knocking in engine with acceleration - any advice greatly apprecaited
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knocking in engine with acceleration - any advice greatly apprecaited
so ill start with a disclaimer...im only now starting to understand the basics of how an engine works. so if there's a technically bit of explanation, its probably best to just "barney proof" it for me.
So under heavy acceleration, i would hear a metallic pinging near the front of the engine. I've read a couple threads on the topic and decided that its probably that pesky DS timing chain guide. So with the proper replacements, (new TC kit, oil and water pump, TC cover, and new gaskets for everything), i set off to correct "the issue" and save some $$$ doing it myself. The guide apparently isn't the problem...
I'm now lead to believe that it might be a case of spark knock. I've got some of the symptoms,
- using the cheapest gas at the pump
- scorching to the top of the pistons and exhaust valves
- metallic pinging
Any input from a people with more experience would be greatly appreciated.
I will gladly post pictures upon request...
So under heavy acceleration, i would hear a metallic pinging near the front of the engine. I've read a couple threads on the topic and decided that its probably that pesky DS timing chain guide. So with the proper replacements, (new TC kit, oil and water pump, TC cover, and new gaskets for everything), i set off to correct "the issue" and save some $$$ doing it myself. The guide apparently isn't the problem...
I'm now lead to believe that it might be a case of spark knock. I've got some of the symptoms,
- using the cheapest gas at the pump
- scorching to the top of the pistons and exhaust valves
- metallic pinging
Any input from a people with more experience would be greatly appreciated.
I will gladly post pictures upon request...
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Check your distributor it may be to advance. Do the basics on a complete tune-up, gap spak plugs to specs, might want to adjust your valve lash. If your not so lucky it might be your bottom end knocking and it might need of an overhaul. best of luck
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Yup, start at the beginning. Walk through a stock tune-up http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...sm/engine.html (look for link to Tune Up Procedures).
Since your engine has a knock sensor, it is very hard to make it knock, even with really cheap gas. Still, no reason not to check timing (and use a timing light, don't guess. They're $20, and you can compare that to what you've already spent on spec.)
Since your engine has a knock sensor, it is very hard to make it knock, even with really cheap gas. Still, no reason not to check timing (and use a timing light, don't guess. They're $20, and you can compare that to what you've already spent on spec.)
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everything that ive read on base 2wd 22re's indicate that they dont actually have a knock sensor. toyota for whatever reason didnt put one in; didnt put in the wiring to have one put in later either.
if i had to guess i would dare say it was a timing issue (either too far forward or what have you)...i didnt have a timing gun or anything like that to properly check it when i did an emergency rebuild early last year. but on a positive note, im on a wild "tool acquiring" streak lately...might as well get a Tgun and check/clean/patch everything up while ive got this bad boy torn apart.
heres hoping...
if i had to guess i would dare say it was a timing issue (either too far forward or what have you)...i didnt have a timing gun or anything like that to properly check it when i did an emergency rebuild early last year. but on a positive note, im on a wild "tool acquiring" streak lately...might as well get a Tgun and check/clean/patch everything up while ive got this bad boy torn apart.
heres hoping...
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(I have a 3VZE, so I have no personal experience to contribute.)
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im 99% certain, (because nothing/no one can be 100%) that the only 22re's that come with knock sensors are the 4wd models. mine is just a lowly 2wd model. its supposed to be on the left side of the block, near the oil filter but not to mistaken for the OPS (which even that doesnt seem to want to work with the sr5 cluster i installed...)
even if it is magically invisible, ive decided to just go on without it and finish working on my timing chain assembly, my valve cleaning, and then worrying about get everything put back together. will probably change my o2 sensor while im at it.
even if it is magically invisible, ive decided to just go on without it and finish working on my timing chain assembly, my valve cleaning, and then worrying about get everything put back together. will probably change my o2 sensor while im at it.
