babyfood1217

... Well, an Engnbldr head and cam that is $436 should bring the head and 268-C cam to my door hopefully sooner than not. I want to get my truck on the road again. It turns out all all of my colling system issues were the result of what I feared, a blown head gasket. Blew in such that there was no coolant in the oil, but the exhaust gasses were overpressurizing every component in the coolant system, hence me having to keep replaing them. Figured it was a head gasket when I started getting water from my exhaust.

Plan thus far is to get truck on the road. When funds pool up again, I'm going to look into exhaust from manifold back. I've been reading more and more of you say that the stock exhaust manifold is still a good choice, rather just some attention to the remainder of the exhaust system (downpipe, cat, muffler, pipes, etc...)

Talking with Ted and Tod at Engnbldr, I relayed to them what my driving habits/vehicle was like. Here's a bit of our convo...

I wrote...
My truck is as follows, and since it is a daily driver, it will likely stay this way (for now )
-1988 4runner, 5 speed - factory exhaust, gearing, and wheels/tires size. Mostly highway driving, light towing, typical rpm range is between 2k and 3k.

I'm not doing wheeling with this truck, so I don't think I need low end grunt. I rarely tow anything, and if I do, it's fairly light. I hate having to shift to go up hills, and I would like to keep it that way. I don't mind a lumpy idle (I forget which cam the yotatech guys said would give me that) but wouldn't mind NOT having one either

Ted responded with...
From your description, the 268C/Torkr would be the best choice of our offerings. It has nice off idle to midrange torque potential, it helps with towing and is smooth on the highway.

It is by far the most popular profile we supply for those wishing a daily driver, and nice since it will work just fine with all stock springs and rockers. If is mellow with 218° @ .050" lobe rise and good .425" gross valve lift.

Our 261C/Crawler is also nice, it has a very small lower midrange potential but helps for those that want to use higher RPM to get across the puddle that is a tad too deep

Yep, the 268C is what I suggest for you.

Thanks,
Ted(engnbldr)

When I get the beast in, I'll probably talk a bit more...

Yippee!

-Chris

p.s.- I am now broke

babyfood1217

I wish I had the money to get the over sized valves (what, $100 more?) but i already had to beg borrow and steal to get the stock head. So broke, and I really need the head asap. Rockers and what not will be transferred over from the old head. Pretty sure the head assembly come sprung/valved with the cam installed.

babyfood1217

Boy is this thing purty. Head just arrived, sprung valved and cammed. I kinda just want to sit with it in my lap for a while and carress it. Anywhoo...

I was curious about timing with this, as it seems a number people have questions or issues with the EB cams and I wanted to just see what Ted and Tod at EB had to say. Tod answered the phone, and it turns out these cams should be complete dropin replacements. Ignition and cam timing should be same as stock. Good to know! So hopefully by the weeks end I'll be tootin' around in my little '88 rnr again! Yay!!!!

-Chris