Golden cam lobe and 30# in cylinder 3
11-08-2014, 04:51 PM
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Golden cam lobe and 30# in cylinder 3
Hi guys,
I took a gamble and gave a guy a few grand for a 1993 4wd pickup 3vze with 206,000 miles. Frame, body, and trans are in incredible shape.
... engine has a misfire and runs rich. Pulled wires off distributor and idle failed to drop on #3/ less valve noise on #3 through valve cover with stethoscope.
Plugs old, but unremarkable on all cylinders except #3 which was totally fouled by gunk and oil. O2 sensor fouled and PCV valve totally clogged (original?). I replaced O2 sensor with a new denso i got for $40 and it actually ran better/ could go 60mph in 5th gear up a steep hill.
Pressures are about 130# on all cylinders except #3, which was at 30# (I checked 4 times.) Crap.
After tearing down the upper parts. I found that all valve lash clearances are out of spec (too tight) ... and with #3 exhaust I cant even get the smallest feeler gauge in between the puck and the lobe (always open). The cam lobe on #3 intake is gold in color and not shinny silver like the rest.
Here's the question. Is it worth it to buy a bunch of pucks and reassemble with in spec clearances with hope that will fix or is the exhaust valve in #3 FUBAR 100% no questions asked?
(HG recall was done at the Bend,OR Toyota 85,000 miles ago and all other maintenance was done and documented at Wade Bryant Auto in Bend, OR thereafter. (... I'm finding alot of loose bolts and rounded bolt heads/ missing and broken stuff as I continue the teardown process)
If the valve is toast, I'm going to replace the motor.
I've never worked on car motors before, but I used to be a Navy mechanic and have worked on/ rebuilt anything Steam, gas, or diesel propulsion related on ships. The guy at Oregon Engine Rebuilders thinks I'm an idiot for trying an engine swap without being a 3vze expert and is sure I will waste my money. Any input on shops in Bend, Oregon for a rebuild? Looks like Enginebuilders in Tigard Oregon has the best track record on this forum, but they apparently only offer kits and heads as of this date?
Thanks in advance. This is probably the best online forum for anything information related, and I've learned a bunch reading through all this stuff.
Dave G.
I took a gamble and gave a guy a few grand for a 1993 4wd pickup 3vze with 206,000 miles. Frame, body, and trans are in incredible shape.
... engine has a misfire and runs rich. Pulled wires off distributor and idle failed to drop on #3/ less valve noise on #3 through valve cover with stethoscope.
Plugs old, but unremarkable on all cylinders except #3 which was totally fouled by gunk and oil. O2 sensor fouled and PCV valve totally clogged (original?). I replaced O2 sensor with a new denso i got for $40 and it actually ran better/ could go 60mph in 5th gear up a steep hill.
Pressures are about 130# on all cylinders except #3, which was at 30# (I checked 4 times.) Crap.
After tearing down the upper parts. I found that all valve lash clearances are out of spec (too tight) ... and with #3 exhaust I cant even get the smallest feeler gauge in between the puck and the lobe (always open). The cam lobe on #3 intake is gold in color and not shinny silver like the rest.
Here's the question. Is it worth it to buy a bunch of pucks and reassemble with in spec clearances with hope that will fix or is the exhaust valve in #3 FUBAR 100% no questions asked?
(HG recall was done at the Bend,OR Toyota 85,000 miles ago and all other maintenance was done and documented at Wade Bryant Auto in Bend, OR thereafter. (... I'm finding alot of loose bolts and rounded bolt heads/ missing and broken stuff as I continue the teardown process)
If the valve is toast, I'm going to replace the motor.
I've never worked on car motors before, but I used to be a Navy mechanic and have worked on/ rebuilt anything Steam, gas, or diesel propulsion related on ships. The guy at Oregon Engine Rebuilders thinks I'm an idiot for trying an engine swap without being a 3vze expert and is sure I will waste my money. Any input on shops in Bend, Oregon for a rebuild? Looks like Enginebuilders in Tigard Oregon has the best track record on this forum, but they apparently only offer kits and heads as of this date?
Thanks in advance. This is probably the best online forum for anything information related, and I've learned a bunch reading through all this stuff.
Dave G.
11-08-2014, 06:41 PM
#2
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It is near certain that the valve with no clearance cannot be returned to proper condition without grinding the valve. That being said,.....
You have little to lose by restoring reasonable clearance to the offending valve and retesting that cylinders compression.
If the compression comes up well, I'd go buy a lotto ticket, if I were you.
You have little to lose by restoring reasonable clearance to the offending valve and retesting that cylinders compression.
If the compression comes up well, I'd go buy a lotto ticket, if I were you.
11-10-2014, 07:05 AM
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Got the puck out with chopped up paint stirrer and the bayonet from a russian SKS. Clearance was so tight I couldn't get the SST to work. Had to depress the valve with the cam lobe, shove the paint stirrer piece between the bucket and the shaft, then pry the puck out with the bayonet (nothing else in the garage would give me leverage.)
Filled the cylinder with air with no shim in place. Leaks right out the exhaust port. Pulling the heads off tomorrow.
Filled the cylinder with air with no shim in place. Leaks right out the exhaust port. Pulling the heads off tomorrow.
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