marlin brake upgrade question
#1
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
marlin brake upgrade question
I am so happy with the marlin hd clutch, that I trust marlin w/a lot. my brakes need doing and I checked out their site again. they have good support for 2nd gens I like that.
my question is whether I am choosing the right parts for the job- and whether I am missing anything.
for now I am going to stick with my stock calipers and rotors, this is just a refresh not a whole rebuild.
any advice or warnings most appreciated
PS. is there any way to refresh the rear drum brakes? what do I need for that.
FJ-80 Brake Master Cylinder
Hilux Braided brake lines
semi-metallic brake pads.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/brakes.htm
my question is whether I am choosing the right parts for the job- and whether I am missing anything.
for now I am going to stick with my stock calipers and rotors, this is just a refresh not a whole rebuild.
any advice or warnings most appreciated
PS. is there any way to refresh the rear drum brakes? what do I need for that.
FJ-80 Brake Master Cylinder
Hilux Braided brake lines
semi-metallic brake pads.
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/brakes.htm
Last edited by taikowaza; 05-14-2008 at 11:42 AM.
#5
Contributing Member
Why the need for a new LC master cylinder?
Maybe upgrading to disc brakes for the rear??
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...c-swap-107749/
Maybe upgrading to disc brakes for the rear??
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...c-swap-107749/
#6
Registered User
Check your drums for a "lip" which results when the drum wears (on the inside of course) from contact with the brake shoes. If you have a lip take your drums to be machined or buy new drums.
Unless the MC is broken it is probably not worth changing.
Unless the MC is broken it is probably not worth changing.
#7
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tim.... any reason why you want new brakes. your rears looked fine, since those shoes weren't all that old.. if anything i would do the front pads and maybe have the rotors turned.
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#9
Rear drums generally last forever, so unless the shoes are worn don't worry about them. If you really want, take some 400 grit sandpaper and lightly scuff the glaze off the shoes. If you ever go through water, it would be a good idea to take the rear apart and put a light coat of white lithium grease or antiseize on all the contact points (auto adjuster threads, where the auto adjuster contacts the shoes, e-brake arm pivot, shoe anchor, shoe contact pads on the backing plate, etc)
#10
Contributing Member
Thread Starter
Thanks guys! Thanks Dudebud the reason I'm concerned about the brakes is that on the way to seatac I had to stop quickly, and I had some (what I think is called) fade in the brakes, it wasn't responsive and I felt like I had to pump them to get the stop I needed, luckily I was not following to closely b/c that extra time would have been BAD. So I felt that a refresh would be in order...
Dudebud thanks for telling me about the rear shoe condition! That was when you repaired those backing plates for me! (wow thanks again for that you totally saved me from the fiasco when the guys lifted my truck by the backing plates).
I ordered the front pads from marlin yesterday and I'm sure they will ROCK just like his clutch does.
I didn't order the braided brake lines as I am not yet sure if I need them...
good call on replacing the front pads and having the rotors turned! this is what I'll start with. Master Cylinder still looks good, so thanks Elvota for the heads up on FJ80 m/c=disc conversion.
so far only spent $40 on the pads from marlin (both axles). just to have a nice even refresh I might get rear shoes also and combined with turning the rotors this will most prob. take care of the issues!
Wabbit's advice was spot on: his advice was: "You probably just need new pads (front) and shoes (rear) and the rear adjusted. Brakes are pretty simple realistically. Also it never hurts to flush the system as the brake fluid you have in there is probably as old as your truck.
thanks everybody I just saved a lot of money. final question, those marlin brake lines, worth it?
they're waiting on shipping the pads until I decide. if it's not a good investment I'll just cancel that part of the order and get the pads on their way.
Dudebud thanks for telling me about the rear shoe condition! That was when you repaired those backing plates for me! (wow thanks again for that you totally saved me from the fiasco when the guys lifted my truck by the backing plates).
I ordered the front pads from marlin yesterday and I'm sure they will ROCK just like his clutch does.
I didn't order the braided brake lines as I am not yet sure if I need them...
good call on replacing the front pads and having the rotors turned! this is what I'll start with. Master Cylinder still looks good, so thanks Elvota for the heads up on FJ80 m/c=disc conversion.
so far only spent $40 on the pads from marlin (both axles). just to have a nice even refresh I might get rear shoes also and combined with turning the rotors this will most prob. take care of the issues!
Wabbit's advice was spot on: his advice was: "You probably just need new pads (front) and shoes (rear) and the rear adjusted. Brakes are pretty simple realistically. Also it never hurts to flush the system as the brake fluid you have in there is probably as old as your truck.
thanks everybody I just saved a lot of money. final question, those marlin brake lines, worth it?
they're waiting on shipping the pads until I decide. if it's not a good investment I'll just cancel that part of the order and get the pads on their way.
#12
Registered User
#13
Registered User
If you want to improve pedal feel the first step is flushing the brake lines. If the fluid is old (or never changed) you will notice the improvement. Brake fluid maintenance is probably the most important maintenance item that most people never do.
2nd step is to adjust the rear drums.
2nd step is to adjust the rear drums.
Last edited by PCE91V64x4; 05-15-2008 at 09:13 AM.
#14
Registered User
If you park the truck at the trail head - critters (marmots etc) like to chew on the rubber lines becuase here onthe East Coast they are coated in road salt.... thus leving the rubber lines with holes.. (or so I have heard)...
SS lines tend to feel "firmer". - and look bling.
SS lines tend to feel "firmer". - and look bling.
#15
Registered User
If you park the truck at the trail head - critters (marmots etc) like to chew on the rubber lines becuase here onthe East Coast they are coated in road salt.... thus leving the rubber lines with holes.. (or so I have heard)...
SS lines tend to feel "firmer". - and look bling.
SS lines tend to feel "firmer". - and look bling.
Also, the SS lines don't feel any firmer than rubber lines, assuming that the rubber lines are in ok condition. Modern day rubber lines don't expand a bit under the pressures that they see in any application that you're likely to run them in.
There are quite a few reports of the SS lines failing BTW. Search around some on the web.
We also use rubber, and if we need longer ones, because of lifting, we simply get longer rubber lines made up.
Fred
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