Hitman0341

Well I have an 89 4runner and when I bought it I knew it needed a new transmission. I went out to a field with a few friends and I hit a small mud hole going about 15 miles an hour. I did the same small hole about 4 times and on my 5th go around I was coming out the other side and suddenly lost slot of power. My truck would not go any faster than 5 miles an hours. Well I took the time to replace the transfer case and the transmission so that once I figured it out it would at least run better. Well I've been researching for the last few weeks and can't figure it out.

Here's what happens

I turn on the truck and it idles horribly. I took the exhaust off to check the CAT and turned the truck on and it idles a bit better but not much.

It also shakes a bit and will not exceeds faster than 10 mph.

I would take it to a shop but I prefer to at least have an idea of what could be wrong before taking it over. That and I hate being charged for someone to look at it and say "well it could be... and if that doesn't work" next thing you know you spend 2 grand and still nothings fixed .

Someone said could be a vacume hose came lose. Just dont know what hose that could be and it's location.

Hope you guys can give me some advice. Might just get a new engine and save myself the headache

MaK92-4RnR

Was there water in that mud hole?

rattlewagon

my toughs too. I would start with a compression test.

Hitman0341

But there wasn't much water in the mud hole. Kinda like goin through a large puddle with mud in it. Didn't even need 4 wheel drive. Compression test would be a good idea I guess. Hell for the cost of a rebuild I might as well buy a new freakin motor.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

pull the plug wires off one at a time and find your dead cylinder. I'm sure you have one!!

Hitman0341

Pull on the dist cap side or spark plug side. If it's a bad cylinder what's the cost to fix the engine? Or should I just buy a new engine and save myself the time and future headaches?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

spark plug side, pull one at a time and see if idle drops. If not then its a dead cylinder. Find the problem first then wiegh your options. I'm guessing number 6 is dead.

Hitman0341

Ill do this in the morning. I'm to drunk right now and hate getting shocked LMAO.

Hitman0341

Just did a check and noticed my oil presure is loweven at 4000 rpm. Engin has 140k on it. There is no sign of oil leak. Heads were rebuilt about 6 months ago just for kicks and it ran amazing after that. I'm guessing it's time for the lower half now. Still can't explain why it happened how it happened though. It even did fwent back to doin ok for a few seconds and then went to crap again while still out in the field. Not like it just went bam and dead. It was a slow steady downward spiral till it's where it is now. For some reason I never thought about oil presure. Of course most of my gauges don't work including my gas gauge so it's hopefully another faulty gauge. Of course if it's not then it narrows down my problem.

NJC1989

Dude, same model, year and engine. Same thing happened to me on a trail and I had to limp ass home. Mine threw check engine codes 31 and 32 = Air Flow Meter or Vacuum Switch. I cursed some, and then I got out of the cab to thoroughly check said Air Flow Meter. Guess what? The connector on the Air Flow Meter box had bounced loose from going through a pothole. It looked like it was on, but it was loose and not making a clean circuit. Went from running like all hell to running like a top again once I pushed the connector back on. Check that.

Hitman0341

Went and checked the connection. I even unplugged it and put it back on then tried to start it up. It's running like crap still. I'm goin to pull the air box off tomorrow and check that again. I bought a new distributor cap but noticed I need a new (laps in memory -----the deal that spins inside) . Sorry I'm ok at changing parts out but I suck at remembering the freakin names of every one of them. I already checked the spark plug wires to make sure none of them are arcing. My buddy said it could be a vacume hose but I'm new to toyotas and have not the slightest idea where to look. Once I find the problem I'm sure I can replace the part as long as it's not an internal part. I'm on leave now so I'll be spending all day tomorrow looking for the problem.

NJC1989

Damn, I thought for sure that'd be it. What's going on with your 4Runner is exactly what happened to me, all same symptoms. I replaced the dist. cap and rotor (the spinning deal) too before I tried checking the engine codes. And the cap + rotor can go and cause sudden problems like this ... But is yours throwing the check engine light? That can really narrow things down checking that. You'll need to connect a piece of wire or paper clip between two terminals (I forget exactly which ones) in the little diagnostic box right next to the relay box in the engine bay. Then you'll need to get back in the cab and check out how many times the light flashes, and look up the codes in a Haynes manual, other book, or online.

I'm no expert, but I'd guess your problem HAS to be related to something going on with the emission system -- a failed sensor, switch, or valve somewhere. Or something just bounced loose. It hopefully isn't related to the VAFM (Volume Air Flow Meter), because replacing that gets expensive -- but don't disconnect it from the engine in troubleshooting. There's a little vane door that measures the air in there, and if it isn't open, it doesn't complete the circuit for the fuel pump. No fuel pressure = not running at all. Do you have a K&N air filter on? I know if they're over-oiled sometimes the oil can get in there and blow the sensor.

Here's a link to great guide from sb5walker on Toyota-Nation on the ins-and-outs of owning a 3vze that might help: http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=283353