roydavis

Hi guys. Long time reader, first time posting. I've searched a bunch and haven't found any threads just like my situation.

I bought a 1986 Toyota pickup, 2wd, 22R Carb'd engine for $500 with an idle problem and and an oil leak. I rebuilt the carb and checked vacuum lines, which took care of the idle issue.

The oil was leaking all over around the timing chai cover, oil pump, head area. It was a mess, so I decided to order a timing chain kit and re-do all those seals in there. I also bought a head gasket and decided to do that at the same time, not really realizing how much more involved removing the head is (have never done this type of repair before, but always wanted to learn how).

Well, I guess I rushed the chain instlation or didn't follow the instructions, I thought I had both bright chain links lined up to the dots on their respective gears, but when I got it back together it wouldn't be timed, the notch was far to the right if the timing marks.

So I took the valve cover off, and looks at the top gear, on the cam shaft, and saw that the bright link was off of the dot by about 6 links! I'm not sure how I screwed that up. I managed to get it back to the dot without removing the timing cover, but in doing so, I did something that I later learned is a no-no: I moved the cam shaft. I was following the manual, not the handy wrote up that I found later that said "do not move the cam shaft, you could bend your valves and they will collide" or something like that.

Have I totally screwed up my engine at this point? I did try to start it after that, and I think in the process of all the bad timing stuff, I burned my starter. It didn't turn over, just one long whining sound. Like the starter is seized.

So my question is: do I buy a new starter and invest another $50 in it, or have I already done so much damage that it isn't worth it anymore? In which case, I would probably try to swap in a 22RE, because I live in the mountains and the carb didn't like the hills.

You can feel free to sling some insults and call me names for getting in over my head/not paying attention, though I've already done plenty of cursing my own stupidity.

Thanks for any advice!

Roy

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

You jumped in and did something that was completely new to you so at least you tried. Give yourself some credit on that, I have not ever had to replace a starter, they are rock solid. I have had to change the contacts and plunger in them but other then that not many problems out of the starter itself. You can pull the starter and with jumper cables and a battery do a check to see it is working. Some part stores can check the starter for you as well if you want to see if the starter is extending the starter gear.

On the timing chain, if you had the dots, bright link, and Top Dead Center all correct, and you just rotated the motor one revolution, they will not be aligned correctly, will take a few revolutions for them to align again.

I would set everything to TDC and reinstall my chain and sprockets like you should and see what you get.

roydavis

Thanks for your reply! I'll get everything lined back up and test the starter this weekend. I just didn't know if anyone had any insight on whether I'd bent valves by messing with the cam shaft. I turned it counter clockwise at one point and it clicked. But I guess I won't know until I try it all again. Thanks!

Obmi

Mine only lined up every 2 or 4 turns of the main crank shaft. Then I turned it over by hand a few times to make sure Noting what hitting.

When your links were not matching up did you turn it a few more times to make sure it was not just on a out of sink turn? Crank it by hand and see what happens.

also did you use the jumper before you tried to time it?

roydavis

What do you mean, use the jumper?

I guess I should have rotated the engine around a couple times. I assumed when I saw the link off its notch that I screwed something up. At this point, it seems like I probably need to go in and re-check things regardless. But it is good to know know that the links only line up every few revolutions! That will help. Thanks!

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I too am thinking it takes like 4 revolutions to get the bright links and dots to match back up again. The jumper is what you use on a fuel injected motor. On a carb motor as you mentioned, I think you have to disconnect a vacuum line but am not sure on that since I have not timed a carbed motor in a long time.

I have seen on here where some say the valves and pistons will collide with each other if the chain breaks or similar and others say they wont collide. You will see this called an Interference or Non Interference motor depending on if the piston and valves collide.

I had a motor on and engine stand and without the chain on, I set the valves to different positions and then turned the crankshaft trying to see if the valves and pistons would collide and could not make it happen. In my opinion these are Non Interference motors.

Here is the jumper for getting codes and timing but only applies to fuel injected motors. If your truck was made in late 86, it is an 87 model.
How to get Check Engine Codes. I just put this up for others. Applies to 87 and up. 86 and older is the bottom picture. TE1/E1


The Diagnostic port for the 85-86 is on the Drivers side inner fender and is nothing the same as the 87 and up. Here is T1 and E1 jumped. The codes and engine flashes are the same as the rest of the trucks on the dash.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

This will help you on installing the distributor.

A Timing Video I like Better. Set Crankshaft pulley to 5 degrees.
Timing Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9qEQM...ature=youtu.be



Easy way to install distributor on Youtube.

roydavis

Thanks! That is promising, hopefully I haven't done permanent damage and I just need to re-time and replace the starter. I'm pretty sure it's burned, I've heard that sound before. And I cranked harder and longer than I should have, even though I knew better.

I'll follow that video when I go to install the distributor.

Thanks again!

Obmi

I took a long walk this morning and thought about this. I think I have an answer. Look at the link below.

22RE Identification

you will some pistons go above the block and some cylinder head have domed head spaces. ( My old head had the domes)
So if he had the domed head and regular pistons or Turbo pistons are dished deeper for lower compression. I bet it would not hit the valves. But Im just guessing here.