Ohio4Runner

Last night, I got to my 4Runner at the park-n-ride well after dark. It has been working fine for weeks, no issues at all, starting right up every time. Well, I opened the door, the overhead light came on just fine, and nothing seemed abnormal. I turned the key, and, nothing. No clicking, no cranking, and the lights dimmed, the clock reset, everything went black. I removed the key, sat for a minute, and the lights came back up, the CD player spit out the CD, so I put the key back in, nothing clicked or cranked, and everything went dim.

I will be having it towed home today and will begin trying to figure out the issue ASAP. I plan to check to make sure the crankshaft will rotate, and the battery seems to have some juice, but am I thinking right to start with the ignition switch? I guess my first option is to jump the starter from the battery directly and see if it will turn over that way, but what else should I look at?

Also, a noob question, to save me a few minutes: I haven't looked around to find the starter on the 3VZE, where is it located? If anyone has a FSM link handy, it would be appreciated.

Thanks all, much appreciated.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

starter is gonna be on either the left or right side of the transmission.

FSM link: http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Ohio4Runner

OK, so I went back to get the truck, and tried the key one more time. Of course, it started up immediately (although with a roar, because some enterprising young gentleman stole my catalytic converter during the night, but that will be another headache).

So the battery and starter are NOT the problem. I will look at the ignition switch and the grounds first.

But another piece to the puzzle is that in the previous weeks, my emergency brake light has been coming on as I am driving, then go off, intermittently. Would this be a switch problem, or does it indicate a bad ground on a circuit common to the ignition switch, or some other source of trouble? Where should I look?

snobdds

I would not start with the ignition switch. It sounds to me like a weak battery. It could also be your alternator is starting to fizzle out.

Also, always show what year and model your 4 runner is. The earlier year models had the power run through the ignition switch which sometimes burned up the contacts. The later models did not do this and therefore ignition switches tend to never wear out.

Take it to a parts store to have them test stuff. Don't just start throwing parts at it until you know what is wrong.

BMcEL

This is almost certainly your brake fluid level sensor on the reservoir cap.

As for the starting issues, there are a few possibilities. Use the FSM and start going through the starter circuit. FWIW, I have 250k on my original starter and the ONLY issues I've had with it were due to poor connections or weak batteries.

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

How do your battery cables look? Corrosion, loose? Get a voltmeter and check for voltage drops at the terminal and battery post for both negative and positive sides, if it checks good, then check the voltage drop from the positive terminal on the battery down to the positive lug on the starter, the starter is on the passenger side bottom of the transmission, it should have a black plastic cap covering the postive cable. I had the same issues with my wife's 4runner and come to find out the negative terminal was cracked on the inside causing intermittent contact where it would sometimes start and sometimes do exactly what you are describing, I found it with the voltage drop test.

Ohio4Runner

It is a 1995 3VZE. Is that what is meant by "one of the older ones"?

I am not sure about alternator/battery. Like I said, I returned the next day, having done nothing to it, and it started up immediately and strongly. I would think if the charge was gone from a bad battery or not being recharged, it wouldn't fire right up again.

I'll check for corroded cables and report back.

TNRabbit

x2 on the above.

Also, it might be time to replace the starter contacts (@ $22 from dealer or cheaper elsewhere). The Denso starters seem to last FOREVER if you simply replace the contacts. It's an easy job EXCEPT for pulling the starter out~ which is a PITA

I'd plan on those starter contacts, but you still need to go through ALL major electrical contacts, remove, clean & reassemble them.

Also, the starter is not really on the BOTTOM of the passenger side tranny; it's more toward the top. You'll need about 6 ratchet extensions to get the front bolt through the bottom valance at the front of the truck, and about 3 of those extensions to get at the rear bolt. REMOVE THE POSITIVE BATTERY TERMINAL BEFORE YOU START!!

lofreqjeff

I had a similar issue with my 89 4Runner with the 3.Slo - it would occasionally just not turn over, but mine would click once and everything would go dim and when I let off the key everything would light back up. After a while it would fire right up like any other time. I knew it wasn't my battery or starter because they were both brand new. I read somewhere on here about the ignition switch - I replaced that I have not had that problem since - that was 2 years ago.

I'd assume that is a seperate issue. While it could be low fluid in the master cylinder or the sensor in the cap, another thing to check is the parking brake adjustment assuming you have the pull & turn style like I do on mine.- my light comes on from time to time and I just push in the parking brake handle a bit and it goes off - My parking brake cable needs to be adjusted to add more tension to the handle to keep it in place and keep it pushing on the button that sets off the dash light. If there is not enough tension on the cable, the tab that pushes the button for the light will not be depressed enough.

In this image, part 46114 is the 'tab' that pushes the button at the end of the shaft (91651-60818) to turn the light off when the parking brake is released. If the cable is loose, occasionally the button will not be pushed in far enough to turn the light off.

tj884Rdlx

first thing's first. confirm your battery and alternator are ok. this is an easy one if you have the meter to do it, or go to the local auto parts store that does it for free.

do this first, to eliminate them before you go chasing the other things, and here's why:

1. you said the e-brake light was coming on. i have had too many vehicles light up the red dashboard lights in weird fashion, as in the ALT light, BRAKE light, etc. could light up with no rhyme or reason, but it was an indication of an alternator not charging back properly. of course, check the brake fluid too, because that's what the light is meant for. but if the fluid is full, it could be a clue suggesting the alt.

2. you said the truck's lights dimmed and the clock went off when you tried to start the car. that's an indication of low voltage from the battery. you could have a bad cell in the battery, and they're easy to check. so just rule it out as a cause.

with that said, it could very well be an intermittent starter problem. i have this problem with my own starter. it will only give me a hassle maybe once every few MONTHS, where turning the key does NOTHING, much like a dead battery condition. one dead spot in the starter can come up like green on a roulette wheel, as in very randomly and not too often. if you can get the condition to duplicate, that's the best time to test the starter, by having someone hold the key while you give the starter some whacks with a hammer or wrench. eventually one of those whacks will bump the starter out of its dead spot, and it will fire up just fine. mine does this. i've just been procrastinating because i can pop the clutch to start mine when it goes, and it's very rare.

of course, everything everyone else has said is good and valid. i just wanted to suggest checking these items first, as they're pretty easy to check and rule out. good luck!

BMcEL

The charge AND brake lights come on when the alternator begins to fail. It is my understanding the OP just has the brake light coming on intermittently.

The intermittent brake light (especially if it comes on dimmer than when you pull the handbrake) is indicative of the brake fluid level or the sensor itself. AFAIK it is pretty uncommon for the handbrake switch to fail or need adjustment whereas the brake fluid level sensor is a known issue.