andy4x4

1987 pickup, what is going to happen then you pull the lever past low beam? what does it test? i have been trying to fix my high beam, my lows work fine and when i put it to brights they go out, i can hear the relay clicking and i did a new on too, but it did not fix it. when i pull back on the lever lights go out and high beam indicator come on in the dash, i have cleaned all the contact point and im lost i have tried every thing i could think off, besides buying new parts, i have replaced the lights to see it that fix it but no, any help i will take, thank you.

Inu

Pulling back is flash to pass. Forward is high beams.
This might also help
http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eadlight_Combo

andy4x4

i look through it but it does not really help me at all

stinkfoot

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../4lighting.pdf

I would check the ground on the headlamps first and work backwards toward the switch. If you've got a power probe, it's really useful for problems like this. You can apply power to the lamps themselves, or apply a ground to check those items out.

Just trace back through it.

andy4x4

alright i will look at all my grounds and let you know whats up with it thanks

RAD4Runner

1987 22RE-liable?

Dimmer or flash contacts provide ground to Pin2 of headlight connector. Find out where you lose ground while in High Beam...

Schematic and how to test if dimmer flash contacts are providing ground to high beam filament:


Put in high beam.
positive probe to batt +
Negative probe to Red wire with yellow stripe or Pin 2 of each headlight connector.
You should read 12V.
If no 12V above, move black probe to pin 12 (HF) and pin 5 (FL) of dimmer switch.
If you read 12V, inspect R-Y wire.

If you do not read 12V, contacts may be bad.

Continue measuring toward ground inside right fender until you read 12V. Point above where you start reading 12V is defective.

pcola

j had the same problem on my 88 pickup. the blue lamp u light up but my headlamps would die! after spending a lot of $ i didnt need to, o still had no high beams then DING DING SING..... i took apart the steering column again and seen a small white/clear boc covering up the contact for H?B so after 10cent finger nail file i vcleaned off all the rust and wallah problem solved....hope this helps and good luck

andy4x4

ok so i went and check it out i have no voltage at r-y when on high beam, but i have 12v r-g on low beam so i have a open some were, and i ideas were to look. and another question if i pull the headlight relay should i still get 12v at the 2 10 amp fuse? it does not look like i should but i have 12v there when its out.

RAD4Runner

Good job. Let's not throw money and parts into a problem , unless we're certain it will solve the problem. Like I mentioned in my headlight post in my build-thread, contacts could get oxidized/pitted.

Exactly what I said ^^. You have an open somewhere between Pin 2 of bulb, R-Y wire, contact and eventually the ground point inside right fender.

After cleaning contacts, verify with resistance/voltage readings that cleaning was effective.

Do not mess with the relay or fuses. You already know you have power that works for low beam there.
See the schematic and my post ^^

andy4x4

i check out ever place i could think of, i went from light pig tail to relay, then i checked from switch to pig tail and i did not find any opens, any ideas on what to do next?

RAD4Runner

Did you check continuity between

Pin 12 (HF, R-W wire) and 13 (White Wire), while dimmer is in flash mode?
Pin 5 (HF, R-Y wire) and 13 (White Wire), while dimmer is in high beam mode?

Simple resistance check may not suffice, because resistance changes with heat that depends on amount of current passing through the contacts.

NOTE: careful because you have power on...
Another check you could do is dimmer in high beam mode. Don't worry, this test simply bypasses high beam contacts.
Jump pin 5 (R-Y) to pin 13 (W) of dimmer. If this turns on your highs, then you know your high beam contacts are bad.

H4 conversion harness (search forum or 4Crawler's site) or my mod will help extend life of dimmer switch contacts for reasons already discussed in my post.

andy4x4

i have continuity between pin 12 and 13, and 5 and 13, i jumped them at 5 and 13 and still no lights.

RAD4Runner

You have continuity from pin 13 to fender ground?

andy4x4

yes i do

RAD4Runner

Darn, now I don't know where else to look

ehenson99

You probably need to clean the contacts on the switch. I had this problem and fixed it about a week ago on my rig. My low beams worked but when you pushed the lever forward the lights would go out. But if you pulled the lever back the high beams would work. I pulled out the lever and cleaned the contacts with some sandpaper and it works great now.

RAD4Runner

Quite possible. To verify this before disassembling,
Turn on lights in low beam to verify circuit works.
Put in high beam. No light?
Use multi-meter in Volts DC mode
1) Red probe to pin 2 of bulb (R-Y wire), and black probe to chassis ground. You get 12V? If you have 12V,
2) Move red probe to pin 5 of dimmer switch (this is the other end of R-Y wire). You should also get 12V. IF you do not get 12V here, R-Y has open.

(1) and (2) above means that your high beam contacts of your dimmer switch are not completing circuit to ground

Verify further. Still in high beam mode, jump pin 5 of dimmer switch to ground. If lights come on, you have verified that high beam contacts are indeed bad/dirty/corroded.

This could be caused by poor design of the headlight system explained in my sig.