IFS Steering Upgrades?
#42
Contributing Member
Thats not a bad plan, but in researching my own steering build, I've found that people running heims on a road driven truck are having longevity issues. Maybe not.
I'm just going to use FJ-80 TRE's for mine with DOM and tube inserts and call it good. Still deciding if I want to machine a full center link, or build my own and just machine the rod end attachments. Going to check a place out this week that may be able to do the center out of some billet.
I'm just going to use FJ-80 TRE's for mine with DOM and tube inserts and call it good. Still deciding if I want to machine a full center link, or build my own and just machine the rod end attachments. Going to check a place out this week that may be able to do the center out of some billet.
#43
Registered User
Quit showing off. lol
Yeah something like that, anyway travis, while I have you in my own thread to highjack, Do you know (I am pretty sure you do) which class your truck is legal in?
Also how does that thing drive on the road with prerunner bypass style shocks? I heard theres no real in between using street/trail shock vrs baja shocks. one doesnt work well with the other etc.
Yeah something like that, anyway travis, while I have you in my own thread to highjack, Do you know (I am pretty sure you do) which class your truck is legal in?
Also how does that thing drive on the road with prerunner bypass style shocks? I heard theres no real in between using street/trail shock vrs baja shocks. one doesnt work well with the other etc.
#44
Registered User
My truck is legal for a lot of desert racing classes. 7, 1400, 1450, but I am going to race in class 1500. It's a leaf sprung class that has limited front suspension options. I will be racing V8 Fords, but I can beat em'
As far as the street ride goes, you're pretty much right. A truck built to hammer through the desert is going to ride like a tank on the street. You can compromise, but you're going to have a truck that only rides ok on the street, and is too soft for the dirt.
As far as the street ride goes, you're pretty much right. A truck built to hammer through the desert is going to ride like a tank on the street. You can compromise, but you're going to have a truck that only rides ok on the street, and is too soft for the dirt.
#45
Registered User
Depends on who you talk to. There are desert guys that swap out all their heims after every race. I have heims on my truck that are 2 years old that are still tight. I personally am willing to sacrifice longevity for strength. (I don't really have a choice)
#46
Contributing Member
My concern would be colorado winters with mag chlor and other crap getting in and loosening up the joints.
Cool set up though!
#47
Registered User
I don't know what Mag Clor is, but the weather or chemicals will not loosen up any joints. If anything the cold weather would contract the metal and make them tighter (if you are talking about the heim itself). They are bolted to the center link and spindle with grade 8 bolts. The inner is a 3/4, and the outer is a 5/8. Another trick is to shank the bolts, meaning that there is no thread in the actual heim itself.
#48
Contributing Member
No, Mag chlor is a nasty corrosive that is used to melt the roads out here.
What I've been reading suggests that dirt and slop make their way into the heim itself and degrade the teflon liner that sits between the uniball and the outer casing. This allows the uniball to loosen up inside the liner and have slop.
Now, I have no idea if thats the case or not. It sounds like you are not having any experiences like that, which makes me happy, as heims would make my install SO much easier!
What I've been reading suggests that dirt and slop make their way into the heim itself and degrade the teflon liner that sits between the uniball and the outer casing. This allows the uniball to loosen up inside the liner and have slop.
Now, I have no idea if thats the case or not. It sounds like you are not having any experiences like that, which makes me happy, as heims would make my install SO much easier!
#50
Registered User
Not following that part. How do you get the tie rods to attach if you don't weld anything? Drilling into the DOM and mounting a tie rod end into it is going to weaken it, and cause the tie rod end to fail prematurely, as they are designed to have the entire length of the taper in contact with the metal they go into.
He said tie-rod, and in my mind i thought relay rod... Oh well.
Idk why i said Relay rod, i meant tie-rods..
typo.
Last edited by peow130; 01-13-2010 at 07:40 PM.
#52
Contributing Member
#53
Contributing Member
Thought about that a bit. Issue there is I'd be concerned about the boot doing more to trap moisture than keep out the elements, and causing the joint to rust out badly. Lots of good thoughts though, I've gotta do some more research now!
#55
Registered User
I have no clue on the boot deal for heims, but wouldn't that be awesome to invent huh?
For further reference here is TC's tie rods:
Last edited by xxxtreme22r; 01-14-2010 at 12:43 PM.
#56
Contributing Member
TC's is a combo of round tube and plate welded to the existing centerlink/relay rod (same thing).
Its a cast unit, so I'm not interested in welding to it. I could likely heat and cool it properly for welding, but the risk with cast and my steering isn't worth it for me. If that cracks apart, its going to mean a very serious crash.
Its a cast unit, so I'm not interested in welding to it. I could likely heat and cool it properly for welding, but the risk with cast and my steering isn't worth it for me. If that cracks apart, its going to mean a very serious crash.
#59
Contributing Member
The idler, pitman, center link, knuckles, and arms on the ifs are all cast steel. Thats the major bummer part about modifying the steering.
#60
Contributing Member