Longtime Drivetrain noise fixed-Thanks Zuk!
03-24-2008, 09:44 PM
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Longtime Drivetrain noise fixed-Thanks Zuk!
Hello from a long time reader of this forum,
I have had my '95 4Runner for about 6 1/2 years. During that time I have only put about 35K miles on it as it is just a fun weekend, Home Depot, Costco run vehicle. About five years ago the truck started with a minor drivetrain vibration/noise. First I thought I had lost a wheel weight. I needed new tires anyway so put some new BFG KOs on. Nice tires but it did not fix the problem. The problem is minor and the truck does not get driven much so no big deal.
Fast forward to about six months ago. The a/c in my WRX is not working so I decide to drive the 4Runner daily. The vibration/noise is starting to get worse. It would come on at about 50 miles per hour to 70mph from the rear of the truck. It thought it may be the u-joints - nope. So now I think it is the R&P or bearings and I had always wanted a Lock-rite diff. I bought a complete used 4Runner axle assembly and gave the 3rd to Zuk to go through and do his magic. I put the new third in w/4.88s and the lock-rite and I am happy because I now have a locker. The noise/vibration is still there. I talk to Zuk and he says to check the drive shaft for being in phase. It looked fine but to be sure I take to the drive shaft shop for new u-joints and balancing. No improvement.
Luckily I live in the Phoenix valley near Zuk. I went to his shop on Saturday and within ten minutes he had it fixed! He popped off the front of the drive shaft. Somehow the large staked 30 mm nut on the drive shaft flange at the rear of the transfer case had loosened. In his experience the flange did not feel right. He cranked away with an impact wrench, re-staked the nut, bolted up the drive shaft and it was all fixed.
I am bummed I did not figure out the problem sooner. But I am very pleased with the truck now with its improved traction abilities and quiet ride. I am very happy to have found Zuk. He is a treasure to the Toyota community. Sorry for the long post. Please check the classified as there will be a "pretty good overall" OEM Toyota 4.88 3rd blessed by Zuk.
I have had my '95 4Runner for about 6 1/2 years. During that time I have only put about 35K miles on it as it is just a fun weekend, Home Depot, Costco run vehicle. About five years ago the truck started with a minor drivetrain vibration/noise. First I thought I had lost a wheel weight. I needed new tires anyway so put some new BFG KOs on. Nice tires but it did not fix the problem. The problem is minor and the truck does not get driven much so no big deal.
Fast forward to about six months ago. The a/c in my WRX is not working so I decide to drive the 4Runner daily. The vibration/noise is starting to get worse. It would come on at about 50 miles per hour to 70mph from the rear of the truck. It thought it may be the u-joints - nope. So now I think it is the R&P or bearings and I had always wanted a Lock-rite diff. I bought a complete used 4Runner axle assembly and gave the 3rd to Zuk to go through and do his magic. I put the new third in w/4.88s and the lock-rite and I am happy because I now have a locker. The noise/vibration is still there. I talk to Zuk and he says to check the drive shaft for being in phase. It looked fine but to be sure I take to the drive shaft shop for new u-joints and balancing. No improvement.
Luckily I live in the Phoenix valley near Zuk. I went to his shop on Saturday and within ten minutes he had it fixed! He popped off the front of the drive shaft. Somehow the large staked 30 mm nut on the drive shaft flange at the rear of the transfer case had loosened. In his experience the flange did not feel right. He cranked away with an impact wrench, re-staked the nut, bolted up the drive shaft and it was all fixed.
I am bummed I did not figure out the problem sooner. But I am very pleased with the truck now with its improved traction abilities and quiet ride. I am very happy to have found Zuk. He is a treasure to the Toyota community. Sorry for the long post. Please check the classified as there will be a "pretty good overall" OEM Toyota 4.88 3rd blessed by Zuk.
03-25-2008, 04:58 AM
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Just take off your driveshaft and look at the the output flange on the tansfer case.
If you have to ask where it is, I don't think you should be messing with the nut IMO. You might make things worse but then again, you might fix the problem. I would take it to someone who knows what they are doing myself.
If you have to ask where it is, I don't think you should be messing with the nut IMO. You might make things worse but then again, you might fix the problem. I would take it to someone who knows what they are doing myself.
