92budgetrunner

OK so I picked my 92 4 runner up with head gaskets recently done but the guy was outta money and needed to sell so "lucky" me picked it up for 800 bucks, he said.it was an igniter that it would idle fine and.you can.move it.around.but when you go a certain.speed.it shuts.off.... it was flashing an igniter code so I fixed it, took it out for a test drive and all was well but I be live once it.got.up to normal running temps I tried going up a decent.size hell and it shut off so I put it.in N and restarted it, it started no problem but not as well and had some smoke so I tried to replicate the issue since no CEL so went to go up a bigger hill and BAM dies again so I put it in N and started it put it in drive and it died still on the hill after an exactly repeat and being stuck on the hill started it again and rolled back down the hill and at least 5 times total I would start it and it would die when put into gear so I put it in N and restarted it the very very slowly started to move the shifter to drive and before the shifter went to drive basically between N and D it died not even engaging the trans into D, restarted tried again but as.it was dying I put it back into N and it idled back up and in this whole explanation.of it dying it when it died by moving the shifter it was basically 100% instant when.it died when it died trying to pull the hill it would be going the cut out completely then sputter for literally a sec or 2 then die like I turned the switch off and in the matter of all this the CEL never came on, after not making it up any hills Iimped it down to the flat roads near my house and pulled it into my garage without it dying, I unhooked the battery to check things hooked it back up to test the CEL and its blinked indicating normal o I know it illuminates, any ideas guys?????

TOYROX

Have you checked base timing? All vacuum lines connected? 02 sensor plugged in?

92budgetrunner

I have checked vacuum lines, not timing and 02s are plugged in, I figured it maybe more electrical since it idles 100% perfect and when it sensed it going into gear ( not actually in gear ) and it killed it

Gevo

when you get a light, all is dandy and you know where to look. When you don't get a light.. life is hell and you have a lot of troubleshooting to do.

Which engine? I don't see the truck into other than the year...?

Also, when idling in park or neutral, does the throttle pick up normal?

92budgetrunner

Oh yea I understand it definately, it is hell!
It is a 3VZ-E and besides the pedal feeling unusually stiff ( never had this truck before so nothing to compare besides and IS300) and throttle seems to be OK, revs nices and idles smooth as can be, I did find a bad cold start injector switch mind you it came this way I'm all about fix it right fix it once and find the problem.and.don't throw parts at it but the cold start injector time switch has no continuity through it and has red RTV over it from where it loos like the plug part came loose from the brass part it moves seperately, but I don't knowif that would do it, but I see why they jimmy rigged it, the part store said its a dealer only part so they jacked it all up, I gotta make a trip to Toyota tomorrow or friday

92budgetrunner

So I got the timing cover off, set the crank pulley at zero, looks like the timing marks on the passenger side cam line up but looks like the driver side cam gear is off a tooth or two
( the camgear mark to to the right of the mark above the cam gear) but would it be enough to make it die when warm under load?

92budgetrunner

Well after really looking into the timing should be fine so I started checking other things, its gonna take a bit to try it but was going off the FSM and checked the resistance of the coil pack on the driver fender under the hood, for the primary coil it should be 0.36-0.55 and mine read 0.00 on the primary and on the secondary its read 12.10 which is with in spec ( primary coil is unplugging the small 2 wire pigtail on the coil and putting an ohmmeter on the 2 prongs where the small 2 wire pigtail connect to, and secondary is measuring from the inside of where the coil wire goes that connects to the distributor to the inside prong of where the 2 wire pigtail connects to)

RJR

Depending on your voltmeter and your metrology skills, that 0.00 ohm reading may or may not indicate a problem. Resistances below 1 ohm are tough to measure accurately without a 4-wire ohm meter and some experience. Lead resistance and stray offset voltages can easily give you erroneous results. If the reading is accurate, it would indicate a shorted primary in the coil, which would in turn likely take out either the ignitor or the ignition fuse fairly quickly. My guess is that's not the problem. I would be looking for an intermittent connection in the ignition wiring harness.

Gevo

I had been using an older small not very expensive digital multimeter and my readings were within spec, below 1 ohm. 0.00 ohms is actually difficult to come by even when touching the tips of the multimeter leads. Usually there will be around .2 ohms of resistance in it's own system. The other possibility can be that the coil does not have any continuity, at .7 ohms a low voltage continuity test should show electricity flow. Test the continuity of the leads as a second measure of the coil. I'm not 100% sure, but I believe it should have continuity if in good condition. I'll check mine tomorrow and confirm.

