2012MongolRally

My teammate and I think that keeping the lift on the truck may not be the best of ideas for the CG of our truck, specifically when we are driving through the Pamir Highway and the Himalayas. Although the Pamir is not really a highway, its like a bunch of sink holes that are called potholes haha, and for that matter I think part of it is the old Silk Road. The tires being used on the truck are going to be 31s instead of 33s (what originally came with the truck).

I know I am looking at:
New shocks= $250ish
Adjusters for the torsion bar = ? (Im still looking at the moment)
Leaf springs = ? (Will the blocks possibly damaged the springs?)

Can someone give me a number about how much money I am looking at removing the 3 inch lift? Thanks

Those are all the questions I can think of now. Let me know your thoughts. I have a lot of new photos that I need to upload to photobucket to post, but the truck drivetrain is looking great now The suspension and idler arm the things left on the list. Check out the build thread for more details.

Picture A


Picture B


Picture C


Picture D - Driver side Torsion Bar adjusted - Will these things snap off if I start dis-assembly?


Picture E - Passenger Side Torsion Bar


Picture F - For some reason I think taking this body lift off my be more of pain


Picture G


Picture H - How much do new U-bolts go for?

SARtruck

Looks like the rear axle's rubber bumpstop is missing in photo B, get at least a pair of stock replacements.

Photo D: Yes, in regards to torsion adjusters breaking, but they are relatively cheap, I think the last pair I bought were less than $20. Spray PB or other penetrating oil everywhere, first, before you break the old adjusters off.

Try Googling stock replacement spring U-bolts, 93 Toyota 4x4 pickup for prices or just call your local spring shop. Probably sub $50 for all four.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I'd be afraid anything on that truck would fail from all the rust.

Suspension is the least of your worries from those pics.

:wabbit2:

SARtruck

Rust? You call that rust? I haven't lived in the rust belt since the early seventies, but try checking the rust on a '53 Willys pickup in 1980. We had to cut or torch every bolt to dismantle it. The owner sandblasted frame and axles, etc., dropped in a SBC, and painted it all hunter green. Looked good.

This Toy looks like it mostly suffers from surface rust on the frame and axle housing, OP only needs to get another 10K miles out of it, new owner will be thrilled to have a vehicle, rusty or not.

I don't see what the big issue is...please clue me in. Do 'yota frames break in half or what?

Thanks!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Pictures B, F and G clearly show more than "surface" rust.

I bet the frame around the rear spring hangers is rusted out completely.

:wabbit2:

SARtruck

What makes you think frame by hangers is suspect? What is your solution to your hypothesis? The OP needs to ship that truck before too long, or throw in the towel on the whole shebang.

My BIL buys rusty vehicles for little in the Midwest that look way worse than this truck; he drives them for a couple years on his 120 mile commute, then gets another when repairs become necessary.

Please define the term "surface" as it applies to your life experiences. You obviously have more experience with rust bucket Toys than I.

Thanks!

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I've seen dozens of Toyotas with little to no rust anywhere on them with rusted out rear hangers. Saw one just last week. Alabama truck, never seen snow or salt and the rear hangers were rusted out bad. My bet is a truck with that much rust has issues all over it where the factory metal and welds are gone as far as reliable strength and are either eaten away or separated layers waiting to catastrophically fail. Driving in the US is one thing where help is a phone call away. Driving in Mongolia or wherever is totally another.

Personally, I wouldn't drive that truck period, but that's me personal opinion.
Professionally, it needs a LOT of work to be race worthy and I wish him luck.

:wabbit2:

2012MongolRally

Thanks for the advice guys. So here the list I am looking at for the suspension build or possibly chop job for this charity chariot:
- Idler Arm = $34.00 or just the bushings $4.00
- Bump Stops for Leaf Springs = $20 (for polyurethane, have you guys ever seen any advantage to poly - http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...s-p-27318.html) or $6.39 (http://www.carbodyparts.net/1993-toy...e1299116r.html)
- New Leafs ??? Or should I not worry about it?
- New Bilstein shocks = $80.95 each so $320 for all four (http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...0A3387096.aspx)
- New Torsion Adjusters = 10 or 20ish I'm having a tough time finding the price on these bolts when I google "1993 Toyota Pickup Torsion Adjuster Bolt Replacement (Or something along those lines)" I did find this good link though https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fusion-231288/

Btw, SAtruck, you said it won't be a problem with them breaking off, good. But when you have seen these bolts seize is it a drilling-out-the-bolt job that I am looking at?

Thanks

2012MongolRally

I appreciate your rust concerns, and I was concerned about them too when I saw the truck. This truck will certainly handle potholes and rough terrain better than most of the economy cars that are 1.3L or less engine size and have minimal to little ground clearance. Haha, two years ago a team took a beaten and abused Ice Cream Truck through the route we are taking through the "stans", unfortunately, their radiator literally fell out somewhere in Tajikistan and the race was done for them. Now that was the final straw that nuked their former panel van from seeing the finish line but I understand their ride was horrible from the get-go when a shocks and suspension were all but toast from Kazakhstan, and that was halfway through the trip

I have faith in the rusty yota, and I think she will not only make it to the finish line I think she will make a better vehicle for the demands of a rural tribesman in Mongolia than most economy cars/ the horseback travels that he already uses to get to town. Thanks guys

SARtruck

I wonder how Afghan warlords combat rust issues.

And what about Colombians, etc.?

SARtruck

IIRC, my entire "idler arm assembly" was replaced under warranty, what is the issues with your truck's steering, exactly?

I'd go for the cheaper ones, but how about rubber, what do they cost? Cheap ones seem rather short, but would offer a little jounce control compared to bare metal.

Why go new? Is there any evidence of a spring cracking or ? Used or a rebuild at a spring shop cheaper than buying new.

[/QUOTE]- New Bilstein shocks = $80.95 each so $320 for all four (http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...0A3387096.aspx)[/QUOTE]

Try lee@raceshock.com or (602)493-3700 for a better price. Tell him "NoBrakes" sent you.

Just call your local Toyota dealer, they usually stock these parts.

Mine broke right off torque was applied with a wrench. YMMV.

Good luck!