Jipopotamo

Ok guys I'll try to condense as much as possible.

1987 4Runner 4cyl 5-spd EFI
was running in stable and reliable condition before these projects
no major issues

Installed:
ENGN BLDR Torker Cam
ENGN BLDR HD Timing Kit
90 Amp Stator kit for stock alt (stator, brushes, regulator, rectifier, etc.


I had the engine all the way down to the block, did my work, everything went smoothly, reassembly went well. No left over bolts, no unplugged wires, no questions. I had no doubt in my mind that I would hop in the cab and fire her right up.

ISSUE:
When I am attaching the negative cable to the battery post it blows what I'm considering the "Main Fusible Link". It's the first fuse the battery power would travel through and is located under the hood on the block next to the battery. My old one was chipped and broke so I couldn't read it so I bought a 30, 60 and 100 amp. Blew em all.

BACKSTORY:
PO installed a push start button underneath the dash that is outside the factory wiring paths so I can attempt to crank the engine with key to on position. I also have hazard lights (in cab and out), headlights w Hi beam indicator (in cab and out), horn, Red CHARGE light on instrument panel but no dash lights, fuel gauge, independent blinkers radio, cigarette lighter, and I'm also guessing fuel pumpage. It turns over just fine and turns and turns but will not even try to start. I know that main fuse is popped. I just don't know why.

IDEAS:
I was leaning towards something to do with the alternator since it now has a 90 amp upgrade kit in it. I will admit that this was my first alternator rebuild and while inexperienced, felt I did everything right. Only thing I could maybe think of is if a stator wire or two is possibly contacting the alternator housing since that seemed like it took some touch I was trying to figure out. Could this be a cause? Other than that, battery is charged fully and I am ready to start this truck!

Thanks much for the help guys. To go where no Haynes, Chiltons or FSM dare to go. March on Yotatech.

Cale

camo31_10.50

i would say that the Alt. wasn't assembled right...or maybe you have a loose connection..

mine blew that same fuse..and it also fried the ignitor and coil..so you might check there..

you could have a broken wire somewhere..check ALL OF YOUR GROUNDS..
and make sure you didnt blow anymore fuses..lol

i had sorta the same problem..replaced cables and alt..hooked it all back up blew the 80amp fusible link (the one you blew)..well got a new fusible link from oreiley's then still wasnt getting fire..checked and checked again and the coil and ignitor were bad...bout used ones from the junkyard..hopped in and it fired right up!!!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Looking at the wire diagram if you have the alternator assembled wrong it would cause a dead short when you connect the negative battery cable to the battery

Jipopotamo

what constitutes "assembled wrong"? I replaced everything tic for tac. The only deviance I can consider is if a stator wire is contacting the housing from the inside. If this is the case, we know those wires are coated with the slightest of insulation. Could I use heat shrink on the last portion of the stator wires to shield them from contact?

Also something I forgot:
The battery I am using is charged up as far as I can tell but the other day I did hook it directly up to a solar panel charger with DC alligator clamps and left it in the sun for at least one full day. Without some kind of metering or regulation, could this panel have "overcharged" or distorted my cheap valucraft battery in some way that would case a problem like this? Or are we leaning towards alternator?

If alternator, is there a telltale sign to look for when I open her back up? Thanks guys.

Cale

Jipopotamo

any ideas guys? I almost feel like I remember something about batteries behaving this way if they get overcharged or the like.