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Forward shift to top shift

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Old 03-22-2009, 08:02 PM
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Forward shift to top shift

I'm trying to make double cases out of two forward shift cases, without buying any parts aside from the doubler adapter. Does anybody have any experience doing this. I want to cut the forward shift rods down and reweld the notches on, to make it top shift. The thing I'm unsure of is, the 2wd/4wd rod has a stop on it. By cutting the rod down I would have to cut off this stop. I don't know what would happen with out this stop. Any help is great. Or if you have a top shift 2wd/4wd shift rod you want to sell, I'll take it.
Old 03-26-2009, 06:33 PM
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Nobody has anything to say about this?
I got my doubler adapter, it has room for the stop to remain intact and use the notch off the end. I will be doing it this weekend and will post up my results. I think it would be nice to use the abundant forward shift for both boxes. Saving top shift boxes for the transmissions that need them.
Old 03-26-2009, 06:38 PM
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Read the Marlin website and Pirate4x4. This is documented both places.

Old 03-26-2009, 09:56 PM
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this might help;

Transfer Case Info
Trail-Gears TC Videos:
t-case: http://www.trail-gear.com/videos/toy-tcase.wmv
Dual case: http://www.trail-gear.com/videos/toydualcase.wmv

Transmission and other Transfer case info: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/faq/parts/

Convert Forward Shift Case to Top Shift Case
from this Thread

Originally Posted by nevada
*this is for a dual toyota t-case set-up.*
i know the shop is a mess.... so dont say anything

OK, since i had 2 extra forward cases, i decided i HAD to make them work for my marlin crawler. i know this isnt NEW. and using a forward shift case for the RANGE box has been done. but i needed it to work for the rear 4WD case.(id heard it couldnt be done:shaking: )

im not going to go through the teardown. hopefully if you are attempting this conversion, you already know how to tear it down.
*im going to refer to the 4L-4H rail as LEFT*
*the 2WD-4H as RIGHT*
1)get the SPARE shift fork from the DONOR case. and cut the lug off, using a die grinder. be sure not to cut it too close.

2) install the rails into the RANGE portion of the rear case. after the rails are in, put the shift detents back in place. this will help insure correct placement. and carefully measure for the roll pin. its VERY important to get it right. measure 5X cut once. leave the LEFT rail in 4wd(toward the front) and shift the RIGHT rail into 4wd also.(to the front.) mark where the new hole has to be, for the LUG on the right rail. i tried to match the lug(NOT THE HOLE) to the other fork as best i could.
do NOT attempt to drill the rail. it is hardened steel, and you will never get it. even if you could, i doubt it would be straight. i took mine to a local machine shop(Machine Service inc.)

3) grab the ends u cut off, and remove the gates. set them aside, for now.

**note** this pic is out of sequence. when removing the gates, be sure to remove the entire portion off the 2WD gate. this prevents the shifter from falling into "space" when in 4L. i had to go back, and add this piece.

4) attach lug to the right rail, and the fork to the left rail, and the you need to clearance the INSIDE edge of each lug. you need a "flat" section to attach the gates to. since the lugs are angled, it wont be square. i ground them down close, and just clamped to the THICKER side. and filled in the small gap.

5) once you're certain you know where theyre going. carefully weld the gate onto the lugs. use the SHORT gate on the LEFT(with FORK) rail. and the LONG gate on the RIGHT rail. *see my note above.*

theres alot of test fitting. i dont remember when i did it. but at some point, after u instal the gates, you need to reinstall the main shaft, and most of the gears, and 2WD shift fork, and slide the outer portion of the t-case in place. be sure everything shifts good. then measure where to cut the STICK OUT, from the rails. they can only stick out about 1/4" when shifted into 4H. otherwise they will hit the 4L rail in the range box.
this pic also thems them after they were shortened.

6)put everything together for another test fit. you now need your gates to line up. if they dont, but are close, you can use a file to get them exact. mine were dead on, and no adjustments were needed. again, note the lug i added after the fact.

one thing i want to mention, as it messed with me a few times. when these rails are out, they can be put in 180* out of phase. it will work properly, but your shift detents will not work correctly. be sure on the final install, that the SINGLE detent notch is to the INSIDE.
make sure everything shifts correctly and smoothly. i used a bit of 90w to ease the install.
and finally, a forward shift tcase, converted to a top shift, ready to be installed.

hopefully this will help others who dont have a top shift case, but want a dual case set-up.
Old 03-27-2009, 05:12 AM
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Sweet, Thanks! I searched and searched over @ pirate4x4 and came up with nothing about using one for the rear box. I will still let you guys know how it goes.
Old 03-27-2009, 06:10 AM
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If you need a shifter for your modified case, I got one laying around, cheap. You can just pick it up since your a couple miles away.
Old 03-29-2009, 05:03 PM
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The mod went well. I did things a little different. Instead of drilling a hole in the 2h/4h rail I welded the fork directly to the rail. This had to be done with the rail installed in the empty low range box, so it can't be removed. unless you cut the rail in two pieces. No big deal, though, it was just easier that way for me. The other difference was that I left the stop lug on the 2h/4h rail intact. Hope this helps.
Old 04-01-2009, 05:30 AM
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I just wanted to add that I didn't need to use a speedo cable extension. I don't know if others have experienced this, but, I was glad that I didn't have to buy one. The stock cable was just rerouted slightly.
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