How to break in a newly rebuilt 3vze
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: So Cal - 1993 4Runner V6 4X4 Automatic
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and change the oil AFTER ONLY 20 MILES... wow... will do that!!!
Last edited by cheappc; 05-13-2013 at 12:14 PM.
#5
These aren't flat tappet cams were talking about. They're essentially rollers cams. As in there's a "bearing" that "rolls" when the cam lobes come into contact with the tappets. That "bearing" being the clearance adjustment shim, which rotates as the tappet is pushed on by the cam lobe.
Bottom line: There's no break-in period for these cams. This isn't a 22R-E.
Bottom line: There's no break-in period for these cams. This isn't a 22R-E.
#6
I recently purchased a to be installed complete engine and was asked to follow this procedure by Denny's Auto Machine.
This engine has been tested for “Ring Seal” and prepped with Break in Oil. This oil MUST be removed at or before 300 miles.
Proper Break In Includes:
This jives with my limited prior understanding of engine break in. No constant speeds, a variety of speeds, Don't drop the hammer or lean on it to hard, a specific start up procedure, and special oil the first bit. Look good to you fellas?
This engine has been tested for “Ring Seal” and prepped with Break in Oil. This oil MUST be removed at or before 300 miles.
Proper Break In Includes:
- Quick Start Up. Avoid over fueling and improper timing.
- 10-15 minutes of fast idle at 1500 RPMs.
- Drive immediately, load engine at different speeds and RPMs not to exceed 3,000 RPMs or 50 MPH for 15-20 minutes.
- Normal driving for 300 miles. Avoid constant speeds (Interstate driving).
- Drain Break in oil, and replace with HD oil of your choice. No additives or semi or full synthetic oil until your engine has 10,000 miles on it.
This jives with my limited prior understanding of engine break in. No constant speeds, a variety of speeds, Don't drop the hammer or lean on it to hard, a specific start up procedure, and special oil the first bit. Look good to you fellas?
Last edited by WestSideVB; 05-13-2013 at 11:42 AM.
#7
Not too bad.
I like pretty much everything except the "No additives or semi or full synthetic oil until your engine has 10,000 miles on it." part. I don't see why not after the post-300 mile break-in oil drain. IT'S ≥99% BROKEN-IN AT THAT POINT!!! IF you did it right...
As far as, "don't drop the hammer or lean on it to hard", strike that. Reverse it. That's what is meant by "load engine at different speeds and RPMs not to exceed 3,000 RPMs or 50 MPH". Which is a rather vague way of putting it. What that all really means is lots of WOT(Wide Open Throttle) and NOT(Not Open Throttle) driving, at rpm up to atleast 3000 rpm(but not much more) and/or 50 mph(but not much more). For atleast 15-20 minutes(but not much more). Then normal drive atleast ~300 miles(but not much more) before break-in oil drain. See also the previously posted link.
That's what I recommend.
I like pretty much everything except the "No additives or semi or full synthetic oil until your engine has 10,000 miles on it." part. I don't see why not after the post-300 mile break-in oil drain. IT'S ≥99% BROKEN-IN AT THAT POINT!!! IF you did it right...
As far as, "don't drop the hammer or lean on it to hard", strike that. Reverse it. That's what is meant by "load engine at different speeds and RPMs not to exceed 3,000 RPMs or 50 MPH". Which is a rather vague way of putting it. What that all really means is lots of WOT(Wide Open Throttle) and NOT(Not Open Throttle) driving, at rpm up to atleast 3000 rpm(but not much more) and/or 50 mph(but not much more). For atleast 15-20 minutes(but not much more). Then normal drive atleast ~300 miles(but not much more) before break-in oil drain. See also the previously posted link.
That's what I recommend.
Last edited by MudHippy; 05-14-2013 at 07:17 AM.
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