4runner_guy

Hey there guys, I took a trip to San Jose with my 4runner and noticed that when going up incline hills in fifth gear, my clutch was slipping and noticed the truck revving and slipping. So the clutch is about to see the end of it's days soon. It leaks now where the slave cylinder boot is located on the bell housing too and the pedal travel release is just about an inch or so. So is the clutch done? Perhaps, definitely.

I called my local Toyota parts wholesale guy and was quoted a little over $400 with all the parts that I may need: Re-manufactured disc/pressure plate=$120, pilot bearing=$8, throwout bearing=$50, Clutch master cylinder=$150, Slave cylinder=$30, and rear main seal=$20.
Should I go with a re-manufactured disc and pressure plate? My parts guy told me that's all they make now and that I can go with aftermarket. I have been reading up a lot on which clutch to get, which is either Aisin or MC but cannot make up my mind. Can I get these parts (excluding the clutch kit) cheaper at Autozone? And I have been searching on ebay for a decent price for an Aisin clutch kit but cannot find it. Any help and advice would be great, thanks in advance guys.

**One more thing, would it be a good idea to just replace both slave and clutch master cylinders and then bleed the system afterwards to ensure proper efficiency?

4runner_guy

Just found a few links to ebay, what do you guys think?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAND...item5d2bd8a72c
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Aisin...item3f0a83b064
I hear that ASCO is still in line with Aisin still? Not sure.

Peterbuilt84

I am going to get a new clutch soon. I am going to go with the Marlin Crawler Clutch. They are better than stock and I have heard lots of good things about them.

4runner_guy

That sounds like a good deal too but just called my local MC and they have their 1200 lb kit for $179 plus tax and he'll (Nicholas) will cut me a deal since I might be needing two, one for me and my dad. I know MC has good quality stuff and they have them in stock so I am going to go that route so I don't have to wait for shipping....unless if you guys are located in the San Francisco region, then I wouldn't mind getting it from you as I know that Aisin is good quality stuff too because I am still in San Jose.

I know, been reading a lot of good things about MC too...that's all I have been hearing about so far.

The MAN

is it bad enough you can't limp it for a few days while the clutch is on the way? The way I see it, you're going to have to replace or resurface the flywheel anyway... after having so many miles on it, it has to be done

clutch replacements should always have the flywheel resurfaced or replaced anyway or there maybe issues such as chatter... that's why clutch makers void warranties if that is not done as they consider it "abuse" and "improper installation"

pruney81

When I did my clutch a while ago it had 98K original miles on it and I ended up replacing the slave and master at the same time. Mostly the slave because the old one fell apart when I was taking out though. I also had the flywheel resurfaced locally for around $40 I think.

4runner_guy

I'll be resurfacing the flywheel once the tranny comes out. I'm just trying to justify paying $150 for the clutch master cylinder, could I grab that at a local auto store VS paying the extra money?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Clutch MC should be no where close to $150.

I got them too

:wabbit2:

pruney81

I think one could get away with a clutch master from a parts store. It might just be a rebuilt AISIN anyways, like my brake master cylinder

4runner_guy

I actually got both the slave and MC for under $100 plus getting MC's 1200lb clutch for $200, so all in all I spent $300 for all the parts, the truck should be ready by this weekend.

Keith B.

Aisin OEM style clutches are called 'ASCO' in the USA. Many(all?) Toyota dealers claim falsely that only rebuilts are available.

4runner_guy

So if that is the case, should I go with the ebay listing and just get that and return the Marlin clutch?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRAND...d=245024681934

4runner_guy

Returned the Marlin clutch and went ahead and got the ASCO clutch kit from ebay for $85 shipped to my door. Saved nearly $115...now I can use that money for my DIY soft top using an FJ40 bikini top..YAY!

4runner_guy

Quick question, does the flywheel need an alignment? Or mark because I forgot to do that....or does it not matter?

BigMike

So they do not even offer a brand new Toyota clutch?

Actually we don't use AISIN discs, instead we use SECO discs which we believe are a better choice for wheeling.

Well said

That thought came to mind while reading this thread.

