mcm375

Toyota, Pickup, 1989. 22RE.

So, after solving my oiling issue and making sure all my grounds are good, I spent a few minutes yesterday (before it started raining.. EFF) trying to get the motor to burst into life.

So far not so good.

Motor cranks but doesn't make so much of a hint of starting up. Have searched a few other threads and checked/tried what has been found.

Things I have checked and noticed thus far:

* Checked resistances of all spark plug wires, all good.
* Checked for spark with a spare plug on two of the wires, saw spark when cranking.
* Checked for fuel in rail, cracked open the banjo bolt on the cold start inj, fuel leaks out. Fuel pump and filter definitely working.
* Tried jumpering Fp and E on the diagnostics panel to eliminate any cause by the AFM.
* Checked and adjusted (as close as I could at midnight) the TPS, however I have heard that this can be unplugged and the motor should still start... so not sure if this could even be an issue.

General comments:

* Oil pressure remains good, no leaks. Happy about that after the scare yesterday.
* I had to stuff and feed ALL of the cables/connectors through the upper intake manifold curve/gap, wonder if something critical might have been damaged here...
* After trying to start for a few seconds, can smell fuel. Very easy to smell at the tailpipe, leading me to believe the injectors are working fine. If at least one was working fine + the corresponding spark and lets say hypothetically all of the other injectors/sparks were bad, wouldn't it at least burble/splutter? I am getting NOTHING in terms of combustion.
* If I crack the throttle open with my foot while starting, I hear a very very very faint knocking like sound.

Things I have not done but wonder if I should?

* Check voltage across all of the ECM connections listed in the FSM for various sensors and devices that should show voltage with ign on. Mostly not looking forward to trying to get at the injector lines since they are harder than to get to.
* Check for continuity on all wires in the engine bay. Expect this could take a frickin long time; hope they all terminate at one pin or another in the ECM?

What else can be easily checked w/o ripping the %^&* upper intake plenum/manifold off?

Does anyone have a wiring harness kit for this damn truck that does NOT route the bloody wires through the middle of the engine thus requiring removal of the plenum?? Who the hell at Toyota thought that was a clever idea.... I WANT TO KNOW.

It's raining right now so I have plenty of time to think about it... looking for some pro advice on commonly overlooked items or common issues.

mcm375

Forgot to mention that I have code 51 on the ECU. Thought this has to do with the TPS so why I checked everything on it.

abecedarian

Have you verified the distributor / rotor is installed properly, with the rotor pointing at the proper cylinder in the firing order?

pntbol11

iTrader: (1)

yea, Ima throw a strong second to abe's comment. I just had the guy who rebuilt my longblock put the distributor in. If its off I won't start.

TOYOTA 1

^ that would be my first question

that light knocking sound you here at wot is the afm flap bouncing back and forth.

mcm375

Will double check but thought I followed the FSM thoroughly when putting it on.

My recollection is, set motor at 5deg BTDC #1 compression stroke, orient the rotor so that the dot on the helical gear points upwards, insert into hole which will rotate the rotor to the left, check the rotor air gap contacts are right next to each other then pop the cap on.

Now that I've cranked the motor a lot... how do I figure out if #1 is on compression stroke w/o removing the valve cover? I don't have a scope to look at the valves from the spark plug hole.

mcm375

Guess I might as well rip the timing cover off.. along with all of the CRAP on top of it... barr. Gotta do it to re-set valve lash after warming the thing up anyway.

OutlawMike

My trick for getting #1 on the compression stroke is to remove the spark plug and push a rubber hose into the threaded hole in the head. I had a piece of fuel line that just pushed in there (not all the way in, just into the threads). I then put my thumb over the tube and have my buddy turn the motor by hand. When air forces it's way past your thumb, you are on the compression stroke.

When by yourself you can take a whole paper towel and use a corner of it to plug the hose, when the towel is pushed out, you are on the compression stroke. Then, just get it to TDC.

Good Luck

weaselman

put the timing mark at 0 on the crank puelly. (make sure number 1 is at top of compression stroke) then pull the cap off distributor and make the rotor so it points at the #1 plug wire. then put it all back together and it should start right up. (i did this and my rebuilt motor started with the first click of the key). then get out your timing light and jump the connector and set at 5degrees BTDC.

and as from my understanding you can not acruately check codes unless the engine is idiling. anyone argue or agree with this?

mcm375

See I am such a noob I didn't think of this. Thanks man

mcm375

Okay.. I'm a bonehead. Pulled dist cap off and it was pointing at #4 when at TDC on compression of #1. Must have effed that up when assembling.

Still won't stay running though, it splutters for a second or two I can at least hear it combusting. Will not run though, just a bit of a splutter immediately on cranking... Further cranking to no avail. GRR the troubleshooting continues...

I did plug the Cold Start Injector back in, and I did again try jumpering the fuel pump but I hear nothing ? Strangely also after clearing the 51 code (I had left the AC button on all along!) and jumpering for diagnostics, I am getting NO flashes whatsoever... thought it was supposed to flash 2x per sec for "normal"?

mcm375

Think I found something... the +B terminal in the diag box only reads 0.1v with my powerprobe with ign on. I applied battery voltage to Fp and suddenly heard the pump whirring into life and the sound of fuel going through the regulator...

I am going to have the powerprobe force voltage to Fp while cranking to see if it starts...

Why would +B only show such low voltage? Isn't it supposed to carry battery voltage with ign on?

mcm375

YESSS... fired up and stayed running with voltage to Fp... but still this is forcing voltage there, it will not keep running on its own. Relay issue? AFM issue?

mcm375

And for bonehead move #2, I present a water leak... apparently I forgot this gasket but pouring through my leftover gaskets from the "complete" kit, I see nothing of this shape. Should have FIPG'd it... Hope this tube is easy to remove dont recall how its mounted on the back, these bolts look accessible.

mcm375

Turns out that flange comes down approx 1" when unbolted, enough to squeeze some RTV around the flange mating surface. The copper washer WAS there, but I guess not squished enough? Hopefully none of the RTV gets into the tube passage.. I will let it set up nice before I fire it up again. Thankfully water had drained down from that area after I shut it down so it was relatively dry when I unbolted it, no need to drain coolant.

Still have the fuel pump issue... hmm

mcm375

Just checked the circuit opening relay, checks out per this guide:



So, it's not THAT

deserthound

This fitting uses a rubber O ring that should have been in the gasket kit.

mcm375

That's interesting because I thought it had rubber to begin with but none of the rings in the kit were the right size, there was however a copper washer that perfectly fit into the recessed area so I used that.

Guess that explains things.

Hope the RTV keeps the water in?????!!!!

Re: electrical problem; checked the EFI relay and its working fine also. Starting to run out of things to check :|

Quick Q, on the 89 4x4 pickup, is the circuit opening relay at the back top of the relay area above the fuses in the driver side kick panel? That's the one I checked. It's slightly further recessed than the others in the same area and is the closest to the firewall side.

mcm375

LOL I'm such a MORON....

The 15A EFI fuse was blown.

By applying battery voltage to the Fp jumper, I was effectively BRIDGING the 15A fuse by providing power on the other side!! FARKING HELL.

Oh well, lesson learned.

mcm375

Battle over... Ran it for about 10 miles breaking in the rings with some WOT from 30-50 in 3rd. All is good! Now for an oil change, another 500 miles of break in, then synthetic oil.