Stewbaca

All idler pulleys on my 86 4Runner are the same right? So the bearings would all be same spec too? Going to replace them all on my belt swap coming up. Thanks for answering a trivial question that could've just as easily been googled!

Stewbaca

[QUOTE=Stewbaca;52356748]All idler pulleys on my 86 4Runner are the same right? So the bearings would all be same spec too? Going to replace them all on my belt swap coming up. Thanks for answering a trivial question that could've just as easily been googled![/QUOTE

found my answer. Sorry

RAD4Runner

[QUOTE=Stewbaca;52356902]Hi Stewbaca,
Mind sharing what you have learned? I'm also researching whether to simply replace the bearing for power steering idler pulley or replace the whole pulley itself. TIA!

RAD4Runner

Oh, thanks anyway.... Found answer from Co_94_PU's from a thread here:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post52392633

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

If there is no play in the bearings and it's just dirt and noise you are concerned with the bearings can easily be cleaned and repacked with grease. I've done this before and they were like new and lasted years.

jakey poo

Do you have a good write up on how to do this? One of mine is beginning to squeal but I don't notice any play in it.

se7enine

iTrader: (2)

I think I did one a long time ago but the pictures are gone along with my Photobucket account. It's pretty straight forward though. Remove the lock ring and either press or punch out the bearing with the correct size socket. Then carefully remove the rubber seals on the bearing, they bend easily. Clean bearing with wire brush and brake cleaner. Spray out debris with compressed air and repack once dry with some good wheel bearing grease. Re-install the bearings side shields and press back into pulley and re-install lock ring.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

google...

You will find charts with lube quantities vs bearing size ect.

Just remember typically they aren't intended to be serviced like this.

RAD4Runner

Thanks, guys!

We have discussed this on separate thread, but the title of this particular thread that Stewbaca started is more likely to show up when one searches for "idler pulley" or "idler pulley bearing" so best to put pertinent info here.
Thanks, Co_94_PU, Millball,Terry, and Davebarbier, et al for sharing your info.
If replacing bearing use 6204-2rs double-sealed bearing. Available online local parts stores or Fastenal.

22RE Performance has youtube video on bearing replacement procedure:

(Yotatech search is not very helpful when searching for phrases so I'm starting to put keywords WITHOUT SPACES on my posts, like people do with hashtags)
keywords: idlerpulley, idlerpulleybearing, powersteeringpumpidler, powersteeringpumpidlerpulleybearing, TensionerPulley, TensionerPulleybearing

RAD4Runner

Ingenious and scientific method!
From this post

keywords: idlerpulley, idlerpulleybearing, powersteeringpumpidler, powersteeringpumpidlerpulleybearing, TensionerPulley, TensionerPulleybearing

RAD4Runner

NAPA 6204 costs $30-plus so I got the 6204-2rsl from Fastenal for $3, instead. "L" stands for light duty but since it's only an idler, I'm giving it a try.

The wire clip came out very easily. Using the vise-grips helped prevent it from flying uncontrollably.
I punched old bearing out with a 19-mm impact socket. Came out easy...


I cleaned inner surface of the pulley with scouring pad, and washed it well.
Bought a 1-inch pipe cap from Home Depot, in case the freezing and heating method above still needed some help. It fits just right, to contact outer race of the bearing...



TO FACILITATE INSTALLING THE NEW BEARING... Froze the new bearing while I did other errands (more than an hour in freezer):


Pre-heated the oven to 450-degrees and baked the pulley for 5 minutes.



Finally placed the frozen bearing into the baked pulley, but it did not drop in like in above post; However, it went in with A FEW LIGHT tapS of my mallet on the pipe cap.
(Getting the pulley red-hot with my backpacking stove may have helped, but I'd rather use more mechanical force (tapping) than fatigue the metal with too much heat).
Re-installed in the truck and it runs smooth without noise. Let's see how "light" the light-duty spec really is.

TOOLS USED:

• Long-nose vise-grips for taking the wire clip out.
• 12-mm socket and 6-inch extension for the tension adjustment screw. Extension is optional for convenience.
• 19-mm combination wrench for the locking nut on the face of the pulley.
• 19-mm impact wrench (or similar diameter tool) for punching out old bearing
• Cap oil filter wrench (Imperial PN 7414, that fits OEM oil filter), as platform for punching out old bearing.
• 1-inch G.I. pipe cap or similar diameter tool - just barely smaller than the 47mm -OD of the bearing- for pressing bearing in.
• Weighted mallet for hammering bearing in.

NOTES:

• DO NOT USE THE PN 38036 ($23 FROM O'REILLY). Bore of its 6203 bearing is too small, it will not fit the bushing on the idler stud/screw, the diameter of the pulley itself is smaller than stock, and the bearing is too thin for the rest of the hardware.

keywords: idlerpulleybearing, powersteering, powersteeringidlerpulleybearing, powersteeringtensioner

pimacdaddy

Great post as usual RAD4Runner. When you said to not use PN 38036, you mean the OEM part ? I am trying to retrieve P/N for this 22RE Perfomance sale

https://22reperformance.com/22re-ft-...replacing%20it.

coryc85

I bought a 6204 LLU Nachi bearing from Amazon, I paid $16.50 for it several years ago, but I see now on Amazon it is $6.30.

RAD4Runner

Tnx! Always happy to help fellow Yota owners.
Only DO NOT USE THE PN 38036 ($23 FROM O'REILLY)

pimacdaddy

Ok gotcha ! Awesome. I believe you helped me before with the infamous hot soak/hard start about some vsv bypass but can't seem to locate the thread ?

RAD4Runner

I still haven't nailed down cause and solution to that. It stil comes and goes on mine, altho it has not happened in over a year, since I replaced my fuel pump which turned out to be in really bad condition.

pimacdaddy

I see. I think I saw some pictures theses last few days of some of your csi temp switches and other sensor being cleaned to bare metal. Might give that a try when I have a second.

I wonder If it has to do with my evap canister hissing for a while

osv

that sounds similar to this 6204 LLU ntn bearing that i got years ago, it's also $6.30+shipping on amazon:

osv

hissing from vacuum or pressure? here is a test procedure for it: https://web.archive.org/web/20100326...76evaporat.pdf

pimacdaddy

Thanks for this and for the bearing tip, I was looking at getting the 6204 Nachi one should last a long while