bryan89

ok. just got the 4runner i bought sight unseen from colorado. started going through it, and its everything that the owner said it was. i am really pleased. the only things that did not work in the interior were the cigarette lighter and horn, which i fixed.

As for the engine/trans. it seems strong but i still have to go through it just for my own sanity.

anyways, i did a quick leak test with the garden hose. there were two leaks. one around the driver window chanel molding. ordered both from toyota.

other was at the hard top seal at the cab. odd i thought. never hear of these things going bad. took the covers off the bolts (yes they are all still there) and NOT ONE BOLT WAS THERE!!!

the bolts that hold the hard top on the sides are there i assume cause the top is firmly mounted, but the ones around the cab are gone.

Question (and i did search for this already) what size are they? are they all the same length except for the window switch bolt on the drivers side?

i think my fsm copy eluded to the fact that they are all the same because of the same part number, but just wanted to be sure.
thanks
b

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Take out one of your other bolts on the side and match it. All the same on every one I've owned.

Fink

Bingo.

Fink

92 TOY

bingo bingo
my son's top was held on by , i believe, 6 bolts....maybe less......took a bolt to LOWES and matched them up and got all brand new....no clue what size, but easy to remedy.

bryan89

sweet. i planned on a trip to lowes or the fastener center, but just wanted to make sure they are all the same. cool thanks guys.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

they are all the same length. When you take the top off for the summer, and if you thread the bolts back in, make sure you remove the window switch under that bolt, as your bolt will be too long and break it (it's attached internally with 2 screws).

The bolt size is 1.25 metric I believe (I re threaded all the holes this summer when I took it off).

I too have a leak atop the cab. I'd tried weather strip from the auto store....nope. The OEM seal is no longer available at Toyotapartszone....anyone have a good recommendation on how to best seal it (I plan to take it off every summer)?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Phil.....

HOw are you, bud? Well, my top has been off over 100 times and no leaks, thank goodness. However, my buddy had an issue and decided to replace his falling apart shell-to-cab section of seal... He went to Vern's Camper Shells in CA and they found him PLENTY of scrap stuff in their yard. He cut the old section out(CAREFULLY and CLEANLY) and cut the replacement section to match with X-acto blade, sealed them together with some rubber sealant, in place, held it in place with something(can't remember...I think he said he placed something against it at an angle to keep it in place) and it hasn't leaked in 4 years. He told me, "DON"T use RTV.... it gets sticky when heated up. You have to use a GUN(???) with rubber sealant."

Maybe that will help? Sorry if not, hahaha.

richf

I just got done getting new seals for my doors and door windows from the dealership on my 4runner. I didn't check on the seal for the top but you may want to check with them first I bet they have it. Also the prices weren't that bad at all.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Chef - maybe I'll give it another go - could have been just badly seated - my bolts weren't all in as straight as they should have been - hence my re threading project

The part number is 65888-89102 Weatehrstrip, Cover ($30.05 at the dealer)

I'm just a cheap ass!

bryan89

Philbert,
is that the part number for the seal that goes from the b pillar across the roof and down the other b pillar? for $30 bucks i would replace that right now. especially since i spent 100 per side for the window tracks at my dealer just yesterday.

btw, according to my 1988 fsm, the part number for the bolts is 90119-08171.
the more info the better.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hey Bryan

Yes, that's the one. The side seals for the long side of the bottom are
65807-89101
and
65808-89101

Each is $57.60 (!)

I may just do that after all....

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Sizes below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/4R_TechI...opInstallation

bryan89

thanks for the info 4crawler.
is that a typo or is there really one bolt that is 15mm long? i could understand if one was longer, (the bolt for the window switch).

anyway, philbert,
went to the local toyota dealer to pick up my window tracks and priced the seal part number you posted. it was right, and it was ONLY $19!!!!

mine looks "squished" cause the top isnt on right. it would probably be fine, but for $19 i couldnt resist. it should be here in a couple days.
thanks guys.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Nope, no typo and to confirm that I just pulled out that bolt and measured it before replying and it is indeed that long, maybe 16mm depending on whether you measure to the end of the threads or the very tip of the bolt.

And note that putting too long a bolt in that hole will ruin the cover top switch.

bryan89

cool. dually noted on the switch destruction.
appreciate all the help guys.

bryan89

so i went to toyota on friday afternoon and ordered my cap seal. like i said it was only like $20. anyways, parts guy calls me up today and says that it has been discontinued.

told him to search dealerships and find me one if he can.
we will see what comes up.

RatLabGuy

To be honest, you may or may not even need a new seal.
Part of the problem here is the way the PO (or somebody) put the top back on.
I've found that by far, the best way to get a good seal, is to first set the top on, and then do the vertical bolts over the cab before the others.
Why? Because when you tighten down those bolts, it draws the top in really tight against the cabin.
If you look at the holes in the top that the other bolts thread through, they are bigger than the M8 bolt shank. So if you just drop it down and then thread those down, it's very possible/easy for them to not really be completely lined up - leaving a gap at the front.

And re: the longer bolt 4Crawler mentioned - that is very odd. For years, I've just been using any ol' bolt (taken from the top) in any other spot, never had a problem. As far as I can tell all mine are the same... ? For years, once the bolts get questionable from threading/unthreading so many times (I'm probably in teh hundreds too), I just hit a junkyard and get a new handful...

Drunner

Or just buy a soft top. That is what I am saving up for right now.
softopper.com
killertoytops.com

bryan89

ratlabguy,
i agree. i may not need a new seal. my only fear is that i know the top has been on like that for at least three months. (thats how long the po had it and did not take the top off. but he kept it in a garage from what i understand)
so its not his fault by any means. but my worry is that it has been sitting there crimped up in the wrong position for so long that it might be useless. i just wanted to have the spare ready just in case. cause if i take it off and its ruined im pretty screwed.
especially since i dont have a soft top yet. which i am currently working on a used canback.
this is going to be my daily driver so it cant leak.