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yeah, while after i found out it wasnt the driver side guide being broken, i i started looking at my spark plugs. based on the look of them i came up with either detonation from my timing being set by ear...or a combination of this and my fuel injectors needing a good cleaning. shipped them to Mr. Injector out of Idaho, witch hunter wasnt accepting new shipments so i looked elsewhere.
so im got new NGK V-power plugs (people really seem to recommend this) i cleaned all the carbon deposits off my pistons and im planning on cleaning up the valves tomorrow. i plan on changing out that o2 sensor after everything put back together.
so im got new NGK V-power plugs (people really seem to recommend this) i cleaned all the carbon deposits off my pistons and im planning on cleaning up the valves tomorrow. i plan on changing out that o2 sensor after everything put back together.
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its only near the higher end or whenever i drive my truck like a racecar.
i wish i could give both you and myself an actual range, but i lack a working tach or a tool that would give me such a reading.
however if i drive it like a normal human being and shift low instead of the fast and the furious, it doesnt give me too much problem. but its the "what if" that was killiing me
i wish i could give both you and myself an actual range, but i lack a working tach or a tool that would give me such a reading.
however if i drive it like a normal human being and shift low instead of the fast and the furious, it doesnt give me too much problem. but its the "what if" that was killiing me
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i wouldnt doubt it need valve adjustments...figured i would take care of that while the engines torn apart. what number would i be looking for when everything is put back together, as far as compression goes?
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everything that ive read on base 2wd 22re's indicate that they dont actually have a knock sensor. toyota for whatever reason didnt put one in; didnt put in the wiring to have one put in later either.
if i had to guess i would dare say it was a timing issue (either too far forward or what have you)...i didnt have a timing gun or anything like that to properly check it when i did an emergency rebuild early last year. but on a positive note, im on a wild "tool acquiring" streak lately...might as well get a Tgun and check/clean/patch everything up while ive got this bad boy torn apart.
heres hoping...
if i had to guess i would dare say it was a timing issue (either too far forward or what have you)...i didnt have a timing gun or anything like that to properly check it when i did an emergency rebuild early last year. but on a positive note, im on a wild "tool acquiring" streak lately...might as well get a Tgun and check/clean/patch everything up while ive got this bad boy torn apart.
heres hoping...
If you haven't already, start reading the FSM like it's your new favorite book. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/.
Seriously though, just reading up on sections will solve half your issues. I've learned a ton about my truck and understand it way better. The maintenance section is very helpful, it'll show things like how to adjust valves and other tasks that are more common.
Here's from the FSM about your compression check for a 22RE:
Compression pressure:
1,177 kPa (12.0 kgf/cm2, 171 psi)
Minimum pressure:
981 kPa (10.0 kgf/cm2, 142 psi)
Difference between each cylinder:
98 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm2, 14 psi) or less
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170-180 psi is ideal for these motors. But... More important is that all cyl are relatively even, with no more than 17psi difference between them. I wouldnt be happy if there was more than 10psi difference myself.
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thanks guys. i made a voyage to HF and picked up and a timing gun, valve spring compressor, o2 sensor socket, and some free screwdrivers thanks to a little old lady who gave me the coupon (and then even got the screwdrivers for me as well.)
thankful the valves werent THAT dirty, should be a quick clean and then im one step closer.
thankful the valves werent THAT dirty, should be a quick clean and then im one step closer.
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I know this isnt really for helping me, but I'd like to see if thats my problem. I just have a noob question... Where's the o2 sensor and how do I check it?
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#20
its only near the higher end or whenever i drive my truck like a racecar.
i wish i could give both you and myself an actual range, but i lack a working tach or a tool that would give me such a reading.
however if i drive it like a normal human being and shift low instead of the fast and the furious, it doesnt give me too much problem. but its the "what if" that was killiing me
i wish i could give both you and myself an actual range, but i lack a working tach or a tool that would give me such a reading.
however if i drive it like a normal human being and shift low instead of the fast and the furious, it doesnt give me too much problem. but its the "what if" that was killiing me
As far as your sr5 cluster oil gauge issue, did you install an sr5 oil pressure sensor as well? The sensor for your truck is not compatible with a gauge. It is meant for the dummy light