Whenever you replace your clutch you must get your flywheel resurfaced if you want it to perform well. Clutch discs depend on the coarse patterns of a resurfaced flywheel in order to break in properly. The same applies for piston rings and disc brakes: The coarse surface is needed in order to true the mating surface of the other component.

Over many miles of use, the clutch disc wears the surface of the flywheel into a shiny & smooth finish. If you simply slap on a new disc, this smooth flywheel surface will not be able to true the fibrous surface of the disc. The result will be a clutch disc that never breaks in, never achieving its full performance.

Looking at it on a more microscopic scale, despite our best manufacturing processes, there are high and low spots of fibers on the disc (thicker/thinner regions). The high spots come in contact with the flywheel first. These high spots need to be rubbed down so that they reach the same level as the low spots. This is the only way to get the full face of the disc involved in spreading the load. If this doesn't happen and you apply high amounts of torque to only the high spots on the disc, the reduced surface area is not able to dissipate the heat as quick resulting in baked or glazed high-spot fibers. Once this happens it will take a very long time to break the clutch in, or the clutch may never break in, because the fibers have melted/glazed.

That is why you need to slowly break your new clutch in, not showing full power and not downshifting for the first 500-1,000 miles of use. This is only possible with a resurfaced flywheel.

This is also why new pressure plates have a rough surface, just like the flywheel should. The same applies; You never see a brand new pressure plate out-of-the-box with a mirror finish.

Sorry I think I started rambling here

BigMike

4runner_guy

^I just had my flywheel resurfaced and as a matter of fact, I just picked it up and boy is it purrrttyyy! Lol. Thx a lot bunch for the info, it helps me understand a bit more of how important a clean surface is in order to allow maximum performance out of my clutch and flywheel. So I take it that I could just slap the flywheel in without worrying about the right or wrong way? I mean, as long as it's facing the correct position that is.

BigMike

Awesome, good choice. Whoops, sorry I forgot to talk about marking the flywheel. I am impressed to see that ppl still exist who take care in what they do. When we pull off clutch assemblies from flywheels that we intend to put back together, we always mark the position of where the pressure plate was mounted to the flywheel. We also mark flywheel to crank shaft positioning, but this is only because we don't know the history of the engine and it's a safe bet to put things back together the way they came off.

As for the pressure plate & flywheel, it's only recommended when reassembling the same parts back together that have broke in together.
As for the flywheel to crank shaft, it's only needed when the engine has been balanced/blue printed in a rebuild (having material shaved from or added to the flywheel).

Because you have a new flywheel surface and a new pressure plate, and your flywheel and engine (likely to be stock parts) are balanced from the factory, it doesn't matter at all, just bolt everything up!

BigMike

4runner_guy

^Perfect, thanks a lot! That's exactly the answer I needed to hear. Should get the truck up and running by today.

4runner_guy

So I decided to go the route that you had implied and I am glad that I did, thanks to your comment . I ended up buying a new starter from Napa Auto parts as well since it was going out. The last thing that I am waiting on now is the ASCO clutch kit to arrive and hopefully it'll arrive by Saturday the latest.
I pulled the transmission out by utilizing an engine lift since I had no access to a transmission jack and boy it sure was easy. It took me and a good friend nearly 3.5 hours to pull it since it was our very first attempt. Bought some Simple Green and went ahead to tackle the tough "cake grime" and dirt that was built up during the years. Luckily I had the pressure washer on stand by cause that took off most of the grime, sorry, no before pictures but I am sure that most of you know how bad a "cake" build up looks like but here is the final results after 2 hours of scrubbing, spraying, scrubbing, and spraying:
Transmission

Bell housing

It came off pretty well and I was really impressed with the Simple Green products! The pressure washer did most of the work so that really cut down A LOT of time. I also dropped off my flywheel to get it resurfaced:
Before

After

Here is the badly worn out clutch:



And some teaser pics of what I will be doing (some are already installed in the pics) once the clutch arrives:

4runner_guy

Argh, damn USPS messed up on the shipment and will have to ship out my clutch on monday....that literally sucks.