the distributor timing, that's it.... and now its running terrible.... Whats the deal!

You guys have been great so far, and this forum is a GREAT source of information, but I really need to get this solved. This is my FIRST and ONLY vehicle, so it needs to be running in tip top shape....

Any help appreciated!

aviator

Check and make sure the spark plug wires are connected correctly and not hooked up out of order. It sounds like that is your problem and it is a very easy boo boo to make [don't ask me how I know]...

JohnRaven

Yeah, that seems like the problem too, but I don't think it is.... but I'll check it tomorrow anyway...

thook

Are the spark cables not labeled for the corresponding cylinders? Both NGK sets....for my '86 and my '92....are. Then, there's the matter of the distributor cap and having them on the proper terminals there. Aviator has a good point.

JohnRaven

Yeah, they were labeled....Incorrectly though lol.

#5 wire was too short, and #3 was too long....so I just switched them. AND I switched them on the distributor too....

thook

Well, as long as the right distributor terminal is connected to the right cylinder you're okay. So, double check them and be definite.

Also, are you sure the gap on the plugs is correct? Was the rotor in good shape? How was the vehicle running before new plugs and wires?

JohnRaven

I didn't gap the plugs, #1, they looked alright. (bad way to check, I know) and #2, my manual says the plugs should be at 0.31 and my NGK plugs are supposed to be 0.32

From what I've heard/read, that should be close enough....

The truck was running pretty good before I changed the plugs and wires...Decent power (for a 3.0...) and it idled Okay... its much worse now...

ggardner

I am having the exact same problem, only on a 22RE. I recently replaced my plugs and wires with an NGK set and after about a week my truck runs rough and gets about 7 mpg. I'm in the middle of replacing just about everything on the truck and it's driving me nuts.

Gabe

MonsterMaxx

Let's take this in bites.
You wasted your money on those plugs. I have yet to see anyone with data proving that that kind of plug will make any difference on one of these old low compression smog motors. These plugs are designed to last in very modern high compression engines that can go 100,000 mi on a plug and not crud it up. These old smog motors just can't do that. No matter what plug you put in there it'll be crudy in 30,000.
Even if you can get one HP or two you'll never feel it, though you can improve performance you can feel by using a larger gap with a hotter ignition. Like Jacobs claims to be, but I was never able to find a difference. I run mine gapped a little bigger and indexed but not huge gap increase and run a good ol AC plug (I forget the # but it’ll be in the chart in the store – just look it up).

If it’s running that badly you shuoldn’t be driving it far enough to get measurements on MPG.
I’m betting you crossed a plug wire. You need to check this carefully. The cap is labled and the engine is #1 on the pass front, followed by #3 and #5. Drivers of course is #2, #4, #6.
Follow your wires. Do it twice. Know it’s right.

Always gap your plugs. Even if it’s one of the ninty nine cent wedge ones.

Yes, turning the distributor will increase and decrease the idle. Giving more advance will increase idle, up to some point where it’ll peak, then fall off. Find the peak and back off a little. That’s a good ‘by ear’ powertune. Of course if you hear detonation or pinging under a load, back off of the advance. Running premium gas w/ this much advance is a real good idea. My truck runs like crap on regular, but it likes premium.

Yes, use a timing light is a nice tool. I like the ones with a dial on them. A little white out on the balancer mark and your good to go.

I normally tune it by ear then check w/ timing light just to see where it ended up and even if they are very advanced from ‘stock’ I leave them alone and they run good (mine’s at 28deg). Probably won’t pass a smog test. I think it’s high nox.

Good luck.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Interesting opinions on using Iridium plugs. I know a few have recommended/use them on there 3.4's, 3.0's and 22re's and never heard of any negative effects.
I'd agree they wont make a noticeable economy or power difference but I'd argue they were designed for longevity and it's been proven they do create a more efficient spark resulting in lower voltage requirements. If they could possibly extend the life of a starter, battery, and/or wires then whats not to like about them?
Not sure what you mean by "old smog motors". Providing it's operating as it should, any modern engine can benefit from them. ALL spark plugs do the same thing, Iridium plugs just do it better. Theres also no data saying Iridium is meant for newer engines. Manufactures wanted these plugs to offer 100K+ maintenance schedules and they've been using them since the mid 90's.

I haven't ran Iridium plugs in my Toyota's but do have them in my Integra. The OEM plugs were still almost new but after the change, I noticed a smoother idle and instant start where as before it had a 1-2 second delay. Definitely worth the extra money.

JohnRaven,
You shouldn't have to gap those plugs. If all your number of connections are correct, then you might have a defective wire or improperly seated/torqued plugs...it's more common than most people think and can cause exactly what you described.
If you still have your old wires, try swapping out one at a time and see if anything changes. If nothing improves after the last wire, then you know it's the plug(s) or the timing.

JohnRaven

Well, I don't know what it was, but shes running good now. I'm thinking I didnt have a good enough connection on wire/cylinder #5... Oh well, shes running much better now. I need to adjust my timing a little bit more, but at least my power is back! thanks guys!

I appreciate all the advice and the time everyone has spent reading this thread. Definitely the best 'Vehicle' forum I have ever been on. THANKS!

infiltrator

Yeah I have Irridium's too and I think I can notice the smoothness of it. Could just be in my head.

I put them in my girlfriends car, and I think its pinging. I have to check the gap's even though they are pregapped, maybe they messed up or gave us the wrong plugs or something...

She has the gasket type, so it took 5 minutes to change... I used some wd40 on the threads as recommended by my dad long time ago..

aviator

No worries my son, be at peace, accept the blessings of the Tarhanian gods, go forth and miswire no more...

[for clarification of "Tarhanian gods" the toyota trucks made in Japan are built at the Tarhana assembly plant lol]

leebee

aviator, youre my hero!

lee