Ezrider_92356

some of you may or may not remember me posting a while back about how i was going to go to california and bring my toyota back home to north dakota. i forgot the url for this site and couldent find it again.

well any way i got the truck back here got it torn down to the short block found broken timing chain guides the chain had worn into the watter pump housing, the head was warped and the valves were worn so bad you could just about shave with them. so after new timing componates from EB new watter pump a rebiult head and and some other misc parts that i replaced while i was in there.


my truck on the my trailer comming home


engin torn down most the way


timming cover


rebiult head




where im at now should have it running tommorrow.

having a little trouble getting the coolant line from under the intake manifold to the heater hooked up i think it got bent some when i get it in, its about 1/8th of an inch off from the bolt holes lining up and it wont move any further becouse it hits the block. but i should be able to get it straightened out if not ill cut the bastard and just run rubber heater core line the whole way. i should be driving it for the first time in about 6 years tommorrow!

toyotatom93

Awesome, hope it runs good after all that.

Ezrider_92356

well i got it started today and ran into a couple problems one is the engin was surging realy bad probably a vacume leak or somthing and then i poped the valve cover back off and the #1 cylender exaust valve spring had come out of its seat. called the mechine shop and he wanted me to bring the head back in, well that would mean pulling the head again all new gaskets again i told him i realy dont want to do that and sujecsted compressing the cylender with air and removing compressing the valve spring removing the keepers and re setting it, he offered to let me use his valve spring compressor but after paying $271 on that head i was hoping he would be the one to fix it, but whatever

zlathim

You may want to rethink this one. You will have to remove the rocker assembly in order to get at the spring. The rocker assembly is held on by the head bolts isn't it?

Ezrider_92356

yes but as long as i dont break the seal i should be able to just re-install the rocker and head bolts and re-torque

zlathim

How are you gonna keep the seal intact when there is 100 psi in the cylinder? I know one guy suggested using short tubes as spacers so you can install the headbolts and torque the heads down before applying the air. You need to do something, or else it will leak. Even with all that, I think it is an iffy proceedure at best. If you do end up going that way, be sure to post up the results. I'm interested to see if it works.

Ezrider_92356

what i ended up doing is i put the number one cylinder at tdc removed the rockers compressed the valve spring and let the valve rest on the cylinder removed the keepers and the spring re-set and re installed the spring and keepers.

Ezrider_92356

now onto the surging problem, when i start the engine it will race up and then cut out then race back up cut back out again if i give it gas it still does the same except it will race up higher. i imagine its probably throwing a code, what is the procedure to pull the code its an 89 Toyota pickup 22re. im going to go threw the vacuume lines and double check my valve clearances what are some other things to check maby tps or mas airflow? what are the procedures to check these

AusTex

Here is a link that might help get the code checking done

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f120...-light-144839/

Ezrider_92356

well i found out its the tps, un pluged it and it runs SOOO!!! much better, still stumbles if you press the pedal too fast, of course what do you expect with out a tps