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Ignition/fuel cold start issues

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Old 02-14-2013, 09:21 AM
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Ignition/fuel cold start issues

I have a 1991 pick up, 3VZE auto 4x4. Here lies the issue. After truck has sat for 8 hours or so it will crank and not start. I do not have spark or injector pulse. Codes 12, 14 and 41. When cranking the fuel pump is getting power, verified at the fp terminal in the diag connector. There is fuel pressure. Here is were i do not understand... If I pull off the intake boot and spray carb cleaner in the throttle body. Put it all back together it starts. WTF? If i let it run for 20 seconds. Shut it off, now i have spark and injector pulse. works fine all day. Sit at work for 9 hours, I loose spark and pulse. What am I missing that causes the carb cleaner to get it to start???? Works everytime. No spark... Little carb cleaner in the t-body and vroom. Please help
Old 02-15-2013, 02:14 AM
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Not checking the layout, but.. If it's like the 22re your distributor lays next to the intake and you could be bumping the sensor(ne/cam-sensor), or the ignitor wires. Or the ground wires. or maybe your battery connection.

What have you tested?
Old 02-15-2013, 08:39 AM
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I believe that I have checked all of my grounds. I have removed them and cleaned them. Removed the igniter and cleaned it and the plug to it. My distributor is in about the same place as a 22r. However per an awesome post I found on this sight I have checked the 3 pickups and they all spec out. When the engine has not ran for 6 plus hours it looses injector pulse and spark. Tap beat wiggle cus I can't seem to get it until I squirt carb cleaner in the intake. Ok follow me on this. This morning I had my noid light and my spark plug tester installed in #2 cylinder. No pulse or spark. Spray the carb cleaner in the intake and had my son crank it. I didn't get pulse until the engine started to spin a little faster??? Besides the VMAF does it have a trigger sensor when cranking? Not that it has started only for 5 seconds all is well until I leave work tonighg
Old 02-15-2013, 10:15 AM
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There aren't any sensors downstream of the throttle body in a 3VZ-E. There's absolutely no way with no spark that your engine would start.

I would say that perhaps some of the plugs are not getting spark but some are, which is why the extra "fuel" in the system allows it to start. Check your spark plug wires as well as your cap and rotor on top of the distributor. You can check the spark plug wires with a tester (little light that blinks every time it gets a spark) you can pick up for like $8. The cap and rotor on these distributors ($20 I think?) don't last forever so it may be time for a new one anyway. The rotor be rusted, worn or bent, causing it to connect with some of the wire connections but not others. It's a very simple part to change.

I'd start there unless you've already checked/replaced these items (don't buy new spark plug wires on a hunch, they last a long time so test 'em). If you have already, the next culprit to check would be the VAFM and the distributor. Check it per the FSM specs using a multi-meter:

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...92volumeai.pdf.

Let us know if you try all these and you still have nothing.
Old 02-19-2013, 09:17 AM
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Ok finally able to get around to this. On my distributor G and G2 there is no resistance or open. I removed the cap and looked at that pick up. It is damaged on the top and the inner cooper wires are starting to come apart. Now I no there is a problem there. Would this cause my issue? Once the truck is running it is great for the rest of the day. Im shopping for a distributor already, but like everyone else money is tight. :-)
Thank you in advance for all you help
Old 02-19-2013, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 913micks
...On my distributor G and G2 there is no resistance or open. I removed the cap and looked at that pick up. It is damaged on the top and the inner cooper wires are starting to come apart. Now I no there is a problem there. Would this cause my issue?
Probably. But you know you're going to have to fix it anyway (or it's going to leave you by the side of the road), so this is not a "throwing parts at it" problem.

A distributor is $145-$252 at RockAuto. You can use that as a guide when shopping.

PS The phrase "no resistance" could be interpreted as "zero resistance". Which is the opposite of what I'm pretty sure you mean when you say "open" (infinite resistance). (But the spec is around 200 ohms, so both zero and open are bad.)

Last edited by scope103; 02-19-2013 at 11:34 AM.
Old 02-20-2013, 01:52 PM
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Thank you for the correction, your right it was open! I have installed a new Distributor and this chilly 36 degree morning she started right up.
Thank you for your help!!!
Old 02-20-2013, 03:19 PM
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I'll bet we're all wondering just how much a distributor (rebuilt?) costs out ... there?
Old 02-20-2013, 03:24 PM
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