92Yoda

First off, I havent been to the website since I rebuilt my rear axle from here about a year ago, and I love the new layout haha I noticed it right away.
Anyways, I'm in the process of doing a front end brake job but im also doing the bearings. When I went and bought the bearings I noticed only the outers came with races, am i supposed to keep the old inners? my old inners are alright but I just found it odd that the inner bearings didn't come with races, anybody have an explanation for this? pics available upon request, thanks

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Go back and buy the inner's

'85 Yota

At oreillys they sold the bearings and races seperate. Get new inner races!

coopster

Always replace the races when replacing bearings. And you should replace both bearings (inner and outer) when doing either one. I also go ahead and do both sides (driver and pass'gr side). If you've ever had a bearing fail going down the road you will know of what I speak.

Team420

weird. Never bought bearings that didnt come with the races.... Yeah.... get the races, no sense replacing the bearings if youre not gonna do the races too....

jerry507

Same as everyone else, when I replaced both inner and outer front wheel bearings I bought races and bearings separately. It cost more but hell if I want to take that crap apart again soon.

And when you pound the races in, make sure you use brass thingies (I can't remember what they're called now, punches?) to pound them in!

The rear wheel bearings are one piece sealed bearings though, so when you're searching you might see some of those too. Don't get confused.

Samson3113

Hi Folks

I have a 1986 Toyota 4wd sr5 and I wanted to ask if anyone has any tips for keeping the master cylinder from going dry after removing the fitting from the caliper. Most calipers (cars) you can hang the caliper with the brake line. In my truck the flexible brake line feeds into a metal line that screws into the caliper. Any tricks on how to keep the brake fluid from leaking out after disconnecting it from the caliper ?
Thanks
Jim

Polaris2012

Plug it. I have used a small bolt wrap a little Teflon around it and push it in there.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I have a pair of needle nose vice grips with smooth jaws .

I clamp on to the rubber line.

Then most times till I need to replace pads it is time to replace the rubber hose as well.

Works great in those times one needs to pull things apart.

Cyberman

The next time you separate that hard line, put a notch in the bracket that holds it so the hard line can slip out. Then you can pull the clip, and hang the caliper up without having to take the fitting off.

Samson3113

Thanks for the tips Polaris2012, wyoming9 and Cyberman

All good ones that I did not think of

Polaris2012: I should have tried a bolt. I tried to use a cut off golf tee, but did not hold

wyoming9: will have to try it. I have some smooth face clamps

Cyberman: I was not sure what you meant by "..put a notch in the bracket.." can you explain ?

Thanks

Cyberman

There is a "bracket" where the rubber hose meets the hard line, and is secured with a thin metal clip. The hose and metal line go through this "bracket". If you cut a notch out of this thin piece of metal, as wide as the hard line, you can remove the thin clip, and the entire assembly can be moved, without disconnecting the brake line.

I found the video that I first saw it from. It shows on a solid axle, but will work on IFS too.

[YOUTUBE]I4ToprG-_Uc[/YOUTUBE]

Samson3113

Hi Cyberman

that is pretty slick. the video was awesome. thanks for taking the time to post it. appreciate your time

Tugboat

I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearings on my ifs 87 4runner. I ordered the Trail Gear kit with races, bearings seal etc. I followed the fsm and very useful video posted here http://eturkov.blogspot.com/2010/10/...ner-front.html but am still having some problems.


When I put everything together and put the wheels back on the spindles neither one would seat properly or turn without a large amount of effort.


I took them apart again and can't find a problem. The races seem to be seated properly, everything looks good except I had a hell of a time tapping the inner seals in over the inner bearings.


I've searched extensively and am totally stuck, any suggestions greatly apprecaited

osv

what was the problem with the inner seal? it went on crooked?

how did you pound the races in? did you use the old race?

not clear what "neither one would seat properly" means... if you overtighten the nut, the wheel will be difficult to turn.

Tugboat

The inner seals weren't sitting flush with the face of the wheel and the inner bearings weren't spinning freely.

I tapped the races in with a brass drift. Is using the old race to hammer in the new ones a good technique? The brass drift was kind of a PITA.

Last night I took the seals and bearings out and repacked everything with grease again. I managed to destroy the old seals pulling them out so I picked up some new ones from NAPA. They went in a lot easier then the old ones and everything seems to be fine now.

I placed a 2x4 on top of the inner seals and pounded them in with a hammer, it worked nicely.

osv

that all sounds good... brass is softer than steel, but be careful about brass particles falling down into the hub, and lodging in the grease or something.

no matter what you use to start the race in the hub, it's always difficult to get it started straight... I usually have the old race on top of the new race, then tap the old race down in... brass drift to knock it back out again.

glad to hear it's back together... set the bearing nut per the fsm spec.

Tugboat

That sounds like a good idea, I'll have to try it next time.

Thanks for your help.