gsp4life

Well here's the thing - unless you know for a fact that you also set the crank gear correctly when you first set it up (it also has a timing dot), then you also need to look at the oil pump to pulley relationship.

Have you taken a look down past the belts at that yet? I'll go shine a light on mine and snap a pic if you need.

Daniel Kirkpatrick

I did and ill post pic of all marks on there latter today

Daniel Kirkpatrick

5° mark
do you have a diagram on what rockers are supost to be loose and how loose

bootscootboogie

iTrader: (1)

At TDC, standing in front of the truck, the first two rockers on your left should be loose.

There is a compression stroke and exhaust stroke. You should read this to learn more. I didn't know ANYTHING about timing or valves until I studied these and READ THEM OVER AND OVER. I recommend you check them out. You will learn a lot.

http://www.lcengineering.com/LCTechPages/ValveAdjustment.html


http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/EngineMods/TimingChain.shtml

Daniel Kirkpatrick

thanks i am getting a lot of help. From a friend who has rebuilt a toyota like mine. And is helping me sunday i got it back to were i am almost sure its set right . But i am considering removeing "what im to believe water pump houseing and oil pump not sure yet "but while i am there replace chain /and tensenors.

gsp4life

I'm camping in WV, so I'm mostly off the grid till Tues. Bootscoot's on point with the LCE link, it's the same as a Toyota manual but with some extra notes.

The cam and crank positions look good to me, you just need to check the distributor rotor position.

Daniel Kirkpatrick

Well today was the day and now its back to [square]#1 i ordered a new head loaded with valves and cam from ITM ENGINE COMPONENTS. BAD CHOICE
Becuse after installing setting timeing for the first time it started the backfireing nostart well i pulled the head today to. Check my valves becuse my engine had low then .....none compression in any of my cylinders ..#1,2,3,4

gsp4life

Even a budget head like the itm will still hold compression when new. Something either happened with the headgasket install, or your timing is still off.

Did you use a thread chaser in the head bolt holes and clean them out really well? Dirt, water, oil and metal shavings can all raise your torque readings before you've got the clamping force you need.

And I don't think it's a manufacturing flaw because even if it's badly warped or cracked, you'd still have good compression in at least one of the cylinders. That they're all low or zero is telling of a build problem.

You're going through a hell of a lot of trouble to get this back on the road and I respect that but I feel like you'd benefit from an extra set of eyes at this point.

Have you tried to reach out to a nearby yotatech member or other toyota-specific mechanic?

Daniel Kirkpatrick

That being said ,I ended up putting my old one back in the truck. It was in great shape newly , rebuilt less than. 25,000- 35,000 miles before gasket went but it is almost back on the road😊 ;stubborn oil pump seal got pinched so I have to replace that , also putting a new coil and wires. Seeing how i replaced plugs with new head gasket belts it starts now not running as rough as first start . I am happy it's getting better and running atleast

Daniel Kirkpatrick

At first it was me and a buddy both clueless then I got two guys from school to come by they are and was a Toyota owner /previous owners just like mine one is going to aai in phoenix for diesel but still better and he is helping me for practictly free thanks to him I'll be back on the road my end of the month

gsp4life

Nice work. I wasn't trying to sound condescending before, but sometimes it really helps to have someone else take a look especially if they're more experienced.

Dab a little grease or Vaseline on the oil pump o-ring and it should help it stick in the timing cover channel and be less likely to pinch again.

I hope you had the old head measured for flatness. Glad to hear it's running though.