ee-pitboss

Went for an inspection today. Since I bought the truck I've known that the clutch was a little weak. Well, turns out it's weak enough to not run enough on the dyno. I watched the guy try like hell to get it to speed up enough and nothing. So, here I am, about 90bucks lighter and 1 clutch kit in hand (a "perfect" clutch with a Ltd lifetime warr), wondering if this is a job I should tackle myself, or shell out the 70 bucks an hour to have someone do for me. I have a moderate expirience level with mechanics, as in I can change anything on an old air cooled VW...like that's difficult, and I've replaced a motor in a camaro, installed lift kits, and done a rear end swap. Never did a clutch and acc. on a yota 4x4 though.
Shes an 86 4runner, 22re 5spd(obviously). Just wondering what you all think.

Kinked

i just changed the clutch on my S-10... it was a pain in the ass, but with enough help it could have been done in a weekend. i cant imagine that the yota would be much diffrent. if you do it, get the transmission jack... good luck

22mr2

if its a salt belt truck, the crossmember will be the hardest thing to take down, besides that, wrestling the transmission in to line up the imput shaft in the truck. M ight want to consider a new rear main seal while u have the trans out and maybe a new input and output seal for the trans while ur at it

89silverpu

Its easy, but a pain in the ass lol There are two bolts on top of the tranny that you need at least three feet of extension to get to with a universal on the end. I had trouble getting the tranny to come off the input shaft because the threads were kinda binding because I was pulling it off at an angle. Make sure you have a clutch alignment tool (the kit should come with one) and get your fly wheel resurfaced and replace all the bearings (once again should come with the kit). You should have no problem doing this. Don't spend the money. It will probably take you around 2hrs if you don't lolly gag or have any problems getting the tranny off. Having an extra person helps alot as well.

89silverpu

x2...if your truck is leaking oil from somewhere, a worn out rear main seal is most likely the culprit.

just a 22re

i just did mine by my self in my cold garage and with a trany jack its super easy!!

heres what you do

17mm bolts hold the trans cross member on theres 4 of them spray with pb
10-12mm hold the clutch slave on undo and put to the side
17mm hold the trany to the motor 4of them
14mm hol dthe trans to the motor 4 of them to (drivers side from motor to trany behind exhast)
remove rear drive shaft 8 14mm bolts mark it before you remove it so its not out of sink
center consle... theres 4 pilips head screws remove it.... 6 screws hold the rubber heat/sound panel on....4 10-12 mm bolts hold the shifter on leave it in nutral or 1st!!!.... then the hard part theres a set clip holdin gthe trasfer case shifter on you must use a retaining clip ring remover harber freight has them 6 bucks

stater must come off 2 12-14mm bolts hold it in in clip the starter lead and unbolt the power lead 10mm bolt

once you have everythig noff unbolted and moved out of the way carfully an di mean careifully pry the bell housing and trany away from the motor with it on the trany jack slide back lower jack and roll it out of the way now!!

theres 6 12 sided 10-12mm bolts holding the pressure plate on take them off its easy if you use a pry bar on the teeth trying very hard not to brake one and the exhast or frame to get them loose take off

same thing one more time 17mm 6-12 sided bolts holing the flywheel on mark it so it goes back on the same exact way it came off take it in to a shop get it surfaced about 50 bucks and its brand new looking and working easy way to get the bolts lose is to use a pry bar on the frame and two(2) of the pins for the preesure plate and crank careful its heavy about 40-50 pounds

now if your doin gthe bearing in the crank get a 1/4 inch socket that fits into the whole there hate a plastic pen cao put it in the 1/4in hole (where the wrench goes) and fill it up with grese or lube hit with hammer softly keep fillin gthe hole and go untill it pops out spray with brake clean clean it out nice and using a 14mm 1/4 socket pound it back in carefuily and then ...

use locktight on the bolts for the flywheel and the pressure plate put them on to spec!!!

and then put the rest back together!!! hope you have fun i got mine done in about 2 days well i would have had it done in 4 hours but i had to tak my flywheel in an dthat took the most time!

hop eit helps you out if you get stuck come back on here and ask youll get help


and i see your 1st gen is clean so i dont think you live near me or i would help you out no problem and i have all the tools in my garage to do it lol but were all here for ya



GET ER DONE!!

zlathim

You can handle it Eddie. You have done enough stuff to convince me that you are competent. Do yourself a favor and rent a good tranny jack, it makes it fairly easy. If you don't want to shell out for a jack rental, some guys have used a strap hanging from the grab handles in the cab through the shifter hole to lift the tranny with good results. Search DirtToyBoy, he has some good pics of the process.

ee-pitboss

Thanks alot folks, I'm gonna try on her tommorow am...we're gonna get 40degree weather for the 1st time in 2 months. I have my sis and her boyfriend helping(both are easy to yell at, so i think I'll be fine. I'll let you know how it's going if it's not done by tommorow afternoon night. I think I'm gonna force myself to get the trans jack, it might actually help out pulling the aircooled vw's motor too...
And Allan, thank you for the heads up and the step by step, I feel like it'll help out alot.

bigt

YOU NEED TO BUY OR RENT A TRANNY JACK
it will make your life so much easyier i got mine from princess auto like h.f for like 50 bucks.. it goes on the floor jack..
also make sure you kit came with a clutch alignment tool mine didnt ahve finding a universel for such a small pilot bearing was impossible!

