BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

A while back I found a 4.56 IFS third with a TrueTrac on Craigslist. It was set up years ago by ZUK, but never put back in the guys truck.

I am getting ready to swap it out and have read how to remove the third on ZUK's site.

I am going to have to swap the tube over to the new diff, since it did not come with one. This sounds straight forward, but I am sure there will be surprises. I don't have ADD, so I don't have to deal with that.

What do I need to look out for/replace during the swap? Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Alberta4x

Swapping the tube is pretty straight forward once you have it out. If you haven't already, take a look at the four bolts that bolt the tube to the center section, they aren't hex bolts. Also, I had to buy new bolts because two of them broke when I did mine. Also while you have it all out, pop out the studs that the cv's attach to and replace them with regular bolts... makes life a lot easier

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

What type/size bolts are recommended to replace the studs on the cv's?

Alberta4x

Just ran outside to check, looks like I used 3/8"x1" grade 8 bolts. You need 12 bolts/nuts.

rattlewagon

You can use the stock bolts, just grind the splines off.

Alberta4x

^ that works too.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

Do I need to replace the C-clips I keep reading about? Any seals/gaskets I need to pick up from toyota?

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

I took a quick look this morning and all of the bolts seem to be hex bolts. Maybe they have been changed out before. I am not sure. I looked at the ones that connect the tube to the third member. Any insight on this.

Alberta4x

You don't need to replace any seals unless you already have problems with it leaking. No clips to replace either. I'm not sure if they used different style bolts from the factory for different years and stuff but in your case you're just lucky haha, you don't have to deal with the goofy looking bolts.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply. I looked at the new third today and noticed that it has a ADD label on it. I don't think it matters since I am putting my non ADD tube on it. Is this correct?

Everything on the new third looks new. I am assuming it is since it was never installed after ZUK got done with it.

Alberta4x

Yeah you bet, it doesn't make a difference if it was originally ADD or not, they're all the same mechanically except for the tubes which can be swapped very easily. Another thing I just thought of, while you're working in that area, you might as well extend your breather up higher into the engine bay so that you don't get any water in your nice new diff. Its really simple, unscrew the breather, pick up some fittings from the store that screw in the breather hole and have a hose barb on the other end, and use something like fuel line to raise the breather. I believe I used 1/8 NPT fittings with 1/4 hose barb on the other end.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

I have a Trail-Gear breather waiting to go on. It contracts and expands, so no lines to route. I will try it and see how it works.

rattlewagon

^^ They work pretty well. Im runing it (on the back) . Took a whole 3 min to install. No complaints thus far.

However, its pretty cramped in the front, IIRC the breather sits very close to the bottom of the oil pan, not sure if the big TG breather is going to fit.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

If it does not work I will put it on the back when I put in my Aussie.

Alberta4x

I've looked at those before and I've been contemplating trying them out... do they seem like they are pretty tough? The last thing I would want is to have it rip off or get a cut in it while I'm going through mud.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

They are a lot thicker and heavier than I thought they would be. Seem to pretty tough. Then again I have not put it on yet.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

Well.....It came out today, but I don't think the new one is going in today. Those studs made life hell for a little while. I can't imagine putting the new one back in with those in there.

Does anyone have any tips or tricks on how to get those studs out easily? I don't want to mess anything up. I would like to take them out before I assemble everything on the new third.

Thanks in advance.

Alberta4x

Put a socket on the bolt head side of the flange and rest it on a table, then three or so good hits on the threaded side should pop it right out.

BeMiceElf

iTrader: (1)

Tried that. I am going to take them to my friend tomorrow who has a press.

peow130

Just hit them with a BFH. Chances are, you'll be better off in the long run with new bolts and some nyloc nuts..

Then again, i never had any problems with the studs.