Stock91

Called the shop, guy said with 200, 000 miles on a 22 re, should look at a new engine. NOT WHAT I WANT TO HEAR!
There are some ridges on the cylinders, but the head is not warped and everything was fine before, until the timing chain cover got grinded up.
So, the shop cleaned up the head a bit, no adjustments, I was thinkin, just leave everything the way it is , right? I mean those ridges seal the piston rings??
Thus so far, the head is off and clean, so is the timing chain (needs replacement), and the oil pan. There were nice circles on the head where the cylinders came up and "sealed"? Head is also not warped and looks good to go.
I was thinking I might ream the thing and hone it and at this point I dont want to listen to the shop, lol. What are your guys' thoughts?

abecedarian

get a micrometer reading of the cylinder bores and go from there.

olharleyman

x2
check it for out of round top to bottom and see if it's worth saving first

Cyberman

When you say "shop", is this a machine shop? If so, they should be able to tell if the cylinders can be bored and honed for oversized.

corax

you can leave it as is and shouldn't have any problems (after checking for out of round, taper, etc).

If you want to go the route of hone and ridge ream, that needs to be done with the pistons out of the engine to get the entire length of the cylinder . . . probably just leave it as is if it hasn't been giving you any problems.

Stock91

Stock 22re, never been machined. Never had any problems. Altenator went out at 190,000 or so, frickin original.
The "shop" is an auto repair shop that does machining. Word is they are pretty good.
Only thing I did to it was overheat it this spring and it stalled. Head is fine so I assume block is not warped.
Thanks again for the insight..

abecedarian

hmmm... overheated to the point it stalled... gouges in the cylinders....
sounds like an overbore will be needed, can't say for sure though since we don't know the depth of the 'ridges' in the cylinders.
likely new pistons, rings, etc.... to go along with the overbore.

so the more we learn, it sounds like a new engine is a viable option.

Stock91

THe ridges I see are only at the top where the piston stops, like a ring. It seems more like deposits from running all this time. They do not extend down the cylinder.
How the heck do I get my camera to go to 48 kb or whatever the site needs to post em?

Stock91

lol, it did start back up to move it

abecedarian

okay, so we would need to know the depth of the ridge before we could say the block needs replaced.

as for pictures, you can use a free program like paint.net to resample them down to an allowable file size, or sign up for an account on photobucket so you can upload the pics there, then link to them from here.

Stock91

here are some pics, I hope

Stock91

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1/HPIM2905.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1/HPIM2907.jpg
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1/HPIM2901.jpg

Hope these are better!

corax

sounds like it's just a ridge at the top of the cylinder, not a gouge or scored cylinder wall. There are tools designed to take that ridge off called a, well, ridge reamer. The rings don't swipe past this area so a ridge forms.


Ridge caused by cylinder wear


Removing the ridge with ridge reamer


another reamer

abecedarian

try this:
try the following around the links to your pics.
and it ends up like the next post I make.

abecedarian

abecedarian

can you get a close up on #3 cylinder, and another on #4?

Stock91

#4
<a href="http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e253/stock91/?action=view&current=HPIM2911.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e253/stock91/HPIM2911.jpg" border="0" alt="#4"></a>
#3, I hope
<a href="http://s41.photobucket.com/albums/e253/stock91/?action=view&current=HPIM2910.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e253/stock91/HPIM2910.jpg" border="0" alt="#3"></a>

or #4
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1/HPIM2911.jpg

#3
http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...1/HPIM2910.jpg

InternetRoadkill

First, 200k doesn't matter on the block. It's a well seasoned block so it's going to be stable.

Second, are you sure that you really have a ridge and not just a bunch of carbon at the top?

Third, if you're going to rebuild the engine, go ahead and punch it out to the next oversize and plane the top of block to insure it's flat and square. Have the block boiled while you're at it as well.

Stock91

It feels more like carbon. I can dig at it w/ a fingernail. My instincts are telling me to leave everything alone and do the timing chain cover//chain and head gasket . This is my first time this deep into the motor, so my hands are full, lol.
Im not a bad home mechanic, just want to ask questions before shooting

GDR

I agree,just bolt the head back on and go.

I'm gone thru a few high mileage vehicles and its just not worth it to do everything by the book. 200k is really nothing. If you plan on keeping the truck for awhile then start looking for another motor to build on the side.I'm sure you'll have a long time to go before you have to worry.

You only have to remove the top ridge if you remove the pistons otherwise leave it alone.