soul2skin

I can put it in drive,2, or 1 and pretty much go nowhere or go real slow. I checked fluid levels they seemed really low so I put 2 quarts in. I followed instructions ..warmed up vehicle to operating temp shifted into all gears it felt as if it locked however if you give it any gas it barely goes. However if I put it in reverse I go just fine.

so I think the best option beside rebuilding a trany and I have never done this before would be to do a 5 speed manual swap. What vehicles can I pull one from that are an easy swap and what kind of mess am I looking at transfer swap or is it integral as well? its a 91 4runner 3vz auto at the moment.

justin_4runner

soul, if u do a little looking there are many write ups on doing and parts needed for a 5 speed swap. also u will be looking for 89-95 4runner or truck trans,

parts list,

trans, drive shaft 2 inchs longer then ur auto one , clutch, flywheel, bolts for flywheel, and pressure plate, pedal assy out of donor truck, master and slave cly. hard and soft line, boots for shifter into cab, little wiring,some people like to also change the ecu. i didnt do it, if u look up my name for threads started u will find write ups on the wiring. if u dont swap ecu,

soul2skin

well this is my daily and to be honest I have to get it back on the road asap ... so esecially after seeing that list of needed parts it would be impossible to pull off in a couple of days so Im now think a first time to rebuild an auto tranny.. yea

I looked up a rebuild kit from advanced auto and its 275$ for Pro-King rebuild kit.

is there a better complete kit to get ?

justin_4runner

u might want to do a little checking and that before u just rebuild it. it could be something else that is causing the issue and just rebuilding it might not fix it, u might want to look at the fsm on the auto trans and go threw the fsm to pin point what is wrong. fsm link below...


http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

rustypigeon

Sounds like you have a slipping Forward Clutch. This clutch is engaged in all forward gears. The slipping may be caused by a worn out clutch pack, or low hydraulic pressure to the clutch pack. The low hydraulic pressure could be the result of a bad o-ring in the Forward Clutch itself or a leak somewhere in the valve body.

soul2skin

try to test the lockup soleniod at the moment I am getting reading of .020-.025 resistance fsm says 11-15 ohm resistance but Im not sure which setting on the multimeter is the right one I used the basic or first one that makes noise when you touch the two leads together.

rustypigeon

Put the multimeter on the 200ohm setting. On this setting 15ohms would read directly as the number 15 on your multimeter. Do not use the continuity setting.

I don't think your solenoid valves are the problem. When you have a bad solenoid you generally have shifting problems in the gears related to that solenoid. Just to rule out the solenoids, you can easily to a "manual shifting test". Do this by disconnecting the solenoid connector to the transmission (just above the drivers side rear corner of the transmission oil pan), then manually shift through the gears. If you transmission is still slipping with the solenoid connector disconnected, you know the solenoids are not giving you the problem.

Edit to add... I see that you are testing the lock-up solenoid. This solenoid simply locks up the torque converter when you are on the road to increase fuel efficiency. A failure of the lock-up solenoid would not cause all the forward gears to slip, it would only cause poor fuel milelage as the torque converter clutch slips. In fact, the ECM will not even allow lock-up to occur when the engine is cold, it needs to be 158 degrees for lock-up to occur.

soul2skin

well code 64 is what the truck gave me and I did try the unpluging the solenoids and shifting .. it went into gear but still slip. Leads me to believe the clutches are burntdue to a blown seal considering I found fresh trany fliud on the pans.

R4unnerMan

I myself am having the same exact problem in my 90 3vze auto. I swapped trans out last June with one that "supposedly" had 100k on it. My last trans was doing the same thing that this one is starting to do. When cold/not driven it shudders sometimes and other times shifts very hard when putting in D and pressing the gas. As soon as it's driven a bit and warm it's completely fine. Fluids fine, not burnt. I checked out electrical. Tried unplugging the ETC and putting it in 4WD, all having the same outcome. I literally called everyone I could think of and they all say these a340e / H trannys are bullet proof. I was thinking about swapping a 5 speed into it but my search lead to alot of "dead end" write ups, not knowing what yrs are compatible etc etc. If I can see/read it I can do it. I don't really feel like trying to track down another a340e, put it in, and have it do the same thing again, so I am at a loss at this point..

93toyota4x4

If you happen to find out exactly what is causing this I would really like to know. I have a tranny sitting in my shed that I just pulled out of my truck last weekend because it was doing the exact same thing. I was given a free donor so the easiest solution for me was a swap but if it is something simple I can keep my other and fix it as a spare.

soul2skin

well in my case its at least a 1000$ in parts to pull a rebuild ...master kit , solenoid set and torque converter.... I believe all my forward clutches to be fried due to front seal blew and leaked trany fluid out.

But 4runner man your problem sounds like gunk in the valve train ... I think you could drop the pan and get to the vavle train , clean it up and recover performance but should do a rebuild anyway.