91_TOYOTA_4x4

ok here is the low down. buddys 4runner 3.crap. it has coffee oil under the oil cap but the rad fluid is clear? runs fine and has same power as always. it gets hot when going very slow or idleing for long periods of time in traffic, once it gets moving again it cools back down to normal. engine has 350k km's and had head gasket done 30k ago by PO. problem is he needs to have his runner to get to school and he is afraid it wont make it.

here is what we know is wrong with it - intake tube has a rip and PO duct taped it as a temp fix, thing eats rad fluid and has a leak somewhere. our thoughts were HG right? but wouldnt there be oil in rad too? anyways we need advice fast.

option 1. find a 3.4 and everything we will need and swap it during christmas break. we have the know how to do this swap as we have both been reading and reading of 3.4 swaps for months. problem is all the 3.4's around here are auto's we need 5spd! not so much worried about it being a auto because we would just need a 5spd ecu and wiring harness but we would rather a 5spd motor with harness and computer. basically if you guys could tell us everything we will need down to everything to get it up and running.

option 2. take heads off get them planed if worped, new HG's, new oil, fix intake tube, new rad, and check water pump. this is the easy way out but we were already planning for a 3.4 and dont want to put money into an engine that will come back out in 6 months haha.

like i said the engine runs fine rightnow and has not lost any power since we found this tasty coffee oil.

if you know of a cheap 3.4, 5spd ecu/ wiring harness, and can ship to us please give us a shout even if you know or have a cheap 3.4 just let us know what you want for it.

any input would be greatly appreciated! only thing dont tell us this will be hard and try and talk us out of it because we are fixing this thing balls to the wall lol. YT rocks and you guys are our only hope!!

stormin94

If it's just leaking coolant, fix the leak, and save yourselves a few thousand on a swap.

Mine gets hot at low speeds, like traffic, or wheeling. But if I let it idle, it cools back down slowly. And, when I speed up, it cools down quickly. I've narrowed it down to either the radiator having a clog in it, or the waterpump.

If you haven't checked already, your thermostat may not be opening all the way. That could be your problem.

91_TOYOTA_4x4

ok thanks. problem is we cant find the coolant leak and it pretty much stops after driving it but he keeps having to put more coolant in? under oil cab its coffee looking so its mixing in the oil?. in traffic the needle jumps up to almost the red part so he ether tuns it off or revs it up to 1300 and it cool down? so we think there is a bigger problem then the thermostat. but do you think that would help and fix this?

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

pull the plugs and take a look at them. Pay close attention to the driverside cyl 4 and 6 as those are the commom spots the headgasket fails. Replace the radiator! even if you go the route of the 3.4 you still reuse the 3.0 radiator might as well have a good one ready and waiting! replace the fan clutch! It can also be used for the the 3.4 swap. Might as well have a good fan clutch as well.

Team420

Air bound? Mine did that when there was air trapped in the system... I thought I was leaking coolant, but it was just burping the air to the top....

xfactor203

You're in BC right? Coffee under the oil cap could be condensation if your buddy is doing a lot of short trips, not letting the engine heat up enough to boil off ambient moisture. If you are finding moisture on the dipstick too this doesn't apply. Doesn't explain where the coolant is going though. . .

mt_goat

To me that points to poor air flow through the radiator, usually from a bad fan clutch.

Not always.

91_TOYOTA_4x4

ok so he should replace the rad, replace the thermostat, and intake. check number 4 and 6 cylinders and see if that helps? the weird part is that it has not lost any power or anything, it still runs the same but he just looked under the oil cap and there is was.

stormin94

If he has to rev it up to 1300, it could also be the water pump.

Team420

Yep...I'd say t-stat, water pump, or air in the system.... low coolant levels also cause this.

A little "milk" on the cap isnt a big deal...especially in climates that fluctuate from real cold to warm in a day.... milk on the dipstick, or when oil is drained would concern me tho...

yoterr

if you wanna check water flow through the rad to see if theres a clog drive it around till normal temp shut it off and feel on the rad, should all be pretty hot but if there's a cold spot you have some clogged vains.. can either flush or replace rad

91_TOYOTA_4x4

ok so it could be the water pump then. going to try and check it this weekend. the rad is always hot and never seems to have cold spot but im going to check to make sure. also going to try and get a intake tube too. i hope this fixes it lol. thanks guys appreciate it.

91_TOYOTA_4x4

alright well my buddy orderd a water pump for 95 bucks and a intake tube so might be changing em this weekend we will take pics too and let you know how it goes!

91_TOYOTA_4x4

Hey sorry for being so late on the reply lol. he didnt end up getting the water pump and whatnot. He stopped driving it a while back so he wouldnt destroy it and he just lost interest in the thing. so.... im buying it from him, should be at my shop tomorrow and im going to start to figure this thing out my first plan is to flush the coolant and replace with toyota red coolant. then water pump to be safe, and im going to get a new intake tube from a wrecker. maybe a new thermostat too.

1st. So because im a bit of a noob lol whats the best way to drain the coolant and get some clogging out if any?

2nd. how can i tell if the water pump is bad without pulling it? i want to change it but is there any obvious way to tell?

3rd. How would you recommend burping the air out of the coolant? all i know is to put the truck on an incline and squeeze the top coolant hose? am i in the ball park or completely across town?

Know my plans are still the same as when i started this thread. im still going to do a 3.4 but i want to make the 3vze last me a month atleast, so i can sell my truck and get my 3.4 swap parts together.

anyways bump bump! im so pumped to get this thing running decent and drivable