noble

Vehicle:
1995 Toyota 4runner
3.slow V6
5spd manual
4x4
IFS, manual (Warn) hub swap for ADD

Alright yotatech, here's the issue. I installed a BJ Spacer/OME Coil and 4point OME Shock lift about a year ago, and switched to 33x12.5 tires (KM2, but it's not the tires). Ever since then, when I am driving in 4x4 (road conditions are irrelevant, I made sure it was something on-board and not environmental) when accelerating in 4WD the drivers side wheel/tire is pulling severely inboard (visible to myself in the cab when watching, and to an observer 100m in front of the truck) to the point where it yanks the entire front end of the truck off line, and upon release of pedal and engine power, the tire immediately straightens out and jerks the truck back on track... Which is obviously extremely hazardous when road conditions start to worsen. This started after the lift, anybody have an suggestions to what it might be? The truck has been aligned multiple times and hasen't helped with the pulling.

As a side note, MOOG tie-rods, and OME steering stabilizer and an idler arm brace were installed before the lift truck was aligned, and I didn't notice any adverse effects to handling.

Was advised by local 4x4 shop that a diff drop kit may need to be installed, or differential has problems... But have never heard of either of these things being an issue with a BJ spacer lift.



HELP,
Noble

noble

So far suggestions have been... Something wrong with the differential (which I am suspect of since it started upon lifting, very coincidental), possibly would need a diff drop (which I ordered, just to eliminate variables, but also I doubt improving CV geometry would help with this), and WARN Manual hubs not engaging (both wheels however are obviously under power, just with the driver side wheel pulling hard inboard while the passenger side stays inline).

Also... There are NO ill effects when the truck is driven in 2hi with hubs locked OR 4hi with hubs unlocked.

Cheers,
Noble

donomite49

wheel or axle bearings?

any play in the steering at all? idler arm etc?

donomite49

or upper control arm bushings?

how about ball joints?

i think maybe ball joints OR the spacers are loose since it started after you lifted.

noble

Thanks for all the responses, I'll go out tomorrow (damn snow) to check ball joint tightness as well as seating and torque of BJ Spacers, steering does seem a little looser than before lift actually, just chalked it up to tires, but I'll make a note.

Forgive my ignorance, but how would loose steering components contribute to single side tire turning inboard badly under acceleration?

Thanks yotatechers

donomite49

accelleration puts loads on components that makes them do things you might not notice
otherwise.

something is either loose or worn out.
check it out and you should find what is wrong.

brianh699

Hubs are an easy check, jack up front end. Lock the hubs and turn the wheel, the cv joint should spin. Then unlock hubs spin tire, cv shouldn't spin.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Sounds like one side of 4WD is engaged and not the other.

Put on jackstands in front. Engage 4WD. Lock hubs. Check dshaft and tires. I bet something isn't spinning when it's supposed to. My bet us your craptastic WARN hubs.

:wabbit2:

noble

Thanks for all the help yotatechers, figured it out in case you were anguishing at the state of my rig.

Bad steering components. I checked for excessive play but didn't find a whole lot, but when ahead and replaced the idler arm (also put in bronze bushings), as well as a new MOOG pitman arm, tie rods are MOOG and didn't need attention.

Welp, that fixed everything right up, the noticeable pulling is gone (on dry pavement, it's worlds better... awaiting another slick snowstorm before I make a final judgement) I am going to say I am a little surprised, with the amount of pulling, and with such little play in the steering I figured it would be more complex, but I guess we all get lucky sometimes I guess.

At least now I have money to dump into 5.29's and a rear Aussie... ZUK clear your desk