RDubya

iTrader: (1)

Hello everyone

Pulled my truck apart for the rear cam seals and the valve covers as they are (hopefully the only) cause of an oil leak on the top end.

Everything is going back together in order, just wanted to ask some opinions on my numbers.

Most of the clearances are within spec, save a couple of the exhaust valves, mainly 1,3, 4 and 6.

On 1 and 3 the largest feeler I can get in there is the .009", .010" will not go. This means this is too tight, because it will expand when hot.

On these valves, if I am towards the top, say .011" or .013", do I really need to be concerned? I am doing this more because at high RPM's when climbing hills and stuff there is a noticeable slap/tick inside heard in the cabin, and on cold starts in the AM. Does a tight or loose valve shim cause that noise?

I have everything I need, save the replacement shims, but if I posted all of my numbers is there anyone here willing to advise me on replacements?

I have not measured any existing shims yet, just prelim measurements with the feeler

Any help is greatly appreciated!

nobrainsd

Specs on exhaust valves for the 3VZE V6 are 0.009 to 0.013 in. so the 0.009 measurement isn't actually out of spec. I have one exhaust valve that is set to just over 0.009 and while I will be sure to check it again over time I wouldn't buy a new shim to get the midrange setting. Loose valve clearances will give you a ticking sound (your fuel injectors also tick quite a bit). When I reset my valve clearances the ticking was noticeably reduced. Be sure to check the gasket at the firewall that goes around the steering column. Mine was cracked and that made the ticking of the 3VZE much more pronounced. It is an often overlooked issue that contributes to loud in the cab ticking.

If you decide to reset your valve clearances be sure to measure all of your clearances then pull the shims and measure each one. I was able to switch shims around and get most of my valve clearances in spec. I only had to buy a couple of new shims. My Toyota dealer would not pull shims from their shops shim set. I had to order the shims. The special order was long and the parts supplied were not even shims! If you want a good deal on shims, excellent turn around and a good price I recommend http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/index.html

OutlawMike

The .009 clearance is a little tight. The exhaust valves tend to move in as time goes on, so that one is at the edge of being out of tolerance. As indicated above, I would pull that shim, measure it, then go pull some shims that are at the nominal to lower part of the clearance range and see if you can find one that is a bit thinner than the one on that valve, swap the two. This worked for me also. That will move the clearance tighter on the other valve by a bit and loosen up your clearance on the .009" valve.

The ones at the top end of the range are fine. I would lean towards the fuel injectors causing most of your noise.

Mike

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

I've read just about every post I could come across on this issue, but this is the first I've read of that gasket. I looked it over and it seems fine. The slapping is really only at high RPMS when highway cruising, otherwise the truck runs just great, hoping that this would improve it slightly.

I am having a hell of a time with these pliers and tool, difficult to place it. After its compressed, I try to hold down the edge of the lifter with the tool and do I try to place the screwdriver or prying device under the silver shim or am I missing something? I'm going to at least swap a few of them if the numbers will match. I have the FSM so thus far it's helped quite a bit. We will see about the back together part.

Do new fuel injectors resolve the ticking issue? Should I be looking into replacements? I'm sure I can find some to use but any specific brands you guys have used?

Thanks again

94Yoda

you can blow them out of the buckets with compressed air and an air nozzle/gun. Just blow air the edge of the shim and they usually pop out

OutlawMike

Forget those tools, they are more hassle than they are worth. Use a 3/16" hex key to compress the buckets downward, a small flat blade screwdriver to pop the oil tension on the shim, and a wand magnet to get it out from under the cam lobe.

With the hex key, stick the short side of the key in between the outer edge of the bucket and the cast area on the camshaft. The long side of the key is now sticking straight up. Rotate the long side downward, this will push the cam bucket/spring down and allow you to pop the shim loose and then pull it out of there with the magnet.

As for the noisy injectors, mine made noise before I did my rebuild. After I had them serviced/cleaned, they made more noise. From everything I have read, they are just noisy. Not worth buying new ones.

Mike

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

well, I was about to try this method, broke off a piece of very thin aluminum left over from the casting of the head, and it slipped out from between my fingers and dropped down into the head on exhaust valve #1 and I cannot access it.

I'm afraid that will destroy the cam and head so I will be taking them off to have the valves and everything redone so I won't be adjusting these valves anytime soon.

thanks for the tips though

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

got that piece of metal out with a scope and vacuum today, so no head removal, back to priority 1 and the shims.

Are they all the same size from the factory? So if they have never been changed, theoretically, if they are the same size, I can just swap the loose ones for tight ones and be good to go. Obviously I will mic them out first, to be sure.

Can anyone verify they are all the same size?

Here are the measurements


1e .009 min
1i .010

2e .012
2i .011

3e .009 min
3i .010

4e .013
4i .012

5e .012
5i .011

6e .011
6i .009

None were out of spec on the loose range, but I figured 2 and 4 are close to loose, so I'll put them in with 1 and 3 to see what that gives me, given they are indeed all the same thickness.

TIA for any input, I'm still getting used to this 3.0, familiar with many GM engines, this is a whole different story hahaha

osamabinkeifen

only a few of my shims were close in size...so its not always as easy as just swapping the shims from a loose to a tight one....just a thought!
same here man!!! these engines are made with out the thought of easy maint!!!! chevy 350 valves just require a socket to adjust valves no damn special tools lol

OutlawMike

If any are the same thickness, it is just chance.

The shims are there to take up the manufacturing tolerances in the valve length, valve seat depth, position of the camshaft in the head, and height of the cam lobes off the center line of the cam. Tolerances move around in the manufacturing process, so, the shims are used to custom fit each bucket to each cam lobe.

The reason the clearance changes over time is that the valves move inward over time as the seats wear. The exhaust valves move faster, due to the heat they see.

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

Ok got the out of spec shims out.. toyota dealer tomorrow. Broke some plastic clips that hold injector
Comnectors on. Anyone replace those or just plug them in and hope for the best?

What is the connector that goes into the LIM on the driver's side?

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

Ok got the out of spec shims out.. toyota dealer tomorrow. Broke some plastic clips that hold injector
Comnectors on. Anyone replace those or just plug them in and hope for the best?

What is the connector that goes into the LIM on the driver's side?

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

double post sorry

So it looks like on the drivers side, there is a connector near the #4 injector that disappears into the lower intake manifold. Is this the knock sensor? Can I replace just that pigtail, or is it something that needs to be replaced as an entire sensor?

almost ready to put her back together. appreciate the help thus far!

RDubya

iTrader: (1)

ok well I took my chances and was extremely gentle with the knock sensor connectors, and so far no codes, no problems, and a large amount of the tapping sounds is gone, so I know those shims needed adjusting. Everything went together easier than it came apart, cleaned out the plenum and the EGR, topped off the coolant and she fired right up. Full tune up and front suspension work done. Now, sometime soon.. headers!!

thanks for the tips guys the air worked like a charm and got it done quickly once I had all I needed.