andlours

iTrader: (1)

Alight guys, so honestly, I'm a little ticked off and really scared. My 4Runner today decided to start having a belt slip. It's annoying and loud, but i figured i could just tighten it up and fix it all pretty simply after I got home from school. Well, on my way home from school, things got a lot worse. I started noticing that my engine temperature was increasing. When i was cruising at about 2000 rpm, something would start squeaking and my engine temp would start to skyrocket. I never let it get into the red though, because whenever i would switch into neutral or not rev too high, it would cool down. Also, my battery gauge is showing that my battery is completely charged and is maxed out at the top, when before it was only about 3/4 of the way up. I have no idea what's going on. I don't know if the two are related or not. Any help would be appreciated as i need to fix my 4Runner asap since it's my daily driver.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Might check the alternator out, could be it is on it's way out. Measure the actual voltage across the battery terminals with it running, should be in the 13-14 volt range. When the regulator starts to fail in the alt. they seem to go to full voltage or 0 volts. Could be the the higher than normal voltage is causing the gauges to read too high.
- http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/mainte...nator_brushes/

rworegon

Fan clutch frozen? A/C clutch frozen? Alternator frozen? Or is the timing belt slipping on the WP pulley not allowing the WP to operate at full efficiency thus causing the spike in temp? What speed were you doing at the 2000k rpm? Several places to look....

binky_rutledge

Sounds to me like your water pump kicked the bucket. Any coolant leaks?

smithoman

I agree, sounds like your water pump is seizing up. Unfortunately, the water pump in in behind the "false" water pump. If I recall correctly the timing belt is what turns it. You'll have to remove the front of the engine to get in there and see it. It's not that tough but definitely some wrenching.

binky_rutledge

What engine do you have andlours? I thought an '86 sr5 may have a 22re.

smithoman

Oh,that's a horse of a different color! I have a 3.slow v-6. The 22re is my favorite. With the 22re it should be really easy to find out what's squealing etc. Take off the belt and see if your water pump spins ok. And try to wiggle it to see if the bushing is going bad.

Good luck! :=)

binky_rutledge

I actually had this same problem, really bad squealing when i revved the engine. The water pump spun fine and has no play? Weird but hey, went away with a new pump. Super easy replacement too.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys, thanks for all the help/advice. So I'm pretty sure my alternator is going bad and I feel like my water pump my be going bad as well. Nonetheless, I'm gonna try to replace both this weekend. I saw that 4crawler posted a link saying that I should just repair the brushes on my alternator, do you guys recommend this, or should I just go out and buy a completely new one? Also, for the water pump, I'm in Denver and was wondering if I could somehow get a new one without having to order it (time is essential here). And it is a 22re engine. I just want to get this all fixed! Thanks again for all the help guys

binky_rutledge

I personally would do the water pump, tension the belt and go from there, keep it simple you know. I found an Aisin for cheap on Rock Auto, but you would obviously have to order and wait for delivery.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

For the water pump, they usually leak anti-freeze from the weep hole under the pulley shaft before they outright fail. So if you see signs of leaking there, then the pump is usually on it's way out.

On the alt, you could pull it and have it tested at most auto parts stores. If it is just brushes or the regulator, then that is easy to replace and you still have an OEM alt. If it is something like bearings that are gone, then a new or rebuilt one would be a good way to go.

sciroccosven

Like 4 crawler said, just pull it and get it tested at your local big box auto store. It might also help to take the vehicle there first to have your charging system evaluated.

This hasn't been mentioned but call your local scrap yard. I have personally purchased an alternator from my local salvage yard and had no trouble, particularly when it was a third of the price. I double checked and had it tested at autozone before I installed and i would recommend you do the same.

It does however sound like you have an issue with your water pump. A bad alternator simple wont cause your car to overheat. If your car starts acting really weird thats one thing. If your not getting enough voltage to you instruments and gauges they can malfunction but wont make your truck overheat.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Would help to determine if the engine is really overheating vs. having the gauge read hotter than normal, which can happen w/o having any actual overheating, e.g. the 22RE temperature overshoot issue:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...tml#Thermostat

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Ok guys, so I was frustrated before, but now I'm even more confused and frustrated. I went ahead and replaced my water pump and alternator because I had signs that both of them were going bad. I reassembled everything, after charging my battery, and the car wouldn't even turn over. No charge lights turned on the dash, and none of the cab lights worked either. The only thing that worked were the headlights. Is this just a fuse or my battery or what. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks guys!

Bassmastry101

iTrader: (1)

Did you disconnect your battery when you were doing the alternator? If you ground out the hot wire on accident then your main fuse will blow. Check the fuse box under the hood for any blown fuses.

andlours

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys first of all thanks for all the help. The 4runner's running really well now. It turns out I blew my 80 amp fusible link and my EFI fuse.

binky_rutledge

Glad to hear you got it all taken care of!

smithoman

Mick Jagger only blew a 50 amp fuse....:=)