swerks

I want to replace my upper and lower ball joints. I can find plenty of info on the upper but not much on the lower?? can this be done without removing the knuckle? as the service manual states ??? any one know of any write ups or helpful info???

abecedarian

this is the '86 runner, no?
if so jack the truck up so the front wheels are off the ground, upper arm resting on the droop stop, maybe disconnect the sway bar endlink if necessary, separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle and the lower arm, install new ball joint, lower truck to ground, check alignment.

swerks

It is for the 86, but that just sounds to easy. there must bemore toit than that??

jason191918

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...joints-129477/

instead of letting the control arm droop on the stop, jack up the wheel and put a 2x4 in between the stop and arm (you may need to jack opposite corners to compress it enough). This will let the lower are droop allowing the BJ to come out. Get a pickle fork to separate them. Also, take off the clip on the end of the axle to prevent separating the outer CV when you pivot the knuckle on the upper BJ. Do one at a time.

abecedarian

yes, I see the benefit of jason191918's suggestion- spacing the upper arm from the droop stop. it gives you more room to push the lower arm down.

otherwise, it is that simple.

swerks

can you explain where and how to do this clip part

also my torsion bars are cranked now I asume I should relax them some before installing ball joint spacers ????

Hortence 95

Here's what I did with my second gen. Prying up the upper control arm makes playing with the lower ball joint much easier. If you use a long bar, you don't need to jack it to move it up, just wedge it in there and pull up, and then support it with something (see the stool in pic).

If link doesn't work then I will try to fix it.

swerks

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2382...42310107JsztNu

Is this the clip ???

Hortence 95

Yeah you can open it up and slide it off so you have more play in the assembly. I assume Jason19... is right that you should avoid yanking on the CV shaft if you don't have to. This is a good time to check the CV boots for tears. I had to replace both axles to get a sticker, but I know you can do just the boots if you want to do a little more work and save some dough.

swerks

Is it easier to do the upper or lower ball joint first ??? I will also be installing balljoint spacers. Any info that can make this whole job any easier would be much appreciated !

swerks

?????

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

I'd unbolt the CV's from the diff, undo both ball joints, tie up the brake calipers out of the way, and pull each whole assembly off (spindle, rotor, CV etc). The assembly is heavy, and wobbly to handle, but this will make it much easier to cut out the area for the upper spacer, and also to replace both upper/lower ball joints. Also, try to find the Japanese made 555 brand ball joints.

Yopar

iTrader: (2)

Also, sometimes a pickle fork can damage the spindle casting and make it harder to get apart. I prefer to use the type of puller used for tie rods with the threaded "pusher" bolt, most auto stores have them for "free" rental.

InternetRoadkill

Ball joint pullers rock. Never use a pickle fork if you can avoid it. The pullers are a lot easier and won't damage anything.