Jay351

Yeah, get a tranny jack adapter. Its a pain in the arse to balance the tranny and t-case on a floor jack.

but its a straightforward job, have fun

ee-pitboss

Lookin at maybe just buying one for tomorrow, like I said, should help with the bugs and buses too. Kit has an alignment tool in it, although, going back to the beetle... it looks oddly similiar to the 200mm clutch alignment tool I used on the 71 dub long ago. Not that I'm saying I wanna try it just to see...but I will.

86Toyrunna

x2 on the tranny jack.. the first time i did a clutch on my 85 it was a pita.. ended up running the boom of a cherry picker through the cab and strapping the tranny to that and using it to lower it onto a creeper and then sliding it out.... ya if u can replace a engine u can do this no problem.. every one has mentioned the things to do and look out for... just make sure u disconect the batt.. i totaly spaced it the first time and arced the wrench lol that will wake u up fast (it was about 11pm and roughly 25 degrees in my polebar) the last time i did a clutch it took me just over 2 hours start to finish.. but that was having every thing ready to go and taking shortcuts, just dropping the driveline off the tcase, not removing the line from the slave cyl, just droping the starter and not removing the cables and wires, and having a resurfaced flywheel ready to go.. not to mention about 3 cans of monster engergy drink lol oh ya my pilot bearing was a PITA to get out the first time.. had to run a rent a puller from shucks.. second time i had a pair of needle nose pliers i grouved the back side of that would grab the bearing and allow me to just slide it out.

ee-pitboss

Well. got about half done in 3 and a half hours, just have those top 17mm bolts to take care of, came back up to checklist and make sure everythings done...no tranny jack though, apparently in RI it's illegal to rent one cuz of the liability of some yahoo dropping motor or trans on his head, so its ratchet straps away. I'll check back in later tonight.

91Toyota

Tranny jacks suck! Good if all you need to do is hold a tranny up. But, I had a hard time getting my tranny + t-case out from UNDERNEATH the truck. And its lifted with 33" tires. I had the rear end on a jack as high as it would go and still couldn't get it out. I had to knock the tranny off the jack and slid it out.

Anyway, good luck!

ee-pitboss

Holy Hell...trans is down... heavy mother, well atleast heavier and bigger than she looked like shed be. Now doing the small bearing, fun. Looks like I'll be finishing her up tommorow, as far as slapping her all back together. Know what the PITA is? The clutch I pulled out was almost new, the last monkey just didnt put the clips on the TOB the right way and one slipped off and the other was about too...also I think he reused the pressure plate cuz she seemed real soft and was rusted alot more than even the worst part of the frame was....just figured that last part out as I was typing it...dang.

ee-pitboss

Trans is up...actually turned out to be easier to get in then out. Just benched it up there with a buddy of mine, lying on our backs underneath it. Now I need to bleed the clutch and make my adjustments as shes not fully disengageing unless the pedals to the floor. I guess what I mean is, when the pedal is all the way to the floor its still kinda hard to shift and then once I let it up just a bit(maybe half an inch) she starts to pull away (the truck I mean). Ah well, quick stuff for tommorow, spent the whole day outside in 18degrees...bout ready to relax and crack one open.

ee-pitboss

Figured this might gather some interest too. Under the center console/shifter surround is a metal plate that holds down the rubber boots for the shifters. I liked the look of the bare metal after removing the surround so I dolled it up a bit today when I was becoming frustrated with the task of the trans.

just a 22re

for the clutch beein gon the flloor like that just read my message i sent you theres a 10-12 mm bolt and adjust the point io still have to do that to mine cause its just like yours way on the floor and about a 1.2 inch form the floor it rools lol makes shifting fast hard to do lol

ee-pitboss

Yea, just got that message. From the Jeeps I've owned I had always been told to adjust it a little at a time as it can actually cause wear on the new clutch plate if its out of spec to much, and in the first 500m the clutch wears the fastest as it breaks in. Thats what we went with at the dealers.

ee-pitboss

Also folks. Figured I'd ask this one, all I have left to do to have her fully functional is the window regulators (front) and window motor (rear) and change out the blower fan resistor. I've been looking into about a 3 inch suspension lift and a 2 in body lift, but that comes after I buy a set of 33's. A set of tube bumpers and transferring some spotlights and fogs on her. I customized out the center plate of the shifters. Looking for other little tricks and such to do, without making it look like a ghetto mobile. Any examples to get my mind running?