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Ideas for crappy mpg

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Old 11-10-2008, 08:34 PM
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Ideas for crappy mpg

So since I had my headgasket, balljoints, pads and front wheels repacked my mpg just sucks. I did a quick look for loose connections, but tomorow I am going to do a thorough check on evrything I can think of...so far all I can think of is maybe some electrical connection is not plugged together properly, or some vacuum hose is not on, afm? I guess my o2 sensor might have went by coincidence...
Anyway I need some help here on things I should look for.
Old 11-10-2008, 08:51 PM
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When was the last time it had a tune up?
Old 11-10-2008, 09:12 PM
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I did half a tune up, changed plugs and wires like 7 or 8 months ago, coil and distributor ???
Oil and filters were done often.

I pretty much drove it home from the mechanic thinking it was using more gas.
Old 11-10-2008, 09:12 PM
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What kind of numbers are we looking at? Sub-15mpg?

I wouldn't be surprised if your brakes are dragging. Mine did after I installed new pads. Jack your front end up and try spinning the tires by hand. Do the same with the rear. If they don't turn freely, your calipers are sticking. Often happens when you install new pads.

Could be winter gas. I bet Kelowna has had the winter mix for a while now.
Old 11-11-2008, 08:56 AM
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Went from about 19 to 13 mpg ugh
When lifted both front tires turn with some resistance and stop almost instantly. The driver side seems like a little more force is needed to rotate the tire.
Old 11-11-2008, 09:04 AM
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calipers may be dragging on the sliders, but it sounds almost normal since the pads are in constant contact with the rotors.
too tight bearings maybe

but, how does the engine idle, etc.?
checked the timing and idle speed? (you probably have but it doesn't hurt to ask, right?
Old 11-11-2008, 10:44 AM
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The pads shouldn't drag much. Yes, they are in constant contact, but the wheel should still turn freely (ie: on my truck, the tire will continue to turn for about 1-2 revolution after spinning it by hand).

Technically, you should replace your calipers if the pads drag. Rust has built up behind the pistons (pots) in the caliper and aren't allow the pistons to fully retract. I had this happen, and I just worked the pistons back and forth in the cylinders about a dozen times, then bled the brakes a few times to get all the rust and crud out.
Old 11-11-2008, 11:01 AM
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Whats the tolerance for tight bearings? I did have some funky sounds coming from the front drivers wheel (same one thats a little harder to rotate) My mechanic assured me it was probably a rock or something stuck up in there, that sound stopped after about half an hour and hasn't happened since. But if it spins it seems like it should be OK no?

It does pull to the left as it did before the work, but I also need some more front end work done, tie rod ends, and pitmans. It is going in for the steering centre link recall at the end of the month as well.

The engine idles and runs great, maybe a little louder tick than before I had the work done, but the tick has also quieted down somewhat in the month since the work...guess the valves tightened them selves up a little.
Seems like I have a little more power going up hills.

As for timing, I dont have a light so IDK Idle speed is normal about 850ish.
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