When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am new to being a owner of a toyota and i had a blown headgasket ..so after some time, i gathered up enough money and purchased a new cylinder Head and gasket set .
This is the old cylinder head. New gasket, cleaned head . New cyllinder head on new gasket . Almost finished at this point i was saveing more money for new vacume hoses and new v belts,new throttle cable. But all this is my first rebuild , with not much knowledge on toyota or really any thing this deep in maintenance .after lots of searching and diagram after diagram .ect everything is in the right spot to my best knowledge (no leaks im getting fuel all my plugs are back were they came off of but my truck wont start it almost sounds like it is close to starting but nothing checked my plug wires and set timeing on distributor and engine at tdc any advice will help
Let's see a photo of your engine as it sits right now. In your photo, the fuel line isn't connected and you've got no exhaust manifold. I'm assuming you have it all built right, but a little more info can only help.
I actually unpluged all my vacume hoses. I am checking my timeing chain to make sure it is not stretched or broken...well im sure i figured it out my cylender head is going to have to be pulled out and set engine to btdc 0° .then i will reinstall the head i know #1 rocker is to be loose at btdc but its not so im not sure if all i need to do is unbolt cylender head . then set engine to btdc .and place head back on and try it agin. quick question do i have to buy a new gasket after pulling it backoff
As long as your air intake is disconnected it is not going to start .
Do you have everything all connected ??
Gas in the tank ?? You would not be the first one to not have enough fuel.
ECU ground on and clean and tight
distributor in correct not 180 Degrees off
A few things to look into
as i am new to haveing to work on my vehicle. I have some knowledge on a engine. alone my dad usually helps me.. but im in another state. Soo thanks for the advice and help i am sorry for the late reply here is a phone number you can text just say your from yota tech so i know who you are this way faster response and i will not sell or give your number out 6238751695
Pull the valve cover and make sure that your crank pulley notch is on the 0° oil pump mark, the cam gear for is pointing just before noon AND the distributor rotor is pointing towards #1 spark plug. If those 3 things are all correct your #1 valves will be loose and the engine will be more or less timed correctly.
Please if you have a pic of what it should look like that would help if not it ok you say oil pump mark im not sure where that is located your talking about the oil pump pulley i didn't see marks on it ..now as for the crankshaft pulley there is a small dot indented but i think i put that on the crank shaft pully wrong ..on the old one i put a straight line down the center of it incase i had to re-use it but i didnt would me not putting the sprocket back on exactlythe samr placement the old one. Was in be the problem
I can tell your heart's in the right place and you've clearly done a nice job painting and assembling your engine, but I recommend you sit down with your manual for a bit and read over the engine reassembly chapter.
Also, right here on yotatech are some very good engine rebuild threads with lots of helpful photos of the entire process. You'll almost feel like you've got a pro right next to you once you've looked through enough of them.
As to your questions, the big pulley on the front of the engine for the drive belts has a little notch in it on the first v-belt channel. That entire pulley is on the nose of the crankshaft and is sticking right out of the oil pump. There's a little plate cast onto the pump with the numbers 12,8,5,0 on it near the top of the pulley. Those are your timing marks.
The cam sproket can really only go on the cam one way, so long as the dot is pointing forward. It's very important to have the cam and crank aligned with each other cause it's an interference engine. The timing chain has a bright link on it that's meant to help you set up the mechanical timing right. I really hope you did this step...
I didn't see a bright link on my timing chain but i put my own dot with a paint marker on the chain and put it in same position it came off or close to ..but in the prosses i had a verry hard time getting timeing chain on without pulling off my oil pump housing i hope i didn't mess something else up if i completely pull head back out do i need new gasket and bolts or i can use same ones im not home now but when im back im going to drain oil agin and coolant so itd dry then ill start pulling. Back out the head ..if it helps i purchased a loaded head with camshaft in already i ledt it in same position it was in out of box directly in to my truck
It's possible to remove the timing cover without pulling the head, but you've gotta be careful not to damage the bottom of the hg, more so on the reinstall. Loosen the oil pan bolts up and then you might have to back the headbolts off a little bit - if you do this don't forget the hidden bolt under the cam gear into the top of the cover!
In front of the engine there is about inch or so and a hole . But i didnt see any thread or remember pulling one from there on the old one i remember a allen key bolt on the left side neer thermostat housing above or just about top of intake
keep in mind im not in front on my truck i have sort of a good memory
In this pic under fuel rail just past the first injectorbelow closest bolt on thurmostat houseing u can kinda see it it shine's a litle and in the front is that hole i was talking about
Last edited by Daniel Kirkpatrick; 05-11-2017 at 04:43 PM.
Reason: Misspelled
Oh yeah, the the long hex head bolt through the t-stat housing, got it. It's one of maybe 10(?) bolts holding the lower intake in. What's the problem with it?
Oh, I'm talking about the one that goes in from the top front of the head into the little oil pool for the cam gear. You can see the hole for it in the pic you just posted cause you don't have the cam in. It's usually kinda hidden and easy to forget about, but it'll crack the top of your cover when you pull it.
05-09-2017, 02:18 PM
