Adk_Yota

Installed BJ spacers on my 94 4x4 pickup this past weekend. Jacked the truck up today after work and noticed that the upper control arms rub on the inside of the tires at full droop. when the truck is on the ground theres about 1/2" or less gap between the the tires and UCA. I have yet to get an alignment still want to crank the torsion bars a lil bit. I'm running stock rims and 235/75-15 tires. The wheels right now have noticeable positive camber. If i go to get an alignment and get the wheels straightened out it seems the tires will be touching the UCA. I plan in the next week or so to order new rims and 31x10.5-15 tires...should i get wheel spacers until i get my new wheels and tires? anyone else run into this problem?

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

Isn't the fix for that to get the grinder out and make the bad metal go away? Seems I heard that was the fix for a few that had a rubbing issue. ZUK

Adk_Yota

ZUK- I was thinking that....didn't get a good look at how much material i can safely remove. I'll have to check it out tomorrow at work. I did a bit of searching and didn't come across anyone else having this problem. Also got some pics and measurements from doing the ZUK mod saturday...I'll try to get them posted soon

ZUK

iTrader: (1)

sounds good.... I found this while searching...a cut/paste..


DISCLAIMER:
4Crawler Offroad assumes the buyer to be the final manufacturer of his or her vehicle. Use this product at your own risk. 4Crawler Offroad assumes no responsibility for any damages of any conceivable sort to anything caused or not caused by this product.
The user is responsible for ensuring shock fitment.
Some cutting and/or grinding will be required to install these spacers, consult the installation notes for details.
Tires on rims with the stock backspacing of 4.75" might have tire rubbing issues with 31" or smaller tires on the 4WD models.
For 2WD, measure clearance to the wheels and tires and compare with the desired new wheel/tire combination.
This is dependent on tire geometry, most clear but a few don't.
This can be often be remedied by filing/trimming the end of the a-arm lip and/or using rim spacers.
A 1/4" wheel spacer is also an option for fitting stock wheels with clearance issues.
Rims with 4.5" or less of backspacing clear all tires known so far.
What is backspacing and how do I know what backspacing I have? Click here to find out...
Spacers are CNC machined of 6061-T6 aluminum.
Hardware consists of M8-1.25x80mm class 12.9 socket cap-screws, class 10.9 steel nuts, stainless steel nylon locking nuts, and flat washers.
Use of Loctite on hardware is not necessary when using a nylock jam nut but can be used.
Some trimming of the upper control arm is required.
Either stock extension bump-stops or shimmed bump-stops (low profile only) are required with this spacers in order control max droop angles. Failure to do so could result in damage to CV joints or other components.
A front end alignment WILL BE REQUIRED after installation of this product
The spacers, by their very nature, will push the wheels outward at the top, changing the camber angle.
The caster change will affect the "toe in" adjustment.
Both the camber angle and toe will need to be restored to factory specification with a proper alignment after installing the spacers.
But once aligned, you should not need more frequent alignments with the ball joint spacers installed.

AxleIke

FYI, it is the stock rims. Mine did the same thing. I seriously trimmed my a arms though, so I could run 35x12.5's on the stock alloys.

You can trim them out, you can get new wheels with more backspacking, or you can get a spacer to set them out a bit.

JamesD

Or you could go to Advance Auto and get 1/4" wheel spacers. Worked perfectly. They are only $20 or get them from Scummit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-2376/

James

xxxtreme22r

^^^^ If using those type of spacers, you might wanna look into a 1/4" longer set of lugs as well. Don't ask me what size I don't know.

Adk_Yota

I'm definitely getting new wheels and tires soon.... I'll try grinding a bit tomorrow and see how much that helps. Although I'm thinking buy a set of 1/4" spacers for a quick fix.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Yep, 1/4" spacers are usually what you need:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ml#BackSpacing

With steel wheels, you can usually run those on the stock studs.

JamesD

You do not need longer studs. I ran the factory aluminum SR5 wheels and it had plenty of thread for the lug nuts. Steel aftermarket has plenty as well. No need for longer studs. The reason I got the spacers because the factory SR5 wheels were rubbing on the upper control arm and I wanted to keep the stock look.

James

xxxtreme22r

IMO a 1/4" loss in lug thread usually isn't a good thing. But then again that's my autocross/drag strip stuff coming back. Anytime you ran spacers they made you use longer studs. IIRC that only applied if running slicks.

Adk_Yota

Did a bit a of grinding today...didn't want to take too much off...its not rubbing on the small lip of of the UCA but more above that where it almost curves to the top of the UCA....need to order new wheels soon! the spacers will be a temporary fix...my studs seem long enough to run a 1/4" spacer. don't plan to rally the truck hard if i'm running the spacers. measured the stock steel wheel...looked like 4.75 back spacing. going to look for a set of 15x8's with 3.75 BS