93yotafromvt

i have a 93 yota 4x4 with the 22re ive had an issue the last few weeks the truck runs fine gets up to opporating temp and runs fine for a while untill i sit in traffic or hammer on it for little it cuts out spitters and spudders and it dosent want to idle, Ill let it sit for a with then it runs fine untill it gets to that temp again ive replaced just about everything besides the ignition control module thats really the only thing i can narrow it down to ive read every post portaning to this problem and it seems very likely im on a cross country trip and I dont want to spend 400dollars on a new module. and does the msg ignition kit replace this module or does it wire intoit somebody I need some advice thanx>>>>>>>i hope someone can help

scope103

My guess, and it's really only a guess, is timing. But you didn't really replace even one part without checking the timing, did you?

PS Invest $0.25 in some periods, and a few commas. There might be some information in your post but it's lost on me.

93yotafromvt

the truck has been running fine timing is not the issue. Ive done a tune up spark plugs, cap, rotor checked contact distance inside distributor and replaced coil. And I have done valve clearance ajustment while engine was hot and from factory specs. I have also done compresstion test on all cylinders and checked for vaccume leaks feul pressure is fine also. I just recently chased the wiring harness all the way back to the fuel pumped, also I tryed bypassing fuel pump at diagnostic port. I cant think of anthing else to try......Thanx

combatcarl

Try testing out by FSM, water temp sensor, and maybe.. check out your IAC, under throttle body. Just things that will affect hot idle.

scope103

Uh, does that mean once the truck is assembled at the factory (and is running fine), that timing can never get off? No matter how many components you replace? So why does every auto mechanic own a timing light?

A timing light costs $20-$40 http://www.harborfreight.com/xenon-t...ight-3343.html. You've already spent more than that replacing parts on-the-blind. Changing the cap and rotor can change timing all by itself.

Any other suggestions I can come up with involve pulling the engine apart. Which I would never do without ruling out the easy stuff first. Your choice.

93yotafromvt

i have checked the timing and i do own a timing light i dont understand why cant I get honest advice. Thanx for the advice I recieved

myyota

Don`t waste your money on an MSD ignition, the stock ignition is more reliable. When was the last time you replaced the fuel filter ?. Remove the throttle body and give it a good cleaning and check the TPS to make sure its properly adjusted. Test the AFM, there is an air temperature sensor inside of it, if it goes bad it might cause the problems your having. The sensor can`t be replaced by it self if its bad, the AFM has to be replaced.

abecedarian

Since no one mentioned that one thing right there... that thing that has air and coolant and can affect so much if it doesn't work right... I'm not going to mention it either.

Oh, and since MSD was brought up... you have a '93 and no mechanical or vacuum advance on the distributor, and the ECU controls timing, where do you think the MSD is going to get its signals from?

93yotafromvt

so would the afm or tps cause the motor to die like it is? It only dies when at opporating temp its like the ignition is getting turned off and then on again. It also idles sporadically I ajusted the factory idle position to 750rpms but once it gets warm it drops to 500rpms or sometime not at all. I really dont feel like ripping the intake off if I dont have to. ps would cleaning the sensor plugs with contact cleaner help?

93yotafromvt

the fuel filter was one of the first things I changed

wescx005

Quote:

Originally Posted by combatcarl

Try testing out by FSM, water temp sensor, and maybe.. check out your IAC, under throttle body. Just things that will affect hot idle.

Is it throwing a code / CEL ? I have went through 2 sensors on my 93 4x4, a knock sensor and water coolant temp senor. Both were intermittent and always happened once truck was running in a closed loop. The ECU will retard the timing, and that would start me down the road of checking fuel, dirty injectors, tune up (plugs and distributor) but always checkout fine. Both times the CEL didn’t immediately come on. Usually after a few days the light would finally come on and I would pull the code and then replace what was first on the list. I guess the sensors have to completely fail or fail enough times during the check sequence for the ECU to react.

93yotafromvt

im getting no codes ive thrown the jumper wire in the diagnostic port and all the check engine light does is flash meaning no codes. I would assume there are no faulty sensors but i could be wrong I would at lease think it would give me a code if that was the case.

myyota

Just a thought, but you could have a fuel pump thats getting weak and going bad, and once it heat up it quits working. And once it cools down it starts working again.

If your fuel pump is original its 19 yrs old and probably has over a hundred thousand miles on it.

Keith B.

You did adjust the idle with the engine at operating temperature didn't you?

Kiroshu

Check coolant sensor. Clean throttle body and replace gasket.

Fuel pump over heating is possible due to age and debris.

93yotafromvt

I just changed out the gas tank due to a hole. pump seemed to be recently changed hard to tell what the guy that owned the truck before me did, how would I know? and yes I did ajust the throttle position at operating temp.

abecedarian

Idle speed (and ignition timing too by the way) is set with the engine fully warmed up.
So if you set it to 750 it should have already been warmed up and no where for it to go when it warms up 'cause it's already there.

93yotafromvt

so I found out what the problem was after all this time of traveling. It was something to do with the ignition control module but not the module itself. The two wires that run from the module to the plug that goes to the pickup coil over time have become brittle from the heat of the engine. You could take the wire bend it and you could hear it cracking like a glow stick. I replaced the wires and have gone over 1000miles with no problems. Just wanted to post this in case anybody has similer problems.