factory air for OBA
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
factory air for OBA
Since my 4runner has factory air and I'm planning on eliminating it I was thinking of using the factory compressor as an OBA setup, I think it'll be neat to just push the existing a/c button to fire up the compressor.
Anyone done this with the factory comp? I know I'll need a pre-oiler but that shouldn't be an issue.
The othe option is eliminating the a/c completely and going the York route but I don't think Budbuilt is making the plates yet.
Thanks lads!
Anyone done this with the factory comp? I know I'll need a pre-oiler but that shouldn't be an issue.
The othe option is eliminating the a/c completely and going the York route but I don't think Budbuilt is making the plates yet.
Thanks lads!
#3
Registered User
I've done it, probably as clean as possibly. Very easy to do. The only thing I haven't put on yet is the preoiler, but I've found that simply adding a few drops of oil down the intake tube is doing just fine. I'll add one eventually though.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post50927524
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116.../#post50927524
#4
I did this when I upgraded to a 3.4. Truck didn't have AC, so it seemed a good use for it. Work's great.
Run compressor oil through the AC, and keep it under 130 PSI and you'll have no issues.
Air Filter>Line Oiler>Inlet
Outlet>Oil Stripper>Air Block>Regulator/Safty Valve.
Simple as that.
Run compressor oil through the AC, and keep it under 130 PSI and you'll have no issues.
Air Filter>Line Oiler>Inlet
Outlet>Oil Stripper>Air Block>Regulator/Safty Valve.
Simple as that.
Last edited by allnmstkn313; 02-11-2009 at 12:16 PM.
#5
Since my 4runner has factory air and I'm planning on eliminating it I was thinking of using the factory compressor as an OBA setup, I think it'll be neat to just push the existing a/c button to fire up the compressor.
Anyone done this with the factory comp? I know I'll need a pre-oiler but that shouldn't be an issue.
The othe option is eliminating the a/c completely and going the York route but I don't think Budbuilt is making the plates yet.
Thanks lads!
Anyone done this with the factory comp? I know I'll need a pre-oiler but that shouldn't be an issue.
The othe option is eliminating the a/c completely and going the York route but I don't think Budbuilt is making the plates yet.
Thanks lads!
York OBA- https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...mplete-155162/
The compressor, lines, fittings, tank, valves cost a total of $300 I think. The 3 gal tank fits nicely above the rear axle of an unlifted 4Runner/ truck. Pumps up my tires from 15 to 30 in maybe 20 seconds if you blip the throttle.
Last edited by Matt16; 02-11-2009 at 12:21 PM.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
The motor is the 22re and I really like the look at that York but am trying to do as much as possible for as little as possible. I can start pricing the Yorks out at the bone yard and see what I can come up with. Maybe I can grab a tank to use for air off of one of the big trucks out there and make that work.
I just figured since the conpressor is already in there and I won't be using it very much that it'd do ok.
I just figured since the conpressor is already in there and I won't be using it very much that it'd do ok.
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Matt I read through your York mod again and have a question. Since you've done this and you know more than I do about wires and such do you think the little switch in the dash for the factory A/C will work to send power to the York? If I go the York route I'd like to be able to use that switch instead of trying to wire in another one........ yup I'm a wire idiot.
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#8
Registered User
The factory air conditioner compressor will work just fine, if you already have one. The York is adaptable and puts out probably twice what an AC compressor will. This is very useful if you're using small reserve tanks. IIRC, York's pulled from Volvo's have oil bath cases, so they don't need an inline oiler like converted AC units do.
Big rig air tanks will work great. They're usually about 2-3 gallons each. The more reserve you have, the more stable your output pressure will be, and the fewer times the clutch will cycle.
Big rig air tanks will work great. They're usually about 2-3 gallons each. The more reserve you have, the more stable your output pressure will be, and the fewer times the clutch will cycle.
#10
ive been running my stock a/c pump for a compressor for 3 yrs now, just let it idle to build up pressure in the tank. and they are pretty tough, i have never oiled mine, and havent killed it yet, but i have a few spares layin around.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
The factory air conditioner compressor will work just fine, if you already have one. The York is adaptable and puts out probably twice what an AC compressor will. This is very useful if you're using small reserve tanks. IIRC, York's pulled from Volvo's have oil bath cases, so they don't need an inline oiler like converted AC units do.
Big rig air tanks will work great. They're usually about 2-3 gallons each. The more reserve you have, the more stable your output pressure will be, and the fewer times the clutch will cycle.
Big rig air tanks will work great. They're usually about 2-3 gallons each. The more reserve you have, the more stable your output pressure will be, and the fewer times the clutch will cycle.
The reason I'm trying to figure out if the factory one will work is because this build is going to be done on a very strict budget. I decided to keep my truck instead of selling it to fund the 4runnner so I've got to make my money go as far as I can. Something like this OBA thing can be done on the cheap if I can use a lot of what I already have.
Thanks again.
#12
A 3 gallon tank will be plenty for the York or the OEM AC pump. If you were running an electric, where you'd want more like a 5-8 gallon tank.
I think you could wire a switch to the AC, but I really don't know much about AC. I would think that there would be one single strand wire going into the pump, in which case its merely a matter of hooking that wire to the York (also one wire). I'd check that the pump only engages when the AC button in on and that it disengages when its off.
The easiest way to figure out wiring is with a "test light". They're cheap (<$5) and it shows which wires are receiving power without actually cutting the wire. You simply poke the smallest of holes in the wire with the pointy end and if power's going through the light lights up.
Poke the AC wire with the AC off and the light will remain off, poke it with the AC is on and the light will glow.
I think you could wire a switch to the AC, but I really don't know much about AC. I would think that there would be one single strand wire going into the pump, in which case its merely a matter of hooking that wire to the York (also one wire). I'd check that the pump only engages when the AC button in on and that it disengages when its off.
The easiest way to figure out wiring is with a "test light". They're cheap (<$5) and it shows which wires are receiving power without actually cutting the wire. You simply poke the smallest of holes in the wire with the pointy end and if power's going through the light lights up.
Poke the AC wire with the AC off and the light will remain off, poke it with the AC is on and the light will glow.
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