help me pinpoint this oil leak
#1
help me pinpoint this oil leak
I first thought it was the oil pan gasket but now Im wrong. After a 30 min drive and back I went underneath the car to confirm the leak. It is leaking above the oil pan. Now I am stumped. I've changed the valve cover gasket, done the front cam seals so I don't really know what is leaking above the oil pan. I've also popped the hood to double check the valve covers but they're fine. So it looks like I am leaking oil somewhere below the right (passenger side) exhaust manifold.
Circled in red is where the oil trickles down to.
And in this picture you guys can see clearly that it is leaking from above the oil pan.
Vehicle is a '90 4runner 5spd 4x4 v6 3.0
Circled in red is where the oil trickles down to.
And in this picture you guys can see clearly that it is leaking from above the oil pan.
Vehicle is a '90 4runner 5spd 4x4 v6 3.0
#2
It's probably the A/C compressor leaking oil, by the looks of it. There's nothing else in the general vacinity that could be leaking oil right there. The front main seal maybe, but the oil would have to be making a sharp 90° right turn and then flowing down there. Which seems a little unlikely.
Here's what the FSM says about inspecting the compressor:
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...12compress.pdf
How long has it been leaking like that? Because the A/C compressor doesn't have that much oil in it. If it's been doing that for awhile now, then it is probably coming from the front main or oil pump. It doesn't really look the right color to be motor oil though, but I could be mistaken on that.
Here's what the FSM says about inspecting the compressor:
COMPRESSOR
ON–VEHICLE INSPECTION
1. INSTALL MANIFOLD GAUGE SET
(See page AC–16)
2. RUN ENGINE AT APPROX. 1,500 RPM
3. CHECK COMPRESSOR FOR FOLLOWING:
(a) High pressure gauge reading is not low and low
pressure gauge reading is not higher than normal.
(b) Metallic sound
(e) Leakage from shaft seal
If defects are found, repair the compressor.
4. CHECK MAGNETIC CLUTCH
(a) Inspect the pressure plate and the rotor for signs of
oil.
(b) Check the clutch bearings for noise and grease
leakage.
(c) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of
the stator coil between the clutch lead wire and
ground.
Standard resistance: 3.6 ± 0.2 W at 200C (680F)
If resistance value is not as specified, replace the
coil.
ON–VEHICLE INSPECTION
1. INSTALL MANIFOLD GAUGE SET
(See page AC–16)
2. RUN ENGINE AT APPROX. 1,500 RPM
3. CHECK COMPRESSOR FOR FOLLOWING:
(a) High pressure gauge reading is not low and low
pressure gauge reading is not higher than normal.
(b) Metallic sound
(e) Leakage from shaft seal
If defects are found, repair the compressor.
4. CHECK MAGNETIC CLUTCH
(a) Inspect the pressure plate and the rotor for signs of
oil.
(b) Check the clutch bearings for noise and grease
leakage.
(c) Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of
the stator coil between the clutch lead wire and
ground.
Standard resistance: 3.6 ± 0.2 W at 200C (680F)
If resistance value is not as specified, replace the
coil.
How long has it been leaking like that? Because the A/C compressor doesn't have that much oil in it. If it's been doing that for awhile now, then it is probably coming from the front main or oil pump. It doesn't really look the right color to be motor oil though, but I could be mistaken on that.
Last edited by MudHippy; 02-01-2011 at 01:54 PM.
#3
It's been leaking like that for 6+ months. I don't think it's the front main seal because I replaced that along with all the timing components not to long ago. Doesn't the oil pump sit on the opposite side of where it's leaking from?
#4
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yes! thats a good possibility. mine is leaking bad on my 92' 4Runner and will be replaced in the spring. some engines also had an inspection cover for the cam, however i dont think the 3.0L in Runners had it. i would check the power steering pump and lines. it makes it easier to do a full engine degrease to find engine leaks also, i had mine done over the fall to find out what all i needed to replace as for as seals and gaskets.
#6
I hadn't thought about the power steering pump or hydraulic lines to/from it that run right above there. That's also a strong possibility.
#7
The front main seal installs into the front of the oil pump body. The oil pump body is directly front dead center of the engine. I was thinking it could be leaking from around the body where it mates to the block, which is sealed with RTV/FIPG(there's no gasket for it). Did you notice any wear on the crankshaft where it comes into contact with the front main seal when you installed the new one? Eventually the seal will wear a groove in it, and it will start to leak. Needing sleeved to fix it.
I hadn't thought about the power steering pump or hydraulic lines to/from it that run right above there. That's also a strong possibility.
I hadn't thought about the power steering pump or hydraulic lines to/from it that run right above there. That's also a strong possibility.
No, the crankshaft was perfectly fine. When I did the front main seal, I used the seal plus I used black RTV just to be on the safe side. I inspected everything upon removal and reinstallation. Everything on the front was in perfectly good health.
I'll try and tackle this leak when I have time this weekend. I'll also check all the ps/hydraulic lines around that area.
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#8
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I can't see the pictures but i am having a similar problem, oil leaking but also coolant is leaking in same place. It is coming from passenger side somewhere above oil pan... any ideas?
#9
I was leaking power steering fluid. It was leaking from where the hose connects to the power steering reservoir. Not sure about your coolant leak, check and double check all your water lines. Drive it for 20-30 minutes to let your truck warm up, check/touch all your water hoses to see if anythings wet and go from there.
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#12
#14
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It's pretty common knowledge that ATF is the only fluid to be used in the power steering system on this generation of Toyotas.
#15
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Strange, mine has power steering fluid in it and it has for a long time, and no melt down, but believe what you want, but in my 40 some odd years as a professional mechanic I have never seen a problem with using either or and even mixing them.
#17
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Way to go...
Last edited by snobdds; 10-01-2012 at 09:43 AM. Reason: Made it more family friendly
#18
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I know it says ATF on the cap and manual. First truck whan I was 15 and Ive used both for years mixed and what not. Never had catisrophic melt down or anything of the such. Much better than no fluid! So for any noob out there dont worry you dont have to flush your system or anything crazy like that. All though you might only get 45,000 miles instead of 55,000 miles out of your pump.
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