j2the-e

I would suggest finding your problem before you tear it apart. Where is the distributor hold down bolt? Center of the slot? If your tps is acting up and you set the timing to 10 it will have no power at all.

machineslave

well... sigh... the ebike kit i was looking at
http://www.leafbike.com/products/diy...wheel-913.html

is sold from a company in....china
can't say i really trust my credit card info going over there. but the thing that stopped me was the $250 SHIPPING COST!!!

i can spare 700 right now, but not a G

i don't know that my TPS is acting up. i tested it with feeler guages and a meter, and everything checked out good. i had just read that if it was acting up, you could unplug it and see if any symptoms disappeared. and then i stupidly left it unplugged when i first tried timing it. it's at 15 right now, i'll put it back to 10 or 12

i think it runs a little better when it's cold, the few times i just got in it and drove without letting it warm up. i was reading something about a cold start injector. is this separate from the normal injectors? could this possible imply that my injectors are somewhat clogged? i've used seafoam twice but i've read it's no match for other cleaning methods like
and
and witch hunter of course

so i think i'll go get some valve cover gaskets and a plenum gasket and some injector O rings and at least look around in there. i've tried cleaning down in those crevices the best i could but there's still a lot of crap that i can't get out without having the plenum off. i pulled so much insulation (from the hood), straw, weird nut shells from some tree, and gobs of grime from in there. it makes me wonder what all needs replacing under there. the condition of those spark plugs makes me think this runner just needs tlc.


about 40 bucks for the gaskets and o-rings + time and elbow grease. i can figure out a way to work if i dont get everything put back together and working by sunday night.

maachine

nut shells, insulation, and straw? you think there might be a nest in there? has it been sitting for a while? if yes......start chasing wires. something may have chewed some stuff up. more common than you think

machineslave

ok i rolled my plenum out of the way, keeping the vacuum lines connected. i removed my fuel rail, replaced the O rings and rubbers for the injectors, cleaned all of that insulation out, removed the valve covers, cleaned the mating surfaces, used ultra gray in the corners of the new blue gaskets, replaced the pcv valve and gromet, and then reassembled. i got everything back together and running at 1am sunday night. i was tired as hell monday and tuesday at work but i feel a lot better about my engine.

no more oil leak, no more debree and super thick sludge. still a little sludge under the plenum but nothing like what it was. ill be able to clean the rest whenever i'm able to do a full rebuild.

it rides a little better, no more burnt rubber smell when i get out, oil pressure is a little higher. im at about 2000 miles since my last oil change and im not sure how much i was losing through the valve cover leak, so i'm guna do an oil change soon to make sure i have the proper amount in there. sometimes i can't really get a good read on my dipstick.

i took pictures of almost every step so i'm guna upload the pics in a new thread, and explain the things i didn't expect, and didn't learn elsewhere. it's about 100 pictures. they're uploading to imageshack right now. is there a limit to how many pictures i can post?

i still feel like there should be more power though. i understand the fuel system better now so i think i should be able to test the fuel pressure even without the banjo everyone talks about. and i still have to do that compression test just so i know where i sit there, and to know how far away from a full rebuild i am. im just guna start with a pressure test coming straight off the top of the fuel tank.

not sure how a pen stem got in there

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yep thats officially a "rats nest" and not the electrical kind, might be another one under the lower intake. I assume you saw the last thread on that but maybe not, it was a knock sensor thread.

Your photos are excessively large you can scale those down by atleast 2/3rds(somewhere closer to 1080 or 1260 x whatever, instead of 4k). Also the file size is HUGE rescalling should help alot of that but you'll still maybe want to put a dialup warning on the thread title with 100 pics.

machineslave

ok i got a 41 piece fuel injection pressure test kit from harbor freight for $89. it came with an adapter that worked perfectly. i just put some electrical tape around the hex head so i didn't mar it up (they have a 90 day return policy with receipt)

jumped FP and B+ like scope said and the pressure was above 40 psi. like 42 i think. from what i've read so far, that's normal.

i think i'll order a TPS from rock auto just to be sure that's not it, and i'm going to check out my vafm with the service manual as scope and co 94 said.

when i get the new TPS, will i be able to just slap it in there? or do i need to take the intake off to adjust it. i think i read someone saying the best place to adjust your tps is your kitchen table. the TPS checked out correctly with the feeler gauges and multimeter, but i read someone else having it check out fine but still be the problem. the part is only $50-60 so a new one won't kill me.

if it's not the tps or vafm, then i'm stumped. i'm guna buy the compression test kit for $15 from harbor freight when i take this fuel test back. but i don't see how compression would cause my hesitation.

maachine

remember that having the pressure doesnt necessarily mean that you have flow. have you change the fuel filter lately? sorry if you posted you have, i'm drunk and am lazy. your problem sounds either fuel related or vacuum (leak) related to me.

machineslave

yeah i was thinking about that afterwards. i think i'll try actually running the engine with the fuel test hooked up. i think the banjo adapter should allow that.

i keep reusing the same copper washers for the banjo and its starting to get stuck on the threads a little which is making it hard to remove. i'd get a new set of washers but it looks like the inside diameter is as important as the outside diameter, because it fits into a recessed hole to sit flush.

i did replace the fuel filter a little over a month ago. if my pressure drops while running then ill try blowing out the lines with compressed air.

i replaced as many vacuum lines as i could. i guess i should get a vacuum tester and see if the system holds pressure. if not then the first thing ill probably do is put a straight hose from my vafm to my intake to see if that helps, and if it does then i'll try fixing whatever might be wrong with all those silly boxes. i know that some of the mounts broke on them from some sort of front end collision the PO had, but i've never checked if there was some small hole under it. it just looks like the plastic bracket broke off with the screws still attached. i just figured they'd wiggle a little but if the hose clamps are tight, who cares.

ghostgxz

Hey did you ever figure out the problem? My dads 4runner is having the same problem

ghostgxz

Hey see my latest post

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post52103138

ghostgxz

Hey look again it turned out to be the fuel pressure damper

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...13/index2.html

machineslave

sorry i didn't respond. i had a screw fall out of my fuel pressure damper and start leaking fuel in my engine compartment, i got a few from the junkyard and put the nicest looking one in. before the screw fell out, i believe it was working. im actually suspecting my fuel pressure regulator to be one of the many problems i have.

i finally did a compression check with the tester i bought from harbor freight and all my cylinders came up around 105 to 110 psi. so i decided to rip everything apart and do a valve adjustment with the spare shims i got at the junk yard. man those camshaft sprocket bolts were tough. i put everything back together and got it running but the timing was way off, pretty sure the distributor turned when i put it in the first time. now its not 30 degrees off anymore but it practically wants to stall out at 10 degrees advanced, 15 is where i've been running it this week. i feel like the runner has more low end now than before i tore the engine apart but it has less high end and there's a whole bunch more lifter noise.

i believe the gap on 3 of the valve shims was .005 and from what i was reading on these forums, having the valves that tight can burn them. it's looking like i need a full rebuild. my oil gauge has worried me the entire time i've owned this runner, having a new oil pump would be peace of mind. a new one comes with many of the master rebuild kits you can buy online. and i found a machine shop near by "To Hot Tank The Block Is $ 60.00 To Bore & Hone is $ 18.00 a hole"

most of the rebuild kits are about $300 so i'm thinking about $500 to rebuild.

hmmm. i just remembered that i broke my thermal vacuum valve deal behind my intake manifold, again. but this time i may not have fixed it as well as the first time. i wonder if that would cause the slight engine bog i now have after releasing the throttle.