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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

injectors?

Old 12-22-2008, 11:11 AM
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injectors?

my truck is a 88 3.0 and it starts great cold and runs fine.....on a cold morning it starts in about a quarter turn. however when it gets warm and is shut off for a few minutes it has to crank longer to start...probably 10 seconds. i have checked a lot of common things such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs and wires, rotor cap and button, ect.... i have notice after it starts warm if i get out and go to the exhuast it smells very strong of gas..do you think that i could have one or more injectors leaking after they are warm? or what other ideas do you have? thanks.
Old 12-24-2008, 06:19 PM
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Nobody got an idea?
Old 12-24-2008, 06:52 PM
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It's possible.

There's a fellow around here on YT that seems to be real good at diagnosing injector issues. Don't remember his name offhand, but there's a thread he's been giving some input in. I'll try and find it, post his latest post for you (on injectors), and then I'd suggest you PM him.
Old 12-24-2008, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by misterzee
When a 4-banger loses a cylinder totally, it runs BAD. You'd hardly be able to drive it..... there could be an injector that doesnt close, so it leaks off all the fuel after you stop your engine... it takes a little work to isolate that problem though.... the cold start injector, or one of the cylinder injectors are the only path for raw fuel to enter the crankcase on the EFI engine.
Originally Posted by yota4runna
Bingo! After driving it, let it sit. Then pull the spark plugs. Hook up your remote starter switch and crank it over while you watch the spark plug holes. Bet you see gasoline shoot out of a cylinder.
This is part of the dialogue in the said thread. Contact yota4runna. I've read a number of his posts in other threads about injector issues, and he seems to be on the ball about it. Learned a bit from, I did.

If no luck with him, try abecedarian or DeathCougar.
Old 12-24-2008, 08:19 PM
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You may be having an issue with the cold start injector coming on during a warm start, flooding the engine. Next time you go for a warm start, before you do it disconnect the electrical connector to the cold start injector and see if it starts more easily. If it does, test the cold start time switch:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/97colds.pdf
(the guide is for a 93, but the 88 is similar enough)
Old 12-25-2008, 12:23 AM
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Well, there you are. Must've been distracted with them Freak'n'beans.
Old 12-25-2008, 09:52 AM
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thanks for the responses guys....i will give a try on the cold start injector, that sounds like a good canidate...and if not i'll try to pm him for some info...thanks again....i'll keep ya posted.
Old 12-26-2008, 07:05 AM
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well i checked the cold start injector....i pulled it out and cranked if over cold and it sprayed fuel....i put it back in started the truck and let it warm up to normal temp. then i let it set for about 20-25 minutes (that's when i get the hard starts) and pulled the cold start injector back out and cranked the engine over and no spray from it...so i think this eliminates it as a possiblity.
Old 12-26-2008, 12:13 PM
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so to re-cap:
1) starts right up cold
2) takes ~10 seconds cranking to start when warmed
3) cold start injector sprays when the engine is cold
4) cold start injector does not spray when the engine has warmed
5) strong smell of fuel after warm starting

#1 suggests fuel pressure is not bleeding off- if it was going to bleed off, overnight night should be long enough
#3 also suggests fuel pressure is not bleeding off
#3, #4 suggest cold start injector and time switch are working properly
#5 indicates too much fuel being injected when warm

before tearing the injectors out and having them pattern and flow checked,
--check the throttle position sensor (this is intended primarilyfor the 22re, but there is a chart for the 3vze as well):
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...#TPSAdjustment
--check and adjust the timing if necessary (with the engine running, short TE1 and E1 terminals in the diagnostic connector then adjust the distributor as necessary)
--check the coolant temp sensor (I don't have info for the 3VZE so maybe someone will chime in)
--check the air flow meter (again, I don't have infor for the 3VZE so maybe someone will chime in... hint, hint.... thook)
Old 12-26-2008, 12:33 PM
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Hehe.....there's a sticky for the '93 FSM on the front page, Abe....that covers this.

(Go ahead........smack me :0)

FSM guide for testing VAM...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...33volumeai.pdf
Pay particular attention to the air temp sensor

Testing the coolant temp sensor...
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...40engineco.pdf
Resistance should drop evenly as coolant temp rises.

3vze TPS procedure.....
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...34throttle.pdf
Though, I don't think the TPS is faulty here.
Old 12-26-2008, 12:39 PM
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I don't necessarily think it is either, but like I said, before pulling the intake apart check the things on the outside.
Old 12-26-2008, 03:44 PM
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Certainly never hurts...
Old 12-27-2008, 04:13 PM
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ok guys.....i'll try some of that stuff before i mess with the injectors....i sure appreciate everyones input and i will keep ya posted as i get a chance to work on things...thanks again
Old 01-01-2009, 05:40 PM
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ok....i have tested the vam with an ohm meter and it test per the fsm...so does the tps, coolant temp sens., but when i tested the coil per the fsm i could not get any reading on my meter....so does this mean that i may have a faulty or weak coil causing hard starting at warm temps?
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