rgnhd

Hi I'm new. I drive a 1993 toyota pickup base model with the 22-re engine and a 5 speed manual. Last night driving home I was having a hard time with my engine. it's bassically reving freely when I'm in gear. I have to accelerate really slowly that was it doesnt rev. I tried the test of getting to 20 mph and putting it in 5th and flooring it. it just reved, no lugging just reving like I was in nuetral. I guess my clutch is slipping. Do I need a new clutch? and what all would I need to do it myself? I dont have $600 to fish out to get it repaired by a shop.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

600 is the normal price around here to having it done. Sounds like your clutch is going but I would just for hopes check to see if my slave cylinder is releasing like it should. A Haynes manual will get you thru the job just fine.

To do the job right with good parts, I would expect to spend around $200 but it can be done cheaper depending on what parts you use and doing it yourself. Here is a thread that someone is going thru something similar.

Thread>>>https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...y-yota-264991/

rgnhd

Thank you. I'm a bit of a noob. How would I check my slave cylinder?

rgnhd

Also what kit would you guys recommend to go with? Any good sites?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Your slave cylinder bolts to the passenger side of the transmission and pushes the clutch fork against the throw out bearing inside the transmission - this is what engages/disengages the clutch to the flywheel. Have someone in the cab press and release the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder - the pin should actuate and the clutch fork should pivot back and forth - if this isn't happening, you should replace it (you don't need to take the tranny off to replace the slave, it's really easy).

Sometimes, seals will go out on the clutch master or slave and this happens - especially for a car that's sat for a long time with disuse - happened with the Datsun I got a few years back from the original owner...car had been sitting and seals dried up.

If you need to get a clutch, recommend getting one from Marlin, wabfab, or other sponsors here - there is a AISIN hybrid kit they all sell for about $150. You can do it if you follow the FSM, but recommend having a buddy help remove and install the tranny...it's heavy. Also recommend replacing the rear main seal while you're in there - cheap insurance.

Phil

rgnhd

Thanks. I will be checking the cylinder first and see if that's the issue. I'm hopin it is as that will save me a lot of money but it may not be. I am expecting the worse. I will change the clutch with my dad since he's done transition work before.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Cool, great to hear you have a partner on that. I've taken out/replaced the W56 transmission and transfer case twice now (once by myself....damn that was hard!).

If it's just the slave,it's easy and cheap - I think parts are less than $50 for both the slave and master (you might as well do both - don't forget you'll need to bleed them after installing).

Keep us posted.

rgnhd

Okay so I checked my slave cylinder and its not that. It seems to be functioning perfectly fine. So from what I see it's my clutch. I plan on doing this myself. This is going to be my first major car repair itself that I have ever done. Any pointers you guys can give would be great.

derockus

iTrader: (1)

Beg, borrow, steal, or rent a legit transmission jack.

rgnhd

So? Definitely do not do the swap without that? One question I had. Would I be able to get the transmission out of the car simply with just using floor jacks?

derockus

iTrader: (1)

Definitely get a tranny jack. The transmission doesn't just drop straight down, you have to pull it backwards while lowering the rear of the tranny to get the splined tranny shaft to slip out of the clutch/flywheel. A tranny jack has a large platform usually with adjustable wings on it that hold the tranny in place. You can also adjust the pitch and roll of the transmission while you're pulling it out and, even more importantly, trying to align the sucker when you are putting it back together. Trying to bench press the tranny in or out of the truck is not an easy or safe idea. I just did my clutch last summer with my dad and we rented one from the local equipment rental shop. It was ~$25/day.

Get the factory service manual from a link on YT. Might have to dig for it. Even if you get the link for a 80's 4runner or pickup you'll be OK since the 22RE and W56 tranny haven't changed.

Other tips:
-Get your flywheel resurfaced. Should be about $35-50 at a transmission shop. If you get it to them early enough most can turn it around the same day so you're not renting the jack longer than you need to.

-The top two bellhousing-to-engine block bolts are most easy to get at from inside the truck. Go through the shifter passage with a LOT of extensoins, like 30" worth. Have someone in the wheel well guiding the socket on to the bolt.

-Change the pilot bearing too. Rent a bearing puller from an autoparts store.

-Use a torque wrench! Rent one from the auto parts store if you don't have one.

-Pay close attention to the set up of the throwout bearing and spring clip when you disassemble it. We were sort of careless and when I tried to search YT for an answer I got conflicting opinions.

-PAY EVEN MORE ATTENTION to how the clutch disk comes out, there's a thick and thin side. You can reassemble backwards and you won't know you've screwed up until you try to put it in gear and it won't go.

-Like others said, doing the rear main seal is a convenient task while you're in there. Mine was barely barely weeping so we pulled it out. Then we mutilated the new one putting it in. Pulling out a new rear main seal is TOUGH so if you're going to do it, do it right the first time. After we got the second new one in it still leaked so I'm not sure we did it right then either. Doesn't matter anymore because the engine has been rebuilt. I guess my tip is; if it ain't broke....

