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With an 87' Toyota pick up on my hands what should I do first?
It had been sitting for years but I over looked it and all the parts are there.
Here is what I know
1987 Toyota Pickup
5-speed
4x4
22r Engine.
These are what I plan to do right off the bat.
Change oil and filter. If at all I'd like to use Royal Purple. I've been satisfied with their products.
Change Diff Fluid. Again if at all possible I'd like to use Royal Purple.
Change T- Case oil. Royal Purple again,
Then once this is all done I'll drive it around some. Eventually I plan to buy a rebuild kit from RockAuto...(not sure what to buy). Probably this model here. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=503&jpid=31
I do have access to a compressor, air tools, welding tools, and even a pit to do under ground work. After I rebuild I plan to change the leaf springs, ubolts, etc. If it isnt to hard Id like to change the t case to an atlas? maybe ditch the IFS and go to a SAS.
Any tips would be helpful and considerably noted. I'll have to take some pictures of the shop.
I would add to the list the cooling system flush fill flush fill flush fill. Then change the brake fluid if all dark and nasty. I have found out that royal purple, although a great oil, its not necessarily needed on the 22r-(e) engines. They like the dino oil better imo.
changing the brake fluid is a good idea, do the clutch fluid and probably all of the rubber brake lines as well.
this isn't a good time to make a decision about royal purple, because you have no idea what kind of shape the truck is in... i wouldn't even do the trans/axle fluids until you get it running, and see what you are up against.
22r means that it's carbed, not fuel injected, and the carb could be full of varnish and junk... same with the fuel tank and fuel supply system.
changing the brake fluid is a good idea, do the clutch fluid and probably all of the rubber brake lines as well.
this isn't a good time to make a decision about royal purple, because you have no idea what kind of shape the truck is in... i wouldn't even do the trans/axle fluids until you get it running, and see what you are up against.
22r means that it's carbed, not fuel injected, and the carb could be full of varnish and junk... same with the fuel tank and fuel supply system.
etc...
Thanks for mentioning that it was carb. I do know that I'm trying to decide what exactly is wrong with it. Ill take pictures of it.
Here is what I know. When the engine is cold. It won't start. Get the engine running good, and it will start just fine.
I could rebuild the carb...or just toss it and go by an AM one instead. Not sure what else to do at this point. I also have to buy a battery. Now I havent tried putting gasoline down the carb, but may try that too. We shall see.
I assume since it has a carb, it has a choke. If that isn't closing, it won't start when cold, at least not without starting fluid or something. Check and make sure the choke is activating properly.
As it has been sitting for a long time, my first concern would be getting the fuel system from the tank to the motor cleaned. Old fuel gets nasty. Most of my projects in my link and others I have done have usually started with the fuel tank in all of my builds.
Another thing is if the motor has been sitting for a long period of time, as tempting as it may be to want to see how it runs, I would take a breaker bar and try and see if the motor will turn over freely. Pull the plugs and then try. When a motor sits to long the rings will sieze to the walls. If not froze to bad, the starter can brak that corrosion and will usually result in a broken ring. I have seen twice where a broken ring will get in between the piston and cylinder wall and gouge the wall.
If you have not cranked on it yet, pull the plugs and fill with Marvel Mystery Oil and let them start soaking and breaking up the corrosion. In a few instances I have seen a motor froze and doing the MM oil and a motor run with no issues.
Edited: I see where you have already cranked on it but for future reference. If you end up pulling the head in the near future, you will see a rust ring where the pistons rings were at.
As it has been sitting for a long time, my first concern would be getting the fuel system from the tank to the motor cleaned. Old fuel gets nasty. Most of my projects in my link and others I have done have usually started with the fuel tank in all of my builds.
Another thing is if the motor has been sitting for a long period of time, as tempting as it may be to want to see how it runs, I would take a breaker bar and try and see if the motor will turn over freely. Pull the plugs and then try. When a motor sits to long the rings will sieze to the walls. If not froze to bad, the starter can brak that corrosion and will usually result in a broken ring. I have seen twice where a broken ring will get in between the piston and cylinder wall and gouge the wall.
If you have not cranked on it yet, pull the plugs and fill with Marvel Mystery Oil and let them start soaking and breaking up the corrosion. In a few instances I have seen a motor froze and doing the MM oil and a motor run with no issues.
Edited: I see where you have already cranked on it but for future reference. If you end up pulling the head in the near future, you will see a rust ring where the pistons rings were at.
Let me start by clearing things up.
I don't quite own the Toyota. I say it's on my hands because I'm trying to buy it. His price is $1000 not going any lower then that.
Matt's a good friend takes me hunting and what not. His FIL aka Father in Law...owns a very reputable car shop here in Middle Georgia.
Anyway...the truck has been sitting for a long time now. We are going to clean it out tomorrow. Do the upholstry and head liners. Matt said the last time he had it running it had a carb issue. Almost like it was a sensor.
