Installing 3.0 headers and hit a snag with the trans case cooler!
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Installing 3.0 headers and hit a snag with the trans case cooler!
Has anyone installed Thorleys on their 3.0 with an auto trans? Ive got all my old crap torn out, drivers side done and have hit a snag with the passenger side. The directions say to move the transfer case cooler back, well thats great but there are no brackets or holes to move it to! How the heck did you guys move yours and where did you put it? THe stock system came out pretty easy, all the studs came out and I got the cross over out through the drivers side fender with no problem. All of my lines and wires are re routed so all thats left is this transfer case cooler and Ill be ready to wrap this up. HELP!!!! Any pictures would be great, Ive been searching with no luck
#2
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I installed mine without any issues, but im a 5 speed... heh i've never heard of anyone putting headers on the automatic.. :/ maybe if you post pictures of your set up, i can help?
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on the pass side frame rail right where the header comes down there is a small cooler for my transfer case, the header is hitting it and the directions just say to move it rearwards, well.... how without a new bracket are you supposed to do this!!! I dont have my camera here, Im going to see if I can rig something up to finish the job and them come back to the cooler!!! What a pain to come this far and hit this little snag!
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Any header owners that can chime in Ive got annother question
Ive hit the point in the day that Im stopping! I cant get the crush sleeve to keep the copper pipe tight on the header where the reed valve hooks on, Ive cranked it as tight as I can and I can still pull the freaking pipe out, so untill I ether hear back from Thorley or get a bigger freaking wrench Im at a standstill... How tight did you have to crank the crush nuts before they bit into the copper tube? Other than that I just need to figure out the transfer case cooler and how they expect it to be moved to clear the pipe and still cool anything, am I supposed to drill my frame and put self tapping screws in or what?
#5
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I have headers on my '88 3.0. with auto tranny.
I unbolted the cooler. Loosened the fittings/hoses and spun the cooler around toward the rear, and bolted it to my emergency brake bracket. The stock hoses are long enough.
I tilted it top forward to catch some airflow while moving.
I unbolted the cooler. Loosened the fittings/hoses and spun the cooler around toward the rear, and bolted it to my emergency brake bracket. The stock hoses are long enough.
I tilted it top forward to catch some airflow while moving.
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PM Sent! That would work fine for me, I didnt want to drill the frame and remount the bracket, a picture would be great!! Anyone know about the crush sleeves? I double checked and I have it all in the way it came out of the box, either Im just not cranking them tight enough or Ive got an issue! Thanks again for the input! ~Matt
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#8
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Like the previous post, I flipped the cooler around towards the rear. I found a threaded hole in the frame that I bolted the bracket on the cooler to. It is only bolted down with one bolt, but has stayed put for three years now. It was not as clean as I may have wanted, but, it has not given me any problems. I could get you pictures tomorrow, too late tonight.
As for the crush sleeve, I just put the smack down on the thing, and it tightened up. The one problem I have is the nut that attaches the riser to the EGR valve always comes loose. Just today I was rebuilding my power steering pump and noticed it had backed off and had falled down on the header nut, again. Damn thing, I really wrench on that thing, but it always comes loose after a few months.
As for the crush sleeve, I just put the smack down on the thing, and it tightened up. The one problem I have is the nut that attaches the riser to the EGR valve always comes loose. Just today I was rebuilding my power steering pump and noticed it had backed off and had falled down on the header nut, again. Damn thing, I really wrench on that thing, but it always comes loose after a few months.
#9
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Finally crawled under my 4Runner....even though my back hurts! For some pics.
See cooler just ahead of the gas tank.
The front lines are bent steel tubes from the Toyota Factory. I think I reversed the tubes to make the switch. I didn't want to try and bend any factory tubes.
.
See cooler just ahead of the gas tank.
The front lines are bent steel tubes from the Toyota Factory. I think I reversed the tubes to make the switch. I didn't want to try and bend any factory tubes.
.
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I just kinda out on the other side of the frame rail. Not a very good idea IMO lol, not very good airflow and if i were to ever do rock crawling it could possibly get snagged, but nonetheless 40k, including a roadtrip across the US, nothing has gone wrong.
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I would not say it "required" one, you can do it just fine without by loosening the connections, flipping the thing backwards, and finding some place to bolt it down. It has worked fine for me, three years on.
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Thanks for the pictures and the info!! I was thinking I had to leave the stock bracket on it but Ill just flip it and mount it back to the frame or parking brake bracket! I haven't changed the trans case fluid in a few years so maybe Ill just drain it ahead of time.. What did you guys use to torque the crust sleeves on the pass side header? My Thorleys came with metal sleeves that I cant get to crush tight, Ill put some thread lock on the upper threads to keep them from coming loose but I cant get them to get tight at all!
#14
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This is three years past at this point, so my memory is foggy.
As I recall I just got on it with a large combination wrench and cinched it down. I did have trouble getting it to cinch down ,as I remember check it a few times to see if it had tightened, but was still loose. Mine are the Downey headers, but they are basicly the same design, as I understand it.
I've tried thread locker, but I think I need to find some high temp stuff, as it does not work for me.
Good luck,
Mike
As I recall I just got on it with a large combination wrench and cinched it down. I did have trouble getting it to cinch down ,as I remember check it a few times to see if it had tightened, but was still loose. Mine are the Downey headers, but they are basicly the same design, as I understand it.
I've tried thread locker, but I think I need to find some high temp stuff, as it does not work for me.
Good luck,
Mike
#15
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I had the same problem when I installed my LCE headers on my 3.0. I ended up cutting a piece of steel about 2" wide and about 10" long. I welded nuts on the backside to allow the cooler bracket to bolt to the piece of steel. I then drilled holes through the steel so I could use the existing mounting holes but shift the cooler about 3-4" backwards.
Hopefully that makes sense. I have a huge caffine headache right now.
Jason
Hopefully that makes sense. I have a huge caffine headache right now.
Jason
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I can't quite remember about the crush sleeve, something was wierd.....like you only needed one of the two crush sleeves from Thorley on mine (to be installed on the header) and you needed to reuse the upper stock crush washer for the EGR??? I cracked my EGR doing it wrong....
Last edited by SkiRig; 05-26-2010 at 09:32 AM.
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Finally crawled under my 4Runner....even though my back hurts! For some pics.
See cooler just ahead of the gas tank.
The front lines are bent steel tubes from the Toyota Factory. I think I reversed the tubes to make the switch. I didn't want to try and bend any factory tubes.
.
See cooler just ahead of the gas tank.
The front lines are bent steel tubes from the Toyota Factory. I think I reversed the tubes to make the switch. I didn't want to try and bend any factory tubes.
.
#18
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I can't quite remember about the crush sleeve, something was wierd.....like you only needed one of the two crush sleeves from Thorley on mine (to be installed on the header) and you needed to reuse the upper stock crush washer for the EGR??? I cracked my EGR doing it wrong....
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