toystoplay

Its a a 1991 puck up. I've been driving this truck since 2003 and even in warm weather it takes a super long time for the idle to kick down. Is there a way I can adjust it so it kicks down sooner. I know it doesn't need that much warm up time. Any help would be appreciated. Jim

Marc

Help us out.

What engine?

Define "super long time".

toystoplay

Its a 22re
I will take a clock to it later today
thanks for the reply

JohnVH

my v6 takes too long in my opinion too. my only complaint

4x4jeffyota

my 22r does the same thing and I hate it

Leviticus6432

my 3vze is the same way sounds like its just a toyota They do design everything way overkill after all lol

aviator

Without knowing any specifics regarding how long it is running at high idle I would say it sounds like you have a problem with the vacuum idle up valve... it may be sticking or there may be a slight leak in the vacuum line running to it...
it is a small round [black] device with a steel piston coming out one end that pushes against a spring loaded lever that is connected to the throttle linkage on the side of the throttle body [or carb if you have a 22r] when a high idle is needed the valve pushes the piston out which acts against the lever and advances the throttle. When the high idle is no longer needed the piston retracts and the throttle returns to normal.

Sometimes the piston gets gunky and slow to react... clean the outside of the carb/throttle body with some engine cleaner/throttle body cleaner and use an old toothbrush to gently scrub off any caked on gunk. then lightly lube the linkage with some white lithium grease. There is also an adjustment screw on the linkage where it touches the idle up piston this is your idle adjustment screw... if you are already idling higher then normal the idle up will only be worse... for specific numbers for idle setting check your owners manual or the FSMs we have linked here but for a good basic rule of thumb for the engines in these trucks around 600 rpm seems to be a happy place for them.

If it is still doing this after cleaning you may have a vacuum leak... or you may be having a problem with the eng. temp. sensor come to think of it... both of these issues are a little more involved to check though...

JohnVH

except the headgaskets, lol.

Mine will idle down to 8-900, but takes a long time and only when its 100% warmed up.

Waylayer

i have the 3vze that does same thing, depending on how long the high idle lasts you may be good.

JohnVH

Ive done some research on how to adjust it, want to drop it down, or try to remove it

kev

May be a worn out tps ... just a thought. I have read threads which contain info on tps internal spring getting weak. Not that the tps is bad.. just the spring does not have the "return" power it once had.. Kev

toystoplay

Marc and aviator

The amount of time it takes to kick down when I first start it up, high idle is at 2200 RPM it takes about 17 minutes to gradually get down to 900 RPM. Even driving it really doesn't change the kick down time to much.

I guess I could change it to where the low idle is less than 900. I've never touched it.

toystoplay

I don't know to much about fuel injection but if the TPS spring was weak wouldn't it have a high idle every time I start it? It only happens when its a cold start.

thanks for the input I will research that. Jim

TinMan

Aviator, I think you are talking about the dash pot which does not effect the cold idle. It is to slow down the throttle plate closing so that it does not slap closed to fast. Which will make it back fire and screw up the ECU for a bit.

He should have an IAC under the throttle body that is actuated off the coolant. If it dirty, clogged, or vacuum leak that will affect the cold idle. Unfortunately it has to come apart to be cleaned.

On the side of the air chamber, behind the throttle body there is a valve with 4 vacuum lines going to it. It has a white knob on the top of it. Two of the vacuum lines come from the power steering pump. It is used to idle up when the PS pump is under a load. First check it and the lines for leaks. Then turn the knob down and see if that helps the cold high idle. I do it a half turn at a time.

I've got a bit of the same problem. Just not as high as yours. The valve I'm telling you about is turned all the way down, which sucks because then it doesn't idle up for the PS pump. So I've got something else wrong some where just can't find it.

thook

I think Aviator might be talking about the "throttler opener" (or confusing it ) which would be opposite side of the TB from the dashpot. It's on the TPS side, IOW's. If so, I didn't know any carb'd vehicles had them. As well, I know only a/t EFI vehicles have them and not m/t's. Anyway..

What you are talking about, Tinman, is called the A/C idle up valve on the side of the plenum/upper intake manifold. In your case, you might check the actual PS air control valve down at your power steering pump or any of the VSV's on the top of the valve cover.....particularly the A/C VSV connected to the IU valve. Unless, of course, you don't have one. Some don't. If there is one, or others, if they remain open when there's no need for them to be, there's a small vacuum leak that can contribute to a higher than normal idle and exacerbated during a cold idle.

thook

That's not normal at all!! 17 min's? Wow.

900 warm idle is not normal, either. You could adjust the idle bypass screw to bring that down, but if the problem is with a sticking IAV it won't really solve the problem. And, it sounds like the IAV is sticking.

Edit: Correction ..............the manual says 850rpm +/- 50 rpm, so 900 isn't out of the question, but 2,200 still is too high. And, 17min's is way too long.....which you knew.

TinMan

Thook, I'll check the valve on the PS pump tomorrow, might just by pass it as its not doing anything for the pump right now anyway. I had to by pass the AC VSV because it was leaking. No other VSV's. I have the later model intake system on my 85 , I don't think it has the Throttle opener you mention, but I'll check that also. I can't find any other vacuum leaks. If the IAC is sticking what is the best way to get it functional again? I did notice there is a rubber gasket that seals it to the throttle body, is there replacements for that still available?

thook

Adjust/remove what?

thook

Don't bypass it. Just look up how to inspect it. You actually kinda really need it when you've actually found the problem....if that isn't the problem. If it is the problem, then yeah....screw it. But, your idle will bog down on sharp turns.

Well, if you don't use the a/c much, the VSV isn't imperative, but the consequence of a lagging idle is annoying.

Later model intake? What year? If you have a 5spd and your replacement intake (rather the TB) came from a 5spd, you shouldn't have a throttle opener. There's no need. But, depends on what type of IAV you have as to the best way to fix it. That's why I ask what year. It was either '88 or '89 that the IAV went from the heater current/bimetal type to the thermal wax/TB integrated type. Which style do you have?

4wd4fun

regardless of year its heated by coolant, pre 89 has bimetal electric heater too
easy to tell the diff- if the throttle turns down it's pre 89 (thanks to the celica, my 88 turns down) and if its straight it's 89 up and they're not interchangable since the turn down is part of the intake manifold not the throttle. early ones are separete from the throttle and later ones are part of it

either way the valve may need flushed and cleaned. its both a low spot and where collant mostly only flows when the engine is cold and the tstat is closed so things do build up there