Now here is some background on me...I am a certified ASE mechanic.(electronics). I do have some mechanical experience, and don't mind to tinker.
I'll take plenty of pictures though. And I thought about placing and inline fuel filter
If I am seeing the part right, that is your mechanical fuel pump. The bed looks to be in descent shape as most are rusted out in the wheel well area. Silver paint was not the best in the 80s for durability. I got a hood looking almost the same as yours.
Ah, so I guess the mechanical fuel pump needs to be replace. Doesn't look to hard to fix.
That right there needs to be replaced.
here is the other things that iI found.
Heat nor A/C work
Radio doesnt work
Need Paint job...may have that for less then $200???
Edit: also I almost forget when tank is < then half tank; the fuel gauge on the instrument cluster goes to empty.
Also forget to mention what I did today. installed a new battery, cleaned at all the wasp next, aired tires, etc.
Starting the vehicle it wouldnt start. I did pull the spark plugs and got some MM oil, place it down into the engine. It still wouldnt start. Well I poured maybe 3 TBSP of gas into the Carb. One thing I noticed was when looking straight down the left flap didn't move but the right did. Not sure if that has anything to do with it or not Any way it cranked right on up. I let it run the 2 year old gas out and poured fresh gas in along with more MM oil.
It has 131,841 on the motor. I say not bad for the motor. Any idea how to fix these issues?
X2 on what terrys87 said about fuel tank and lines. I inherited a truck that had sat for a long time with fuel in it. I had to do a lot of fuel tank cleaning and I lined it with a product to prevent further rust/corrosion. This was all after it ruined my brand new fuel pump and filter. Definitely a good idea to look into it. Luckily my injectors were alright.
With fuel tank out I was able to clean and clear out my fuel lines with an air compressor. Lots of gunk came out.. 2300 miles later all is good
X2 on what terrys87 said about fuel tank and lines. I inherited a truck that had sat for a long time with fuel in it. I had to do a lot of fuel tank cleaning and I lined it with a product to prevent further rust/corrosion. This was all after it ruined my brand new fuel pump and filter. Definitely a good idea to look into it. Luckily my injectors were alright.
With fuel tank out I was able to clean and clear out my fuel lines with an air compressor. Lots of gunk came out.. 2300 miles later all is good
What did you like it with? I poured Marvels Mystery Oil in it yesterday. Other then that nothing.
I used a product called "Kreem" it worked awesome!! Tho you can't just pore it in the tank. Tank has to be out of truck to use this stuff. Here's a link to more info http://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html
Napa carries it. And most part stores carry similar products. Don't know much about the others. But the Kreem worked great.
I used a product called "Kreem" it worked awesome!! Tho you can't just pore it in the tank. Tank has to be out of truck to use this stuff. Here's a link to more info http://www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html
Napa carries it. And most part stores carry similar products. Don't know much about the others. But the Kreem worked great.
I picked some up. Now to drop the tank. Do u know where I can find a repair manual for this 87? I cant find one
Good deal.
I've never purchased a FSM (factory service manual) I just have the regular old Haynes manual. It's a lot less in depth than the FSM but it's got plenty of info. Works great for me. Should be able to get one at any parts store.
If you're looking for an FSM I'm sure someone on here will point you in the right direction.
With an 87' Toyota pick up on my hands what should I do first?
It had been sitting for years but I over looked it and all the parts are there.
Here is what I know
1987 Toyota Pickup
5-speed
4x4
22r Engine.
These are what I plan to do right off the bat.
Change oil and filter. If at all I'd like to use Royal Purple. I've been satisfied with their products.
Change Diff Fluid. Again if at all possible I'd like to use Royal Purple.
Change T- Case oil. Royal Purple again,
Then once this is all done I'll drive it around some. Eventually I plan to buy a rebuild kit from RockAuto...(not sure what to buy). Probably this model here. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...id=503&jpid=31
I do have access to a compressor, air tools, welding tools, and even a pit to do under ground work. After I rebuild I plan to change the leaf springs, ubolts, etc. If it isnt to hard Id like to change the t case to an atlas? maybe ditch the IFS and go to a SAS.
Any tips would be helpful and considerably noted. I'll have to take some pictures of the shop.
Thanks
Yota.Jay
Engnbldr.com has some very decent priced rebuild kits, I'm sure they're better than rockAuto for sure. Look up his website and give him a call, he's in Oregon and ships free in 48 states. Hope this helps ya dude.
I would go with something ALOT better than rockauto for sure, it may sound cheap as far as price but I would go with Engnbldr.com kit if I was doing one or one from LCE, in my honest opinion.
I know you can find a Haynes manual on Ebay for about 25$, I would get one before I did anything else to it, they do really help. IMHO, the chlton manual doesn't go into it like the Haynes but the haynes are really good I think.
05-21-2015, 10:30 AM
I'm trying to decide what exactly is wrong with it. Ill take pictures of it. 