Not a full write up but pics of my swap here

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

derockus put up some good tips. Thanks for telling how you get the top tranny bolts, I will give that a try the next time.

It probably has been done with floor jacks, but it is heavy and could come off getting your self hurt or falling and possibly damaging the tranny. You will need to do what I would say in putting the tranny in and out is by doing stair steps. Up and forward and down and back. Also you will have the transfer case attached, it gets heavy. It should have straps that you can fasten it to the jack platform.

Where you are going to be glad that you have a tranny jack is trying to get the tranny shaft into the pilot bearing.Once you get that in, for me at goes fairly quickly as you are just installing bolts.

The FSMs are getting harder to find as most were recently taken off line. They are still out there and someone who is good can probably find them easier. I am not the strongest in computers so it might not be hard for you.

I know what it is like being on a tight budget and each nickel and dime can add up, but for the $20 or so get you a Haynes Manual. I dont like Chilton at all. When I started working on cars, other then tuneups, I literally didnt know anything about cars. I am being honest, that a Haynes Manual taught me 90% of what I know about mechanicing and I just learned the rest as I got into deeper projects. What I didnt know about Toyotas I probably learned most of it here. There is tons of information here.

I have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) and it is great, but my opinion it is better for troubleshooting and someone who has more experience in mechanicing and since this is your first major repair, a Haynes will pay for it self several times over. I still use it alot and just recently had to buy another Haynes as I finally just wore my old manual out.

derockus

iTrader: (1)

Stair stepping is a great way of thinking about it. We connected a come-along to the rear axle; couple clicks on the come-along, lower tranny a 1/2", couple clicks, lower again, repeat until sweet release. Putting it back up is a more of a pain. Once you get the shaft into the pilot bearing you should be good. Use a taper or long screwdriver thru the guide holes to help align it. Once you get the bellhousing within 1/2" of the block you can usually use the mounting bolts to pull it in the last bit.

Yeah, get a Haynes even if you get an FSM too. There are FSMs here.

j2the-e

An easy way to help align it for re-assembly is to install 3-4 inch long studs in place of the tranny to engine bolts. 1 on left and 1 on right side is sufficient. Work like guide pins. And I like to have the trans in first gear so you can turn it to line up the input shaft to the disc splines

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Thanks I put a copy of the link to the FSMs on my 88 Runners first page and will start downloading some I dont have.

To avoid some stair stepping you can remove or drop the sway bar and one problem I have had is some of the bolt that connect it to the frame can break off. Depending on rust in your area yo may or may not want to do that.

Like derockus mentioned, I use the thickest and long phillip screwdrivers as guide dowel pins, but another way that I also have is I have 4 long bolts that are small enough to go thru the bolt holes that are about 5 inchs long and have nuts on them to keep them from falling out when working the tranny into place.

I switched out a tranny a few weeks ago and it has a 5th gear whine to it and just yesterday went and got another tranny and will be unloading it here soon. I am waiting for it to warm up before swapping it out. Might be awhile as I am in no hurry as it is cold but will try to take some pics when I do it.

Here are a few other things that might be good thing to take care of when tranny is out. Tranfercase seal was like $2.80 from Toyota if is leaking which is not showing but I did do show the front seals. I am going to get the seals soon and will post part numbers. Cant believe I didnt post them on my thread as it would be nice to have the part numbers available.

Link>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52013546

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Great tips on the longer bolts as guides..getting that thing to align is a real pain. First gear? Wouldn't neutral be easier to rotate the input shaft to align?

Also, getting to the bolts that mount the bellhousing to the motor at the top of the tranny is difficult...I ended up using many socket extensions and ratcheting from about three feet down the transmission where there is more room to work (helps to have a buddy get the socket on the bolts and keep it there while you crank away)

Many threads on this with pics...search "w56 swap" or similar. I have a thread on mine but am on my phone and can't find it....search my user name and "transmission" or "w56".

Good luck!

rgnhd

Thanks guys for all your help. Please any more tips keep them coming. About how long would you say it would take?

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Here are some threads that may help:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...thread-246983/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ch-kit-244450/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nt-now-241763/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pg-w56-252269/

cman1

iTrader: (1)

get it out in one day,take the flywheel in for surfacing,put it back together the next day or whenever when you get the flywheel back.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I found that resurfacing can run upward of $100, depending where you are. I bought a new SACHS flywheel from the auto store for $50 - cheaper than resurfacing.

You may want to get new flywheel bolts too - I think LCengineering and Marlin sell them - much cheaper than the dealer.

A tip for getting the flywheel bolts off and on (without spinning the wheel):
1) have an impact wrench or breaker bar!
2) use a chunk of wood (I used scrap 4x4s vertically) and rest in between the floor and the guide pins on the flywheel (put in in between so that it doesn't allow the flywheel to turn CCW when loosening, and CW when tightening.