Donsway

Just did a rebuild, can be found here...

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...-story-213037/

Got moved there before I could find out a few things. Hell even before I got done posting it???

How many town miles should I have on it before I go on a 12 hour oneway interstate trip? Is 500 about right?

Everything is doing good with the engine, but has a very small almost a miss but not, just when I am at a certain spot on the fuel pedal. Like when I am at 55-60 in 5th gear. (2100-2500 RPMs) So small that you have to really feel to make sure it is not just the road. Would I be right in thinking that it is the TPS? I have no check eng. lights coming on.

Thanks agian for all the help I found on this site while doing this rebuild.

Donsway

Been doing some more driving and so far am loving the power I have in 5th gear. Can't wait to get some more miles on it so I can really try it out.

Wish the mods would have left my first post here, had all the good stuff in it like a first start video. Can I ask why it was moved to a place where no one goes? It was not a buildup thread and does not fit where it is now.

yayfortrees

It might be a TPS adjustment, you will have to check the resistance per FSM to find out. If it's not that, don't forget to check the other related sensors.

snobdds

I must say, what a good job on your rebuild. I always like seeing someone with some ambition.

As far as your miss, i would check your cap, rotor (make sure it's OEM, 22RE's like OEM ignition stuff) and plug wires. The rest I think you've covered in your rebuild.

Let us know what you find.

Teuf

I had the same subtle miss, it was plug wires.

Donsway

Thanks guys.

I will check the TPS, just hate to touch the high dollar thing.

The cap, rotor, and wires are new but not OEM. Will look into those but feel it is a fuel deal. Seems like it acts worse after I do something like pass and wind the engine up a little. Then when I get back down to speed it bumps alittle then clears up mostly. I think I remember it doing this before the rebuild. Had a Ford do almost the same thing so getting the two mixed up when trying to think back.

By the way, am up to 270 miles so far....

flyingbrass

Good job, particularly with your pics in the other thread.

Years ago I had a stumble/cutout/hiccup in 4th at times. Cruising or mild load at 50ish miles per hour. My truck is carbed, for what it's worth. The plug wires were aftermarket replacements. New OEM wires and cap cleared it up, never to return. I'm not saying this is your problem, just x2ing the previous blessing for using good quality ignition parts.

Donsway

I've always got the best ignition parts the part stores had. Never the cheap line but know those Toyota parts are the . So how much does the dealer get for these parts? It's like they start rubbing their hands together everytime I walk in there.

Donsway

I have drove it like I stole it this whole time. They do say to drive it like you are going too. Just been keeping it under 3200-4000 RPMs. Never staying at the same RPM for long. I am pretty sure the cam is good by now, and seems to have more power than at first. Geuss that is due to the rings seating up some.

After 100 or so more miles (will make it 500) will change the oil, set the rockers, and take a short trip to get some freeway miles on it. So I need to ask one more time... Will I be OK driving at say 70MPH for four hours one way with fuel-pee stops? That is a long time at the same RPM.

Teuf

Beat that thing like a mule, go for it.

yayfortrees

I say go for it. If you feel like it, every now and then slow down a bit or speed up a bit just to change the RPMs. Even this is probably not necessary.

Gnarly4X, you're too conservative! Modern(ish) alloys don't require the same break in periods that metals used in much older motors required.

1990yota-pickup

do it, all you can do is rebuild it again

Teuf

I would rather drive 500 miles all at once, than do it in town and around /stop and go. I think the engine would prefer that, just be aware.

Donsway

Dang, all day I wondered why you would not do it Gnarly. Was thinking it would still be under 3000 RPMs how could it hurt... Glad to have a big OK from you guys.

Today I got a new TPS from O'Reilly. It is a BWD, part # EC3150 made in Japan. Cost me $161.28 after Tax. Came with a lifetime warranty. Called the dealer and they wanted $203. and a 2 day wait. Parts plus: $158. 3-4 day wait. Buy Lo: $190. next day. Autozone: 149.99 2 day wait.

O'Reily could get it by 2:00 today and wanted $164.99 but after telling the guy it was $149.99 at the Zone I got it for that price. "Low price guaranteed"

OK on to gettin it on....

Used the never let me down so far Haynes repair manual.





Old and new. Just don't see all the gold I thought would be in there for the price.



There is a close up of the brushes, I bent a set up so you could see how they are made. They are what moves with the throttle. THEY ARE NOT MADE TO BE TAKIN APART TO BE CLEANED! As I had hoped. The plate is soldered in a way you have to break it out.



That is the plate it rotates on. There was a very small amount of black buildup on both the brushes, and the plate.



TB side.



The tool I used so I would not have to take anything else off. Worked good after getting the lower screw started.



Time to set that touchy sucker.



With the 0.022 in. feeler gauge I got it to set at 1.175 k ohms. All other tests came into spec resistances.

So far so good, did not do the bucking thing anymore on the short drive I took. Still think I may get a new O2 sensor since it is 25 years old and after lots of reading just sounds like a good thing to do.

Maybe I will get time to put the other 100 miles on needed to get to 500 tomorrow. That way I can do another oil change and a rocker adjustment. Should I hit those head bolts one more time? Did them after the first drive, and they all turned about 1/4 turn.