Test your E2 and other signal wires multiple times. My problem was a short between the E2 and VC wires going between the computer, VAFM and TPS.

92budgetrunner

When I touch the leads of my meter together they drop to 0.00 I'm gonna borrow a fluke multi meter and check it again, when I bought it it has a CEL for the ignitor, changed it and still dies when under load and thus far all of.the.sensors and components I have checked thus far have been within spec this being the first I component that measured out of.spec and I just checked my meter by measuring resistance on a 10k ohm 2% 1 watt resistor and got 10.1 and I just check continuity on the primary coil and it drops to 001 then holds there for a second then goes to 000 and I'll test the TPS leads and the VMAF leads when I get more time

92budgetrunner

[QUOTE=RJR;52154948]Depending on your voltmeter and your metrology skills, that 0.00 ohm reading may or may not indicate a problem. Resistances below 1 ohm are tough to measure accurately without a 4-wire ohm meter and some experience. Lead resistance and stray offset voltages can easily give you erroneous results. If the reading is accurate, it would indicate a shorted primary in the coil, which would in turn likely take out either the ignitor or the ignition fuse fairly quickly. My guess is that's not the problem. I would be looking for an intermittent connection in the ignition wiring harness.[/QUOTE

I rechecked and had forgot to change my ohm setting and they coil is good

92budgetrunner

Thanks a lot for metioningbwhdre your short was at I checked the VAFM and E2 and VC checked out good but when I checked the TPS I did find and issue with E2 and IDL THE PINS ARE BROKE!!!! E2 and IDL came right out of the TPS plug and I noticed they are broke and won't clip in but do you think a loose connection there in either of the 2 would cause my issue? I'm about positive that they weren't shorting but possible just not a good connection with the TPS its self, what other vehicles share the same plug so I could go to a junk yard and just cut the whole tps plug off and soldier my tps wires to it since the pins are broke that clip the wire into plug

Gevo

Well... a bad connector was causing my no spark condition. So lose connections may cause the tps signal to the ecu be intermittent or bad. I imagine such a situation causing your symptoms. I baught a used tps connector from ebay $15. New ones are around $60. Used ones wont have nice soft wires though. Regardless it may be something u need to fix anyway.

92budgetrunner

Sorry my bad bud I just edited my last post it was E2 and IDL pins that came out

92budgetrunner

Just picked up a new TPS wire harness connector from Pull a Part off a Camry, plugged in fine on my TB same plug just yellow on the inside around the pins and yup only paid 1.75 for it and it looks new

Gevo

I'm assuming this did not solve any problems?

92budgetrunner

I haven't tried anything since I put the new tps plug on last night, its not my daily driver as of now and I still have the radiator, fan, and accessories belts off I'm gonna be doing a timing belt and waterpump in the next week or 2 since the idiot that I bought it from that did the head gaskets didn't just change em while he was in there but I may throw it all back together since I'm not gonna take the timing belt off til I get the new one and pump in and my new cold start injector time switch

Bills86e

If he is labeled an Idiot,he new nothing about emissions,
and probly mis routed the center under plenom passenger side vsv hoses that connect to the three tubes. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l#post51141054

92budgetrunner

Going off the diagram it looks like they are all hooked up right and goin off the FSM, I did the EGR delete, so I have the tubes capped off at the front of the manifold and TB still have the FPR lines all hooked up and at the right place, I haven't put a 10k ohm resistor in the green vsv connector, do I need to? But i do have a 10k ohm resistor in the EGR temp sensor I'm about to delete the PAIR valve as well and cap those vaccum tubes as well

92budgetrunner

Don't know if this will solve the issue maybe someone can clarify it for me but on the throttle body you have 3 vaccum ports closest to the opening, R-E-P, R and E go over to the egr modulator or what ever its called and P goes to the rear of the engine to the TVV then out of it to the charcoal canister right???

On mine the guy had P capped off and the line from the TVV going to the vacuum port coming out of the top of the throttle body facing the firewall that is next to the mounting point of the TB, After finding another diagram from this link
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=230638
I got to looking at the TB and how the vacuum lines were hooked up, and going off the new diagram, the line coming from the TVV to the TB wasn't on P, and was in fact in the wrong location. Maybe if someone could look at their good running V6 4 runner and verify this it would be greatly appreciated!!