Help! Need Advice!
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Help! Need Advice!
Hi Guys, I really need some advice. I have a 1990 second generation 4runner that I purchased about a year ago from a private party in Medford. We had her a few weeks before her true problem emerged. She doesn't always want to start. So, we went through the usual suspects. First, we bought a new battery. When that failed to fix it, we changed the starter, and then the cable. Nothing works.When I turn the key it just makes a clicking noise. If I wait a while and try again it usually starts and sometimes rolling the car a few inches forward or back works too. We checked the flywheel and it looks ok too. So here is the question: is there anything else you can think of that may be causing this problem? Any advice you have is appreciated. Thank you!
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Ground issue for sure. I got off work one morning and the Runner wouldn't start. Tried to boost it - failed - replaced the starter - same thing, just a clicking. Turns out it was the battery leads. Do cheak your starter leads....
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It could be a ground issue, so make sure the engine block ground is in good condition. Also check the large wire from the battery to the starter for any corrosion around the terminals (meaning check where the actual wire enters the terminal, not where the terminal(s) bolt or connect too) and make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight, and don't put any grease on the terminals before you tighten them down. Most automotive grease is actually an insulator so having it between the terminal and the clamp is a bad idea. It's not bad to smear some around AFTER things are tight though. If you HAVE the compelling urge to grease the terminal before you install the clamp, use something like Noalox or KopperKote - available from Home Depot or your friendly neighborhood electrical outlet. (/me prefers Noalox - also good for use as anti-sieze on fasteners....)
Might be an issue with the ignition switch or starter relay too. If you apply battery voltage directly to the terminal on the starter which has the small wire connected to it and the starter does its business, the issue is with the starter relay (if you have one) or the ignition switch (if you don't have a relay). In the latter instance, installing a relay between your ignition switch and the starter is the best option.
Might be an issue with the ignition switch or starter relay too. If you apply battery voltage directly to the terminal on the starter which has the small wire connected to it and the starter does its business, the issue is with the starter relay (if you have one) or the ignition switch (if you don't have a relay). In the latter instance, installing a relay between your ignition switch and the starter is the best option.
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ummm--no doubt you've found out by now that the problem is internal starter contacts--i'm assuming after replacing all of the aforementioned parts that this is your problem--after owning six of these wonderful beasts and replacing the contacts more times than i like to think, i've learned to check them after the first click--
take a bar or even a shovel handle as long as it is 3' or better, look between the top of the right front wheel and the fender into the motor--(move the plastic curtain aside if it still exists), you should be able to see the starter --simply tap the side of the starter with your "tool" and try to start the vehicle again--i've had to smack it pretty good when out wheeling but that's usually only if you've ignored the first signs of distress--
all that to say, you have a 1 hour to 2hour fix that if done by yourself will cost you about five bucks give or take--(the actual parts that cause the problem are probably worth about fifty cents)--have fun with your new experience--
take a bar or even a shovel handle as long as it is 3' or better, look between the top of the right front wheel and the fender into the motor--(move the plastic curtain aside if it still exists), you should be able to see the starter --simply tap the side of the starter with your "tool" and try to start the vehicle again--i've had to smack it pretty good when out wheeling but that's usually only if you've ignored the first signs of distress--
all that to say, you have a 1 hour to 2hour fix that if done by yourself will cost you about five bucks give or take--(the actual parts that cause the problem are probably worth about fifty cents)--have fun with your new experience--
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Thank you
ummm--no doubt you've found out by now that the problem is internal starter contacts--i'm assuming after replacing all of the aforementioned parts that this is your problem--after owning six of these wonderful beasts and replacing the contacts more times than i like to think, i've learned to check them after the first click--
take a bar or even a shovel handle as long as it is 3' or better, look between the top of the right front wheel and the fender into the motor--(move the plastic curtain aside if it still exists), you should be able to see the starter --simply tap the side of the starter with your "tool" and try to start the vehicle again--i've had to smack it pretty good when out wheeling but that's usually only if you've ignored the first signs of distress--
all that to say, you have a 1 hour to 2hour fix that if done by yourself will cost you about five bucks give or take--(the actual parts that cause the problem are probably worth about fifty cents)--have fun with your new experience--
take a bar or even a shovel handle as long as it is 3' or better, look between the top of the right front wheel and the fender into the motor--(move the plastic curtain aside if it still exists), you should be able to see the starter --simply tap the side of the starter with your "tool" and try to start the vehicle again--i've had to smack it pretty good when out wheeling but that's usually only if you've ignored the first signs of distress--
all that to say, you have a 1 hour to 2hour fix that if done by yourself will cost you about five bucks give or take--(the actual parts that cause the problem are probably worth about fifty cents)--have fun with your new experience--
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I had a yota that had a missing tooth in the fly wheel and if the engine stop and algin the starter on that spot the started would just spin but if you rocked it back in fourth in gear it would move the fly wheel and start.It only happen every now and then maybe a rough spot on yours preventing the starter from engaging since the rocking some times helps. Just a thought.
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I had a yota that had a missing tooth in the fly wheel and if the engine stop and algin the starter on that spot the started would just spin but if you rocked it back in fourth in gear it would move the fly wheel and start.It only happen every now and then maybe a rough spot on yours preventing the starter from engaging since the rocking some times helps. Just a thought.
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Thanks to everyone for your input!
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Good thought. The click they are hearing could be the starter relay and not the starter solenoid. Starter relay contacts (as opposed to the starter solenoid contacts) could be worn and when the relay closes, the worn contacts don't make a good connection.
The first step would be to crawl under the truck, disconnect the small gauge wire that goes to the starter solenoid (it's connected to the starter solenoid with a connector that just clips on). Put the positive lead of a voltmeter on the wire that was just removed from the starter, and connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to ground.
Have somebody turn the ignition to "START" and hold it there for a few seconds. You should see approx 12V on the voltmeter. If you don't, the problem is before the starter (ignition cylinder, wires, starter relay, etc...) If you see 12V on the voltmeter, then the problem is at the starter (worn starter solenoid contacts, burnt solenoid windings, loose main power wire connection, bad ground, etc...)
At least this test is easy, it doesn't cost anything to do, and it narrows down your problem area. Start there.
The first step would be to crawl under the truck, disconnect the small gauge wire that goes to the starter solenoid (it's connected to the starter solenoid with a connector that just clips on). Put the positive lead of a voltmeter on the wire that was just removed from the starter, and connect the negative lead of the voltmeter to ground.
Have somebody turn the ignition to "START" and hold it there for a few seconds. You should see approx 12V on the voltmeter. If you don't, the problem is before the starter (ignition cylinder, wires, starter relay, etc...) If you see 12V on the voltmeter, then the problem is at the starter (worn starter solenoid contacts, burnt solenoid windings, loose main power wire connection, bad ground, etc...)
At least this test is easy, it doesn't cost anything to do, and it narrows down your problem area. Start there.
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