cchant

Okay I have an '89 pickup with the 22r-e. I have recently been having some problems with no power, I could be flooring the gas and it would not go then suddenly it would fly forward, or when idling the truck would sound and idle fine then periodically would lose rpm's then come back to normal. It does this at random and seems to do it while driving as well. Another issue I was having related to the power problem, would be the truck would begin to buck and bounce randomly during driving. But the truck ran for the most part

Yesterday I decided I would open the hood and look for anything obvious like holes or cracks in tubing, loose ground wires, unplugged hoses etc. I took the air box, AFM, and the hoses running between the air box and the throttle body off and inspected them. They all looked fine. I inspected the AFM and made sure the flapper door could open and close easily. It did. I checked the butterfly plate in the throttle body and at resting it looks fully closed, but it's easily opened and the cable has a tiny bit of slack in it.

So everything looks fine as far as those hoses go. So I put everything back in and go to turn the truck on. It starts but instantly dies. Weird..? So I go back under the hood and check all the hoses again. No luck on the 2nd go.

I come here on yotatech and do some research and find that it could be idle screw problem. So I try to adjust the idle. I have now got the truck to where it will start for about 5 seconds then it will die. During the 5 seconds the idle, by ear, doesn't sound too high or low. It sounds about the same as before the problems. One thing I noticed is when it dies I can hear the flapper door in the AFM closing. It's not really loud but it's distinctive. Another thing is if I give it any throttle before it dies on it's own, it will kill it instantly.

So, any suggestions? let me know if you need more info

Marc

If it's like the 3VZE It's probably your AFM connection.

You may have damaged the connector when you disconnected it, or it's not connected.

The fuel pump runs when in the crank position but needs a signal from the AFM to continue running.

cchant

Interesting. The rubber boot that surrounds the connector on the AFM was a little worn so I wrapped it in electrical tape... any one have a picture of the inside of the AFM by the way?

Jay351

Dont take the inside apart FYI. Dont even think of removing where it has been sealed up with clear silicone. Use an ohm meter and test the AFM.

cchant

It looks like someone has already been there prior to me owning it...

corax

make sure the rubber tube from throttle body to VAF doesn't have any holes or tears in it. With the VAF flapper open a little bit and the connector on, check for continuity to ground from this connector (forget which side)

make sure you didn't leave anything disconnected or loose

cchant

Thanks guys, I am working on this right now. I did a diagnostic check while I was in there and got the following codes: 22, 24, 31, 41

and checked them against the chart here
http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/codes/index.html

headed back out now to double check hoses

cchant

I just got back and triple checked everything. Everything is tightly connected and I found no holes or tears any where. The truck still starts up for about 5 seconds and dies.

corax

from the codes you got it sounds like you forgot to bolt a ground wire back on or left a connector unplugged

Jay351

Seriously, pull the AFM and test it as per the FSM.

abecedarian

22- Open or short in coolant temp sensor circuit
24- Open or short in intake air temp sensor circuit
31- Open or short (exceeding .5 second duration) detected in air flow meter circuit with engine at idle
41- Open or short (exceeding .5 second duration) detected in throttle position sensor VTA circuit, OR IDL / E2 contact closed with VTA signal above 1.45v

None of those codes should keep the engine from starting. If the AFM is not securely plugged in it could cause the engine to die within a few seconds after starting. Check the plugs and make sure that none of the terminals pushed out of the plug, they are all clean and free of water/condensation.

cchant

I think I found it. After much frustration I found this. The right prong is broken off.

abecedarian

So, is it working now?

cchant

Uh no haha. The prong on the far right looks like it was supposed to make contact with the prong on the left, before it was broken. I have the broken piece but I don't know if it's possible to somehow put it back together by solder or some kind of epoxy. I tried searching around for that part in particular but no luck at the moment. It's the connector that goes into the AFM

If I am unable to fix it, I may have to go to a few junk yards and see if they have one I can snatch.

Kiroshu

Judging from the codes it read i think you got connectors crossed.... trace your connectors and make sure you don't have them flipflooped....i had the EXACT same issue on my 86 4runner i have now... and on day i was taking the coolant temp sensor out to clean it and the coolant temp sensor and cold start time switch or something is right next it with the exact same hook up and plug... well i crossed them both not thinking about it and for about a week i had the issue of it taking 20 trys to get the truck started and reflooped those wires and presto fired right up and check engine light that i had with it went off.... check connectors before you go buying stuff....

cchant

Here is another image of the piece that's broke. It's part of the connector that goes in to the side of the AFM.

That little piece on the bottom right of the picture should actually be attached to the last prong on the bottom.

Kiroshu

Get a new plug. go to junk yards and stuff to see if you can get that and see if it fixes it but i sounds like its more than just that....

cchant

Yeah I will be calling around a few yards soon, but I am on a 12 day work stretch so it might have to wait unless I can find one on ebay or something. But I will be checking other connections still but I outside of that plug I am still dumbfounded. All the hoses and connections are tight and in their right place.

Kiroshu

all of your codes you got pointed out some of the most important sensors for engine performance.... so its kinda odd.... make sure wires are correct and not broken.... take the plugs off and clean them if needed. have you tried reseting the computer? pull the EFI fuse out for 30 secs and go drive see what she does.

cchant

Thanks Kiro. I will probably check all plugs and their wires and connections etc tonight when I get off work, but the truck will definitely not run with that plug being broken as of now