Nathan_F

OK here goes again. 1989 pickup 4x4 3.0 5 SPD. Fresh build has not run continuously since install . it would start but not run. Used jumper wire from FP to B started and ran. Ordered new cor and installed. Won't even start now. Can hear fuel pump run. Popped code 22 I replaced the green top temp sensor because I broke it during removal. Ouch. Single prong has not been replaced. Need direction please. Also after replacing the COR it popped code 51. 3 different descriptions for code 51. It has no A/C, I know the neutral switch works. Need direction on the closed throttle switch. Other wise the common denominator on all three code 51, is the ecm.
Have not done anything with the fuel regulator or injectors yet.

Shady Cadence

If you've seen any of my posts lately, you know.

Those ALL ground throungh the connection at the left front pillar, between the door and the fuse block. Cut off and replace the crimped on connector, re-ground it and try the truck.

If you feel like this HAS to be an expensive repair, you can send me $400.00.

Nathan_F

Thanks for the info, but I think I started over my head and don't want to spend my last dime. I'll try it and let you know.

Shady Cadence

Please do.

Nathan_F

Did what you said. Don't know the results yet. Figured out that it had jumped time. Tensioner bolt was wrong came loose. Fixing that now and hoping for the best.

Nathan_F

Got everything put back together. Starts barely runs then dies. Code 22 will run very well if I jump from FP to +b. Already replaced the cor. As far as the code 22 I replaced the green top temp sensor but not the single prong.

scope103

Can you explain what you are trying to say?

Why did you replace those parts? Did you test them? http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...98engineco.pdf If not, why not?

If it will run fine with the FP jumper, you have a problem in the VAF/COR circuit. Not "the VAF." Not "the COR." Somewhere in that whole circuit. It's easy to check; push open the vane in the VAF with your finger while key-on. If you hear the COR click, the problem is farther on. If you don't hear the COR click, use your multimeter at the COR socket to see if you're getting 12v in the right place.

I'm not able to identify the ECT by its color (if it matters, none of my four temperature sensors in the bypass have a green top, but perhaps they were colored differently in 1989.) At least by '93 (the manual page referenced) the ECT was a two-fire device. THAT is the one you should test. If it passes the test, are you going to replace it anyway? ....

Nathan_F

Code 22 is just a code that popped. Don't think one has anything to do with the other but....

What I mean by runs very well is when the jumper wire is in it runs like nothing is wrong.

Replaced temp switch because I broke it removing the engine.

Replaced COR because I think I got some bad advice. ( not from here)

scope103

Code 22 says "Open or short in engine coolant temp. sensor for 0.5 seconds or more." You you just replaced that sensor (or at least one near it). Coincidence? Maybe.

Like I said, your symptoms point to the COR/VAF circuit. So the COR "could" have been the problem. So your advice was "inadequate" rather than "bad." (if that is a difference).

You just need to get out your multimeter, and follow the diagnostics in the manual. While you might have a cluster of problems, no one of them is intractable, and you can find and fix them.

Just not by replacing parts at random.

Nathan_F

I guess there is no such thing as free education. Thanks for the info. Can you point me in the right direction for a wiring diagram that would include the VAF and COR and in between. What I have sucks and is very hard to read. Thanks again. You been on the money on everything I've done so far.

scope103

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Nathan_F

I was going thru the diagnostic steps in relation to the previous problems. I checked the temp sender 3.8k ohms @ 45 degrees.checked the VAF. Everything is acceptable except for between FC and E2 with the measuring plate open, there is an open in the circuit instead of 0 resistance. I think I know what this means, but before I do something stupid, just checking.

scope103

Yes. That's what it means. (Oh, wait. You didn't say what you thought it meant!)

FC ("fuel control") should short to ground (E2) when the vane opens. That holds the COR closed, which runs the fuel pump. So if your test is right, you've found the problem.

VAF's aren't cheap (about $800 new), so I would carefully repeat your test. (a jiggled probe can read "open.") If you get the same result, you could consider opening it up to fix it. It's a sealed unit not to be opened, but it's soon-to-be-junk to you.