03-25-2008, 03:59 PM
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i had very little idea of vehicle mechanics and maintenance procedures when i had my 1st gen. my b.i.l. is a very hands on type of guy, he suggested i 'just get a manual and get your hands dirty.'
it wasnt until i got my 93 that i took the plunge, it was talking with and reading what other members on here had done and were able to do that gave me the confidence to tackle some jobs i would otherwise have paid to have done.
the only 'stupid' question is the question not asked. i consider myself an 'experienced noob'!
lee
it wasnt until i got my 93 that i took the plunge, it was talking with and reading what other members on here had done and were able to do that gave me the confidence to tackle some jobs i would otherwise have paid to have done.
the only 'stupid' question is the question not asked. i consider myself an 'experienced noob'!
lee
Just take off your driveshaft and look at the the output flange on the tansfer case.
If you have to ask where it is, I don't think you should be messing with the nut IMO. You might make things worse but then again, you might fix the problem. I would take it to someone who knows what they are doing myself.
If you have to ask where it is, I don't think you should be messing with the nut IMO. You might make things worse but then again, you might fix the problem. I would take it to someone who knows what they are doing myself.
03-25-2008, 04:15 PM
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Yeah but there are some things you don't want to just get "your hands dirty" with. Trust me.
And I am not being condescending with that comment. I just don't want to see someone cause a big problem when there was none to begin with.
And I am not being condescending with that comment. I just don't want to see someone cause a big problem when there was none to begin with.
Last edited by mjwalfredo; 03-25-2008 at 04:17 PM.
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03-25-2008, 05:30 PM
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[QUOTE=all_rice] Hey do you have a picture of where this nut is? I'm having the same problems with my truck. thanks
[QUOTE=mjwalfredo;50787991]Just take off your driveshaft and look at the the output flange on the tansfer case.
Yep... that is where it is. No photo opportunity without taking off the driveshaft again, which I don't plan on doing for awhile
[QUOTE=mjwalfredo;50787991]Just take off your driveshaft and look at the the output flange on the tansfer case.
Yep... that is where it is. No photo opportunity without taking off the driveshaft again, which I don't plan on doing for awhile
03-28-2008, 06:31 AM
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After reading up on this a little more I think it might be safe for someone who isn't a pro to attempt.
I thought there was a crush sleeve behind the flange but apparently not (at least on 3rd gen 4Runners and Tacomas of similar years).
I think I am actually going to try this myself. I don't have a tool to hold the flange but I have read that if you leave the vehicle in park, you should still be able to tighten the nut a little bit. The most dangerous part is unstaking/staking the nut it sounds like.
I am going to try it because I get this thud when I hit the gas after braking fairly hard. I also have some vibes that are definitely not coming from the motor but in the driveline somewhere. I have lubed the driveshafts numerous times, replaced wheel bearings and even pulled the 3rd member and took it to the best gear installer around Columbia, SC. None of that made it completely go away so I am going to at least inspect the flange and bolt.
I'll take a pic for you guys that wanted one.
I thought there was a crush sleeve behind the flange but apparently not (at least on 3rd gen 4Runners and Tacomas of similar years).
I think I am actually going to try this myself. I don't have a tool to hold the flange but I have read that if you leave the vehicle in park, you should still be able to tighten the nut a little bit. The most dangerous part is unstaking/staking the nut it sounds like.
I am going to try it because I get this thud when I hit the gas after braking fairly hard. I also have some vibes that are definitely not coming from the motor but in the driveline somewhere. I have lubed the driveshafts numerous times, replaced wheel bearings and even pulled the 3rd member and took it to the best gear installer around Columbia, SC. None of that made it completely go away so I am going to at least inspect the flange and bolt.
I'll take a pic for you guys that wanted one.
03-28-2008, 08:18 AM
#10
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Unstaking and restaking the flange nut is no big deal. It is soft, though. Just be attentive.
You know Marcus, you can put all the lube in the world in seizing u-joint and it will still seize enough to cause a thud like that. You may not even suspect a u-joint because it appears to be operating normally until you drop the shaft and really look at it.
I'd pull the driveline down and rotate each joint fully. Notice if any feel sticky, rough, or just not rotate at all. Also, look for any rust the may squeeze out with the lube.
Also, sometimes a good indicator for a loose flange nut is leaking gear oil. It causes excessive wear on the seal.
