Teuf

subscribed

-City Slicker

Where is this indicated "Switch, Temperture" #(89428-26020) located in the engine ?
or the faulty original switch #(89428-2428) ..

ive searched for images but people seem to confuse it with the sensor that is over the thermostat.
& im pretty sure its not that one..?



/??

[QUOTE]
PilotDan:
I had this very same problem with my 1986 22RTE for 20+ years. I visited my dealer many times over the years in an attempt to isolate my problem and fix this hard starting/rough idle when hot situation without success. Finally I read somewhere that Toyota had come out with a Technical Service Bulletin way back in 1989 that identified my problem and provided a solution to fix the condition.

The fix involves replacing the temperature switch P/N #89428-2428 with P/N #89428-26020 which reduces the temperature the switch activates the fuel-up system from 110 degrees C (230 degrees F) to 60 degrees C (140 degrees F) and replacing the cold start injector time switch P/N #89462-30011 with P/N #89462-20050 which increases the temperature at which the start injector time switch activates the cold start injector from 35 degrees C (95 degrees F) to 45 degrees C (113 degrees F). Also for vehicles equipped with air conditioning, the ACV terminal wire to the ECU must be disconnected to prevent the idle up from working continuously after warm up.

I replaced these sensor switches and disconnected the ACV wire from my ECU and now my truck starts up perfectly and runs smoothly no matter if I start it up cold or hot.

If you have this same problem you can read the full text of Toyota's fix by getting a copy of TSB ENG011892010.

Good luck,

Dan /QUOTE]
^from
http://www.22rte-trucks.com/simplema...ic=661.15;wap2


i found this online.
& i have this same problem..

-City Slicker

cool just found this ...

diagram on how to fix the problem(s) with *85-87 22R-E/&/R-TE's

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...47008514,d.cGE

^ automatic download of TOYOTA's Service Bulletin
-recall diagram/instructions as PDF file

cracker_1

The URL is invalid.... Would like to see the link, as I am having issues with mine as well...

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE If the idle air valve were clogged, you'd more likely have issues idling when the engine's cold. It needs to be open at that point, and needs to be closed once the engine has reached operating temp. They do fail, yes. In which case, it's the thermal wax valve that goes bad and loses repsonse to coolant temp. Now, if it were stuck open, that could create warm idle issues. QUOTE]

If the valve were stuck open you would still get the high idle like you do during a cold startup because of the increased airflow.

-City Slicker

go to the link on a desktop computer and the PDF should download.

now i just have to find that stupid temp. switch #2

Rerunn

So...the problem with this issue needs to be addressed by replacing the temp time switch?

Teuf

Test out and clean IACV, worked for me.

Rerunn

I cleaned out the IACV when I rebuilt the top end. Helped on the cold start warm up and idle down. But same issue of low idle after driving then starting up again. Didn't really start bad till I rebuilt the top end tho. Thinking IACV myself but this time switch is new to me

BigHoss_27

So I'm having kind of same problem truck runs great cold then as it warms up it idles horrible till it dies and I can't keep running cause pushing gas does nothing but sound like its flooding

Rerunn

Bighoss that sounds like your iacv is sticking

BigHoss_27

How do I fix that

Teuf

Can you remove the IACV and test it?

BigHoss_27

Idle arm control vale?

Rerunn

There's a test procedure but I'm not sure by heart what it is. IACV is idle air control valve. Its located on the underside of the throttle body.

BigHoss_27

Any pics

BigHoss_27

Also maybe I should mention it want stay running at all not idle not half or full throttle sounds like it flood out after it get warm

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well I'm certainly a member of this very unhappy gremlin hunting family!

* Bogging out on warm restarts(few demonstrations)....



ANNNNNND... I seem to have a huge draw in my electrical.

* When I turn on the headlights, it often drops the idle from 750 rpm to 550-600 rpm. But the other day I actually got video where it drops down to 500 rpm when I turned the headlights on. (Headlight/RPM DROP demo at 3:20... but lots of weird stuff in all these. ...)


I have tested just around every single item on this truck, fully rebuilt to specs with plenty of power,... Brand new IACV last year, truck idles up to 1100 rpm when cold and drops down to 750 just like it should... However, like many here mention, it idles down terribly after warm restarts. It's gotten to the point now where in this hot weather it doesn't seem to matter if its 10 minutes or 30 minutes... Sometimes nearly up to an hour. But when starting up at fully cold again??? ZERO problems!

For some reason, I can't find the receipt, but I am positive that I replaced the thermal temp time switch that is on top of the thermostat housing in my 87 22RE 4Runnern't. My old parts dude, that is now retired as of this Spring, always, always, always checked to see if there were updates or bulletins. Sometimes the printouts he would give me when I would order the parts would reveal 3, sometimes 4 Parts updates. So, I'm pretty sure, at least on that one.

Here is a picture of the thermo temp time switch in case people haven't found it yet... & I don't think it's on but a couple of years......



I guess if this is the proper part number, it might just leave me with no choice to try and swap in the proper cold start injector time switch.(If it hasn't already been replaced).

I tried to just live with the misses and things that I've had... But this is driving me absolutely nuts and I wanted to solved. I've worked for too many hours, hundreds, upon this rig..., to not have it run like it's supposed to. I'm grateful that it is so reliable, and this never comes to the point of stalling... if this winds up being one of the two sensors I haven't replaced after chasing my tail all the time... I will both do nothing but jump for joy! Lol

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

Mind idles WAY higher than that on a cold start.....around 2k. It's always done that. My 89 22re doesn't have the time switch on top of the thermostat housing like yours does. Mine is located on the front of the engine. I'll take pictures this evening if I get the chance. I'm still having issues with my warm starts and I also have problems when coming to a stop. Sometimes it'll idle right at 800 or so and other times when I it'll dip to around ~500 and stay there until I hit the gas again.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Sparks!

I wouldn't wish this on another person. While its not a broken leg, or something of that calibre,... At least a broken leg heals, right? Hahaha...

Interesting on your TTTS being on the front of the motor. My cold start injector time switch is definitely on the front facing portion on the intake just below the throttle body, just to the left of another little bugger, the coolant temperature sensor.

As far as IDLING down during braking, hmm... Mine can do that occasionally, but its more so after coming to a stop and holding the brake for a short period. Even when it does that, will usually come out of it.

Another thing that bothers me is that I'm having to screw out the idle/air adjustment screw on the throttle body.... Just to keep the idle up which seems to still eventually fall to around 700 rpm. With more specificity: this thing seems to choose where it is going to be. Yesterday, I screwed the idle air adjusting screw out till the RPM was 800... Most often, in which I suspect today will be no different, if I set the idle higher as I did, the truck will run at 800... Only until I start stopping, killing the motor, restarting, and driving around town a bit. It seems like by the end of the next day I'm right back edit wanting to idle down to 700. That really, really, really seems like something within the system is causing a reaction between the ECU and everything else that seems to insist that it idles lower than it thinks it is! ........ I'm sure that sounds crazy, but do you understand what I mean? Like if a sensor is bad, a sensor that creates or decides a set of specs and values... If something like that goes bad, it would seem no matter what you do it's going to I'll wear it wants.