You know Marcus, you can put all the lube in the world in seizing u-joint and it will still seize enough to cause a thud like that. You may not even suspect a u-joint because it appears to be operating normally until you drop the shaft and really look at it.
I'd pull the driveline down and rotate each joint fully. Notice if any feel sticky, rough, or just not rotate at all. Also, look for any rust the may squeeze out with the lube.
Also, sometimes a good indicator for a loose flange nut is leaking gear oil. It causes excessive wear on the seal.
03-28-2008, 08:27 AM
#11
After reading up on this a little more I think it might be safe for someone who isn't a pro to attempt.
I thought there was a crush sleeve behind the flange but apparently not (at least on 3rd gen 4Runners and Tacomas of similar years).
I think I am actually going to try this myself. I don't have a tool to hold the flange but I have read that if you leave the vehicle in park, you should still be able to tighten the nut a little bit. The most dangerous part is unstaking/staking the nut it sounds like.
I am going to try it because I get this thud when I hit the gas after braking fairly hard. I also have some vibes that are definitely not coming from the motor but in the driveline somewhere. I have lubed the driveshafts numerous times, replaced wheel bearings and even pulled the 3rd member and took it to the best gear installer around Columbia, SC. None of that made it completely go away so I am going to at least inspect the flange and bolt.
I'll take a pic for you guys that wanted one.
I thought there was a crush sleeve behind the flange but apparently not (at least on 3rd gen 4Runners and Tacomas of similar years).
I think I am actually going to try this myself. I don't have a tool to hold the flange but I have read that if you leave the vehicle in park, you should still be able to tighten the nut a little bit. The most dangerous part is unstaking/staking the nut it sounds like.
I am going to try it because I get this thud when I hit the gas after braking fairly hard. I also have some vibes that are definitely not coming from the motor but in the driveline somewhere. I have lubed the driveshafts numerous times, replaced wheel bearings and even pulled the 3rd member and took it to the best gear installer around Columbia, SC. None of that made it completely go away so I am going to at least inspect the flange and bolt.
I'll take a pic for you guys that wanted one.
Steve's was so easy to spot....his nut was 1/2 turn loose 180 degrees.
Unstaking the nut only makes it 2% easier to remove....in other words, you will not even realized that it is staked if you can get a grip on the nut without the flange turning. Now, if you have an electric impact like I do then just use 2 fingers while ramming the nut on tighter.
There is no crush sleeve of any sort on the transfer case end(unlike the rear 3rd member end) and the FSM says 90 ft/lb on that nut....but I know you can ram it on much tighter if you like...nothing will get over-crushed. I know what's on the other side of the transfer case.
03-28-2008, 08:01 PM
#13
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Great info, I need to check that on my truck. I have the same thing from 50mph to 60mph. It may also be the wheight in the rear brake drumb that poped off
Not sure it that will make it viberate as much as mine dose though.
Jeremy
Not sure it that will make it viberate as much as mine dose though. Jeremy
03-29-2008, 05:11 AM
#14
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I wish I lived in Phoenix long enough to get ZUK's help.
Edit: I might just bring two ARB's with me on my vacation to the area & do a drive by of the 4-wheel drive kind lol
Edit: I might just bring two ARB's with me on my vacation to the area & do a drive by of the 4-wheel drive kind lol
Last edited by Brenjen; 03-29-2008 at 05:12 AM.
03-29-2008, 04:18 PM
#15
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For those of you who were interested in doing this and wanted a picture here it is. You must first remove the drive shaft flange bolts. Thats very easy to do. I just did mine today. Incredible difference on the highway. grab it and try to move it . if it does then take it apart and tighten it.
For a larger image click HERE
For a larger image click HERE
Last edited by machabees; 03-29-2008 at 04:19 PM.
03-30-2008, 05:04 AM
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Machabees, thanks for posting the pic. I promised one but when I crawled under the truck to check for play like Zuk said, there was no play whatsoever. I didn't feel like getting all greasy taking off the driveshaft when the flange felt good.
03-30-2008, 04:28 PM
#19
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One more thing I thought to mention. when you pull of the drive shaft a little tranny fluid from the t-case will leak out. maybe about 1/4 cup or so. Be prepared for it. I got some on my face cause I wasn't.
03-30-2008, 05:47 PM
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I think you may have a rear seal problem. ATF should not leak from there.
